New Guy with lots of question on Farmertec 066 and 070

[DaveInGA]

Hi All,

I'm Dave from Hoschton, GA. I'm an experienced woodworker and recently purchased a Granberg chainsaw mill with all the trimmings, including chainsaw oil luber and winch. My stepson will be running it for me. He owns a Stihl 066 in good running order he inherited from his Father, who has passed.

Rather than have him wear out his Dad's chainsaw on the mill, I'm thinking of buying either a built or parts kit for either a Farmertec 066 or 070. My Dad was a mechanic and I've got extensive experience with general mechanics in and out of the Army, plus robotics mechanics background. To date, most small outdoor power engines have been pretty simple for me, but I have not ported/flowed or hotrodded any.

I'm looking to get opinions on either to buy the Farmertec 066 or 070 version. Which would be the best platform with a ripping chain and a 36 inch bar to use on a Granberg saw mill?

Secondly, I'm seeking opinions on buying the Farmertec blue or orange parts kit for less money, then upgraded it with OEM parts as needed for best performance for the application or simply buy a stock already built 066 or 070. Which has the most potential in the long run? The 066 or the 070?

I'm totally open to suggestions and input and I can afford any tools I need to properly build anything. I forgot to mention I'm own a lot of mechanics tools including a steel covered workbench in my garage.

thank you for your advice and input,

Dave

 

[huskihl]

How many hours per week will the saw be used?

 

[DaveInGA]

Not a lot, it's going to be used when we have a hardwood tree or log to turn into lumber. My biggest concern is having enough torque to make this a less strenuous job, as some of the trees are fairly large.

 

[huskihl]

The quality on the Chinese clones is a crapshoot. Might be a good one, might end up having to replace every rotating lubed part with oem.

If you're stuck on it, I have a new 660 clone with a Cross cylinder on it I'd sell. PM me if you're interested

 

[DaveInGA]

Thank you for the offer, but I'm thinking if I buy a built one, I'd rather build it myself. I'm a do it yourself kinda guy.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Thank you for the offer, but I'm thinking if I buy a built one, I'd rather build it myself. I'm a do it yourself kinda guy.

Your better off to buy a proven runs good if you never built one. I would build three at least and run them before selling one.

 

[drf256]

The China saws are a crapshoot, as stated above.

You’re looking to buy a saw that will be used for the most demanding task that could be asked of one-Milling.

I’d personally buy a good used 395 Husky and don’t look back. They are better milling saws than the 066 is, and I am a devout Stihl guy. It’s just the truth. Better oiler and outboard clutch keeps heat off the bearings and seals.

The 070/090 design is supposed to be a PITA for milling because the oil and fuel cannot be replenished mid cut without removing the saw from the wood.

“You get what you pay for” always applies. Even when we think our own superior mechanical skills will make a difference and save us money. The reason OEM parts are so much more expensive is the R&D the copy cats don’t/won’t do.

 

[MustangMike]

I'll give a differing opinion, even though I do agree with all of the above comments.

Also, if Kevin offers you a good price on the saw with a Cross top end, I would buy it. He likely acquired it at a discount that is no longer available, and I much prefer the Cross P+C.

While most of the AM kits are a quality crap shoot, the 660 bottom ends have generally held up very well. I have done a lot of milling with them, and others have put them in the hands of pros with generally good results.

I would always replace the piston pin bearing with OEM (I had an AM fail, and OEM is only $10), piston pin clips, and an OEM Elastostart pull rope.

If you use the kit P+C, I would replace the piston with a Meteor (comes w/Caber rings, as do the Cross P+Cs). Always check the bevels on the cylinders, and I would highly recommend porting it for decent performance.

Also, for a milling saw, I would keep the Exhaust port around 97. They provide plenty of power there, and it makes them easier to start, which is important when you have to re start your saw in the middle of a cut.

The chain adjusters on these saws often need some work, various solutions have worked, read the write ups.

The Asian 660s are a low cost option that will necessitate additional work on your part.

If you decide to build one, and you would like more advice, let me know. I have done several of them, and they are all still running.

 

[MustangMike]

Also, welcome to the site Dave!

 

[Stump Shot]

Thank you for the offer, but I'm thinking if I buy a built one, I'd rather build it myself. I'm a do it yourself kinda guy.

Why not buy a used saw to rebuild then?
What @drf256 said above is sound advice.

 

[MustangMike]

1) If you can find one, 2) Used saws sometime have as many (or more) problems that AM!

 

[dall]

1) If you can find one, 2) Used saws sometime have as many (or more) problems that AM!

i have no problem finding them lol
and always expect to rebuild when buying
but then you have a solid saw when done i have a 066 apart now oem and when done ill have less than 300 in

 

[Lightning Performance]

i have no problem finding them lol
and always expect to rebuild when buying
but then you have a solid saw when done i have a 066 apart now oem and when done ill have less than 300 in

When you have too many and get bored send them here

 

[Stump Shot]

When you have too many and get bored send them here

You couldn't afford the shipping. Lol

 

[Lightning Performance]

You couldn't afford the shipping. Lol

Maybe not this week but no reason to leave me out cause I'm not rolling in it. Might have more nickels next week.

 

[Stump Shot]

Maybe not this week but no reason to leave me out cause I'm not rolling in it. Might have more nickels next week.

You don't understand, let me rephrase that for clarity.
No one could afford the shipping. Lol

 

[Absolution]

i have no problem finding them lol
and always expect to rebuild when buying
but then you have a solid saw when done i have a 066 apart now oem and when done ill have less than 300 in

Man where in WV have you been finding large displacement saws. I was in Kanawha and I couldn't find any. Only thing I was finding were farm bosses that were probably hot as hell at pawn shops.

 

[dall]

Man where in WV have you been finding large displacement saws. I was in Kanawha and I couldn't find any. Only thing I was finding were farm bosses that were probably hot as hell at pawn shops.

the last 2 066 came out of pa

 

[Absolution]

I can also give my two cents on the 070's and 090's

Pros:
As far as the motor goes it's a great milling saw.
As far as clones goes it's probably also the most refined and easiest to work on.
I've ran my 090 clone with a 44" bar full comp semi chisel with little complaint.
It oils the chain great without a need of external oiler. (double edge sword)

Cons:
It's 32lbs with 25" bar
even with gov disabled it's not the fastest milling saw
It drinks bar oil (double edge sword)
pretty much limited to spur drive clutch drums unless you want to spend arm and leg. (404 is nice if you are working with dirty wood though)
outboard 070 clutch makes it a little alloying if you want to leave a bar on mill and swap to another. (pretty much impossible with 090 clutch)

Now I did have a test I wanted to try refilling the oil on the 090 but I never tried it. I thought about turning down the oiler real low and adding an external oiler. But I never did it. You can fill the gas on the 090 but not the oil while in cut. I just kept pulling the saw out to do it.


Now the 660 clone is a much more versatile saw I've used mine pretty hard and haven't had many complaints. However I feel like with longer bars and milling such as those longer than 36 it would need an external oilier. I'm going to be trying it when I go back to WV milling a pine tree and if it runs well I'm also going to try it on another maple I fell awhile back.

EDIT: The oiling thing between the 090 and 660 I feel like is a tie. You can mod the oilier on the 660 or buy a HO one. (I modded mine even with a 20"bar) But you'll drain the oil before the fuel. At the end of the day for milling the external oilier is your friend. Which you can make at home out of pvc pipe and a fitting with a little bit of hose.

If you are going to be running a 36" bar most of the time and wanted to do a clone build I would highly recommend the 660. But other's opinions on getting a for parts oem saw is also an option. But when it comes the 660 I feel if you would take Mustang Mikes advice as well as go over the build thread from A Fleet Command you will be very please. Also I would go ahead and replace the tie rod bearing with OEM just for that peace of mind.


I modded the 660 oilier cause I was use the 660 to stump with a carbide chain. Nice and Hot on bar and motor.

 

[DaveInGA]

Thank you everyone for your input so far, though I must say I'm not yet deterred on having a go with the chinese clones. The basic equation is money invested vs. amount of use. Reading through the posts, I realize I should share a lot more information, but after doing some further research and pricing new (finding used in my area looks dim, as I'm simply not seeing enough use of the larger machines any where near me to be able to find a good used one and rebuild it) Lots of smaller saws, various brands, but no, as in zero, even junkers of the larger saws. With the prices of new saws being what they are, I cannot justify purchasing one for the amount of use I'm going to be using it.

There is one fact I hadn't mentioned is I have never built a two cycle engine from parts or torn one down to rebuild it for more performance. So I'm interested in doing so. I can afford the mistakes I'd make. My inclination is to build one and use OEM parts as needed. I've seen threads with OEM parts lists. Does anyone have a good thread for the 070/090 saws they can link to I could get OEM parts numbers from?

Some more useful information:

User of the saw: My stepson James, who will be operating the mill for me, grew up with his Father (now passed) locating, cutting down and splitting firewood, as he grew up with firewood as his family's main heat source. Oak trees are plentiful in this area (just north of us and in this town are several old furniture factories now out of of business, wish they were still operating), so they often were able to scrounge up good firewood. Both he and his father were emotionally intelligent and were/are good at locating hardwood logs. He knows chainsaws, how to operate and maintain them. I watched him clean up and get operating two saws (Husky and a Stihl 66) his brother could not, who had them for 8 years after his father's death and could not get them started. He shows a high level of interest in doing the milling and has already brought in a a couple of large hardwood logs that are sitting out by my shed waiting to be milled. He is currently living with me while he goes to college to become a nurse and works part time doing handy man work, which affords him opportunities to pick up other logs occasionally.

Milling setup: I bought two of the Grandberg mills, one is the 36 max length and one is the 42" max length. Based on what he brought in, the 42" is likely to get the nod and I may have to sell off the 36." I run a business myself selling sod turf grass and I've learned when I purchase something, to go ahead and get everything you think you might need. So when I bought the mill, I bought a power sharpener, a winch, an external oiler, rails, etc. I'm reasonably sure I bought their complete setup.

Myself: I've repaired a lot of things in my lifetime, from mechanical to electronic to robotic to electrical to telephonic. I've done a lot of installation of all types of equipment. I've rebuilt truck/car front ends and brakes in my Dad's shop, tuned cars, rebuilt carburetors, restored an 86 aluminum base boat from the ground up, stripping it out and installing new wiring, aluminum decks and reworked the Mercury 75 HP two stroke. It now runs beautifully and when I get lucky enough to get enough time off from work go fishing, it's my ride on the lake. (lots of those near me) I've been a part time gunsmith for many years and work with a buddy. I do the hand fitting (including extensive and sophisticated "dremel" work, though I use a Fordham) of the parts and he does the machine work. He grew up with the lathe he has (a long bed leather belt drive Southbend) and also owns a Jet clone of a Southbend mill. He's not a machinist, but he's probably the best operator of those two machines of any machinist I've ever met. He's ridiculously good with them and can mill for me if I need milling, I'd just need the specifications. As far as assembly and using a mix of Chinese and OEM parts, I kinda figured that. When I was younger and was struggling (not so many years ago), I bought and used a lot of Harbor Freight tools, including woodworking tools. And many of them I had to take apart, clean milling "goodies" out, replace bearings with good ones, etc. to get them to the point they'd give good service. But I did that and I got the service out of them I wanted. Today, I still buy a mix of high quality tools and some cheap stuff, based on the amount of use the tool will see.

Amount of use the saw will actually see: I have a basement shop and a fairly large yard, but not a lot of places to store raw lumber while it dries. My estimates are I can store about 6 trees max at one time, so the saw will not be getting a lot of use, but when it does, it'll be busy for a day or so, then be cleaned thoroughly, lubed, put up and stored "fuel dry" in a nice case.

Based on the comments so far, I'm looking at either an 070 or a 090 in the Chinese clones. And I have another question - Why the focus on Farmatec vs. the other Chinese brands? Are they the best of the bunch?