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Oregon EXL chain

Lightning Performance

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I think it has to do with the wider kerf and maybe less flexible/more stable chain.
Deeper drivers seems to be the unsung song in my book as to 404 making a straighter cut. Then again most of what I spew out don't mean chit in most peoples book, meh...
 
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Philbert

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The question for me would be:
Does full house last longer than full comp on a bucking or milling saw?
No experience with this, so my opinion is worth what you paid for it.
I would expect the cut to be smoother, due to multiple teeth, but slower since chip clearing would be reduced significantly. Cutter edge life would be hard to predict.

Philbert
 

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No experience with this, so my opinion is worth what you paid for it.
I would expect the cut to be smoother, due to multiple teeth, but slower since chip clearing would be reduced significantly. Cutter edge life would be hard to predict.

Philbert
Forget chip clearance on the mill. It does not matter imo.
 

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Forget chip clearance on the mill. It does not matter imo.
Skip square chisel made bigger chips, ran faster and cleared chips better than ripping chain for me. Comp ripping chain seemed to foot, but I couldn't see in there.IMG_20160929_112222.jpg
This was three feet cut and a 42" bar with my ms-460. I'm sending chains for my 72" bar to be ground by a Simmington owner. Stoning the sides a bit, filing the gullets and setting the rakers will be mine to do. 661 will drive that long chain when required There is not much visual dif between slabs cut with ripping chain or square chisel after ten days air dry. But like most of us the faster smoother the cut the bigger my grin.
 

Semotony

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Exterior oiler or will the 661 handle that size bar when milling?
Time will tell. If you look at the Ash mid cut I got started years before finding online advise on milling. My way is to throw chips away from me which causes the oiled side of the bar to lead the way. After seeing so many approach it the other way I've done some consideration and haven't convinced me to go that route.
IMHO the oil pressured into the rail,dl's and maybe into the rivet joints has better lube than oil applied to one side near the top. To each his own.
I have a batch or three of diamond bits for the dremel. I open up the oil hole in the bar on an angle pointing the direction of chain travel. In my theory it will allow greater flo, and I have seen wood dust clogs fewer times. I've been wrong before so I'm still trying to figure a better way.
 

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Do you plan to set up the 72” bar as a dual powerhead?
No I bought a 72" dually from cannon that only cuts 60". I've already got a five foot bar that my ms-460 pulled a skip chisel around.IMG_20161014_161335.jpg
A bit slower than the 661, 10/14/2016. It was about six months later the ported cylinder 661 became mine, which comes into play as required
 

RI Chevy

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It is clearly different than the LGX chain in both looks and cutting ability. Much harder steel used in the cutters. Slightly different angles.
 

Wilhelm

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All I have right now is skidded turkey oak logs.
I might partially debark one to test the chain.

Sondre is sending me a regular EXL loop.
I am contemplating to wait a little longer so I can compare full complement to full house in the same log.

The loop looks great in person. :)
 

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Wilhelm

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They need to market Extreme EXL!!!!! Now I want a loop!!! Well, until it comes time to sharpen it
We will ask @GunTemco to adapt his grinder to be compatible with full house loops. ;)
On a serious note, this is more of a play and conversation chain, as such sharpening it when it gets dull should not be an issue - just imagine how much time goes into making a race chain.

Start breaking and spinning, or wait till I get mine into a log.

LGX is a very versatile chain, cuts well, easy to sharpen, plentiful. [emoji106]
I have worn out several Dolmar 099 and a couple Oregon LGX loops, they are my favorite chains - none ever broke on me, all ended up in the recycle bin without teeth.
They cut fast once filed/ground past the witness mark. :)
 
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