MS440 oiler issues - Looking for guidance

[odin]

Bout to dig into the oiler on my MS440. Saw is used and came to me with the chain locked up on the bar. Now I think I know why....

Never had any issues with it myself (only ran it half-dozen times) until the last time I ran it and the oiler just flat-out stopped pumping.

So, my question - is there a lynch-pin part that has a tendency to go bad (or get erratic) on these, or am I in for a real hunt-and-peck cuss-fest before I finally break down and just replace the whole stinkin' thing???

 

[angelo c]

Bout to dig into the oiler on my MS440. Saw is used and came to me with the chain locked up on the bar. Now I think I know why....

Never had any issues with it myself (only ran it half-dozen times) until the last time I ran it and the oiler just flat-out stopped pumping.

So, my question - is there a lynch-pin part that has a tendency to go bad (or get erratic) on these, or am I in for a real hunt-and-peck cuss-fest before I finally break down and just replace the whole stinkin' thing???

most common for me is the plastic worm gear gets stripped. had a few melt into the gear that actually drives the pump but that is not common. take it off and see whats up. post some pics and we'll get it figured out.

 

[jacob j.]

There's also a tool-steel "tang" that locks into the edge (in a small notch) of the clutch drum, which drives the worm gear. I've seen the end of that tang broken or worn off many times. The tang can be purchased separately from the worm gear or a new worm gear can be purchased as an assembly.

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

I bought a complete ms440 worm gear from the stihl shop a few weeks ago for $6.50, so they're fairly inexpensive and simple to swap out after clutch removal.
The kind of heat that cooks those usually gets the crank seal too.

 

[odin]

...The kind of heat that cooks those usually gets the crank seal too...

You sir, should have your mouth washed out with soap!

I kinda figured the worm gear was prone to failure (and hopefully that's all it is). No farm chores tomorrow, so Ima try to dig into it first thing in the morning.

 

[dolmarkid]

Do what I did modify the oil pump it will oil a 32” bar

 

[dolmarkid]

I take that back I had someone else modify the oil pump

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

You sir, should have your mouth washed out with soap!

101 proof works good enough.

 

[huskihl]

I take that back I had someone else modify the oil pump

So they work?....

 

[drf256]

I’d personally check the worm gear, both the threads and the engaging part of the metal tang that slips into the drum.

Then there’s a possible clogged inlet line. Sometime you can rinse the tank with some mix and then run some through the pump to clean things up.

See if it’s pumping oil with the bar off. Make sure oil entry in bar lines up and is clean. Make sure there is oil in the tank ( I spent an hour playing with an 028 pump when there was no oil in saw as cause).

The pumps themselves are extremely simple devices. They are nearly bulletproof.

 

[Basher]

If the drive arm and drive threads are in good condition I have found quite a few that has a slippage problem where the steel drive arm wraps around the nylon/plastic drive drum, they slip instead of turn the drum with the drive threads. This may be caused by the colder climate we have in winter making the oil thick and harder to pump thus putting more strain on the drive components.

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

If the drive arm and drive threads are in good condition I have found quite a few that has a slippage problem where the steel drive arm wraps around the nylon/plastic drive drum, they slip instead of turn the drum with the drive threads. This may be caused by the colder climate we have in winter making the oil thick and harder to pump thus putting more strain on the drive components.

They can also slip if the arm is installed backwards on the plastic gear.

 

[Onan18]

101 proof works good enough.

For who it'd for?

 

[odin]

They can also slip if the arm is installed backwards in the plastic gear.

Dammit man, now I'm gonna hafta tear it all back down and check!!!

Got it all pulled apart and everything looked fine (scratches head). Zero wear on the worm gear and it didn't look like the arm had popped out of its slot (figured if it did there'd be some kinda wear mark inside the clutch drum and there wasn't). Soooo, I put it all back together and ran some diesel through the oiler. That made a fine stinking mess, so maybe it just got gunked up and needed flushing. Dunno.

That being said, I think I'm gonna take the clutch back off and check that the arm is in fact oriented correctly. No telling what kinda silliness the former owner did to this saw before it ended up at Crazy Carl's Pimp-n-Pawn.

Now if you'll excuse me, I need to go round up some green so I can make a donation to the GFM for Jon1212.

Least I can do considering all the help you guys dish out around here.

Thanks for all your help!

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

Dammit man, now I'm gonna hafta tear it all back down and check!!!

Got it all pulled apart and everything looked fine (scratches head). Zero wear on the worm gear and it didn't look like the arm had popped out of its slot (figured if it did there'd be some kinda wear mark inside the clutch drum and there wasn't). Soooo, I put it all back together and ran some diesel through the oiler. That made a fine stinking mess, so maybe it just got gunked up and needed flushing. Dunno.

That being said, I think I'm gonna take the clutch back off and check that the arm is in fact oriented correctly. No telling what kinda silliness the former owner did to this saw before it ended up at Crazy Carl's Pimp-n-Pawn.

Now if you'll excuse me, I need to go round up some green so I can make a donation to the GFM for Jon1212.

Least I can do considering all the help you guys dish out around here.

Thanks for all your help!

I didn't read any complaints from you about how hard it was to remove from the plastic gear, and put back on, so I don't think you have that problem.

 

[odin]

I didn't get all crazy prying and twisting on 'em, but the arm and gear seemed pretty snugly mated. Thought that seemed proper... unless I'm misunderstanding how the arm-drives-the-gear-drives-the-oiler...

Should probably ask, seeing as there's some not-so-subtle complaining from a couple posters here bout the "low" output of this (and prolly all stihl) oiler(s). Is there an easy mod to increasing output. It was plenty fine when running a 20-inch bar. Now I've got a 24-inch Tsumura and she's not quite as juicy.

Not that I think it's dry with the 24". I've only run it once, cutting a 12-foot section of dead hard trunk out of the widow's front yard down the street. That's when the oiler puked. Had to finish with the MS170. Yikes!!

 

[huskihl]

http://opeforum.com/threads/stihl-044-oiler-mod.9271/

 

[odin]

http://opeforum.com/threads/stihl-044-oiler-mod.9271/

Thank you sir! Looks like that'll work just dandy.