Mine is completely out of the kit except the chain adjuster, worm gear, and gas cap.Nice job with the fuel line rigging in the 925. I Did that to get by on my echo 452 one weekend. Also on the 660s would you put the list of required parts possibly with the part numbers in list form here please? Im serously considering ordering a kit but kinda want to price it all out and way my options. I know i dont have much for stihl dealer support unless i come in with a parts list with numbers. If i heard right you use a oem pin bearing better clutch oem lines oem vent oem clips some oem carb and trigger parts chain brake spring. What else am i forgetting? Or listing wron ss required parts to make a reliable safe strong saw. I know some are switching to better top end kits some hyway some cross some meteor. The ultra cheap top end kits just dont last for me or anyone ive seen use them on saws. What say you?
And the cross mmws top end is the way to go.Nice job with the fuel line rigging in the 925. I Did that to get by on my echo 452 one weekend. Also on the 660s would you put the list of required parts possibly with the part numbers in list form here please? Im serously considering ordering a kit but kinda want to price it all out and way my options. I know i dont have much for stihl dealer support unless i come in with a parts list with numbers. If i heard right you use a oem pin bearing better clutch oem lines oem vent oem clips some oem carb and trigger parts chain brake spring. What else am i forgetting? Or listing wron ss required parts to make a reliable safe strong saw. I know some are switching to better top end kits some hyway some cross some meteor. The ultra cheap top end kits just dont last for me or anyone ive seen use them on saws. What say you?
Need to post the video of shooting the cylinder lmao.And the cross mmws top end is the way to go.
Exactly. Quality control is non existing. Unless your gonna run one of these kits alot, most the parts will be fine. Are they as good as oem? No but will they work? Yes. Your talking alot of money when you start throwing oem parts at a kit saw might as well buy a used real 660I probably agree for a better quality and performance too. But some had issues with them not being true to base/bore and snagging rings from too flat of ports. Its really a game with aftermarket stuff. Hell your kit may have had more suitable parts then the next one.
The guy above mentioned a new carb and clutch, that's what I was getting at. As for the Farmertec jugs, complete junk. The 2 I got 1) after 3 tanks had lost alot of plating already under the exhaust port and was garbage at that point 2) had a very large "ring of death " straight out of the box. I had another sent to me and I have yet to use it but it looks ok.Lemecee.....OEM trigger & choke about $15, a Hyway handle about $35, shimming the chain adjust about $5 for the brass, tweaking the carb..$0, Decomp? $10, Bar Studs $9, Chain Brake Spring...depends, some are good as they come, its a geometry thing. Have we approached Used OEM yet? As far as other AM cylinder's, they all have their statistical issues. The FT's actually run pretty well and statistically match the "other" AM cylinders in carnage creation in my experience.. A FT with a finger port will out perform any of the AM options if that is the definition of win. TO me a whole lot of energy is wasted on cookies vs. reliability and day to day useful life of these saws...
I think I'm finally getting a handle on that type of thing, plus or minus a few wrinkles in quality control where one part or another add's a challenge. Cautiously optimistic as the three built after the carnage of that one top end are STILL out in a real production environment. I've been taking the attitude that no news is good news. They all went through the evolution described in my video. Plus my Farmer Jones build in that video gets weekly use now as the season begins along side the video and project saws.
The other 4 or 5 out with a variety of other folks all seem to be surviving and have most of those updates with the exception of the trigger and choke as the first ones I had didn't have that issue, or the soft bar studs
The guy above mentioned a new carb and clutch, that's what I was getting at. As for the Farmertec jugs, complete junk. The 2 I got 1) after 3 tanks had lost alot of plating already under the exhaust port and was garbage at that point 2) had a very large "ring of death " straight out of the box. I had another sent to me and I have yet to use it but it looks ok.
I'm just sharing My experiences with others. Whether or not they want to use it or not I could care less. If I have different findings than someone else of course I will post then up, that way it's common knowledge which is why this sit is here, to share. Happy that someone has enough time to test 20 of these cause I sure don't and I'm sure everyone appreciates that.And of course if you read to the end you would realize I have gone back to FT for the clutch and the carb. AND the FT cylinders I've had vary. The 56mm's all had casting and plating issues, all except the "first" ones, but after they changed suppliers I had 100 percent issues with a test set of 10. At that point I did recommend several time to avoid them. Some of the 54's did, but that later ones are doing well. And I'm looking at a statistical lot of over 20 vs. 3. If I used your metric, 100 percent of hyped top ends would have failed. But I know there are plenty of success stories so it wouldn't be reasonable to make a final determination on that small a statistical set... I moved on and now have a few top ends from other sources to evaluate. Only so much time to spend on a hobby. And those Swedish saws are drawing me away as well.
And the beauty of this entire concept is even IF the cylinder supplied has issues, how expensive is it to get a Hyway or better AM option as an upgrade? Another 50-100 bucks? Even used OEM. Combined with all the other suggestions maybe 150? On top of a 300 kit...still under that threshold of being a waste of time...for a person who wants ownership in building a puzzle. If a person needs OEM consistency and durability...buy OEM. End of story. Ultimately that's my recommendation every time.
( And why in my last video, I'll defer to the "experts" wanting to give expert advise extrapolating from their experiences. I really just want to document my experiences and finding, simply empirical data from my trials and tribulations. Folks can derive what they choose from that.)
Same here. Just went and bought a oem one. They are cheap enough.I had one leak like that also....
Peed me off too...
After it peed on me....