High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

Oh64 or 066?

tickbitintn

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I would love to see what the timing numbers are stock onnit
Just checked
d9d01c5f6208da3ee7dc47f4feaaea9e.jpg


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jacob j.

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So which is the better cylinder of the non decompression 066- Mahle or the thin base KS? They come around from time to time - or does it matter if porting it?

Both make a decent runner with WJ-69, WJ-48, or Bing 49 carbs and a slight ignition advance. It doesn't really matter much if you plan on porting the jug.
 

Tractorsaw1

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Thanks JJ - I’ve had a couple of the thick base cylinders - how does the WJ69 compare to the 76?
 

tickbitintn

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Wouldn't need much work... A little blend on the lowers and should be good to go!!
I measured the squish (squished some solder) before dissassbly but never measured the solder...

The .020 solder didn't touch, .030 deformed a bit so I know what range it's in....

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Cracker Boy

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This thick base/thin base, decomp/ non decomp sure has you worked up huh?
Nope not at all /Just askin tryin to learn and figure wich would be best for my shortcase buld to send for porting after i finish it / i have couple of each/ interesting thread, thanx
 
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Deets066

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Nope not at all /Just askin tryin to learn and figure wich would be best for my shortcase buld to send for porting after i finish it / i have couple of each/ interesting thread, thanx
You won't know which cylinder is the best until you put a wheel on it. All the cylinders, regardless of what they are can vary in timing. Not much rhyme or reason to it
 

Lightning Performance

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A little, can feel a couple of these with a finger nail
51ccd2116ac4bc1d55df4a9e7895373f.jpg


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I need pistons just like that one. Please PM me.


I like those, if you was to drop that jug about .030
:cool:
@Deets066 Would that make your numbers close to 98/118/80 after the upper transfer work? Nice for long bars IMO.
 

Cracker Boy

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My question was mnt answere yet either as to wich cylinder the numbers were off of thanx
 

tickbitintn

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Post#2 is production date and info thanks to @blsnelling

I'm sure this saw has never been apart so it's the original cyl.

Has a lot more run time (and abuse)on it than described...

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tickbitintn

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The price difference between an all OEM saw like that, versus one without, is gonna be a lot more than 60 bucks.

A quick shopping trip at DD's place for:
air filter and baffle that are missing,
Air filter cover that has holes drilled in it,
oem piston and bearing,
impulse and fuel line,
upper a/v mount (i think it was an am one)...
tippin the scales at 3 bills.....

thats no carb kit, gaskets, muffler cover (that has some holes drilled in the bottom) plus whatever else i'm forgetting at the moment...

what's this thing worth back together running all OEM??
 

BonScott46

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A quick shopping trip at DD's place for:
air filter and baffle that are missing,
Air filter cover that has holes drilled in it,
oem piston and bearing,
impulse and fuel line,
upper a/v mount (i think it was an am one)...
tippin the scales at 3 bills.....

thats no carb kit, gaskets, muffler cover (that has some holes drilled in the bottom) plus whatever else i'm forgetting at the moment...

what's this thing worth back together running all OEM??
6 used OEM parts with minimal damage and maybe 750 with new OEM parts IMO. You could probably get 400 for it cleaned up as is and save yourself the time. Now if you like a project it would be a fun one but the problem is you probably should not run it otherwise you won't end up selling it.
 
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