MS250 Help!!!

[MustangMike]

I just put a new motor in a MS250 and I have a vac leak that seems to be coming from where the intake boot goes into the cylinder.

Is there any way to remove that boot (and plastic cover) w/o pulling the engine???

Thanks.

 

[stihl_head1982]

Yes. But you will have to remove the top cover. If my memory is right. You will need to remove the wrap handle completely, the remove the carb and linkage and remove the rear handle/top cover.
The boot is attached inside the lip of the carb box (to the cover itself). It may be that you don't have the boot installed straight or something. My 2 pennies.

 

[MustangMike]

That plastic cover that holds the boot and impulse line does not seem to want to come off with the engine in place.

Any trick to it? (It is easy to take out with the engine out, but every time I remove the engine it comes apart and I don't want to re glue it!

 

[MustangMike]

Very frustrated with working on this homeowner design.

You have to slide the assembled & glued chamshell sideways into the frame, then bolt it in.

First time I did it I dragged a wire in with it, and had to undo it to get the wire out.

Start over, re glue, make shore the wires stay clear, and it fails pressure test. Seems the intake is leaking where it joins the cylinder. No way to take the intake off w/o pulling the cylinder, so we are back to try #3!!!

Furthermore, there is nothing wrong with the intake boot, and it looked like it was installed just the way it was supposed to be installed.

I'm thinking of glueing it with some silicon, don't know what else to do.

Very Frustrating, this saw is not worth the trouble, but I told the guy I would do it!!!

 

[Czed]

Qtip and motoseal on the boot surface and the motoseal sets it pretty firm I've had to fight the boot into the carb box and hasn't come loose .
i haven't had one leak yet
But they is a pain.
The one i'm doing the bar oil is coming through the vent next to the muffler i have to find a solution to that.

 

[angelo c]

Very frustrated with working on this homeowner design.

You have to slide the assembled & glued chamshell sideways into the frame, then bolt it in.

First time I did it I dragged a wire in with it, and had to undo it to get the wire out.

Start over, re glue, make shore the wires stay clear, and it fails pressure test. Seems the intake is leaking where it joins the cylinder. No way to take the intake off w/o pulling the cylinder, so we are back to try #3!!!

Furthermore, there is nothing wrong with the intake boot, and it looked like it was installed just the way it was supposed to be installed.

I'm thinking of glueing it with some silicon, don't know what else to do.

Very Frustrating, this saw is not worth the trouble, but I told the guy I would do it!!!

Mike, as with most things, the first few you do they are head scratchers....especially compared to an 1122 or 1128...they do get much easier with experience.... let them dry up overnight and they usually stay together ( with Yamabond anyway they do)
the good thing is you really need NO tooling , no splitter, no seal installer no ring compressor ect.

 

[stihl_head1982]

Mike, as with most things, the first few you do they are head scratchers....especially compared to an 1122 or 1128...they do get much easier with experience.... let them dry up overnight and they usually stay together ( with Yamabond anyway they do)
the good thing is you really need NO tooling , no splitter, no seal installer no ring compressor ect.

TROOF!

 

[MustangMike]

Thanks guys. I am using Dirko on it, but to tell you the truth I'm not real impressed with the stuff.

Also, I lost track of where the other end of the impulse line gets connected. The only fitting on the carb is for the gas line ... not used to these!!!

 

[TJ the Chainsaw Mechanic]

Dirko is just "glorified red silicon". Probably more stinkin expensive to.

 

[MustangMike]

Yea, it was not cheap!

 

[malk315]

Mike I'm chuckling a bit because a friend mentioned they couldn't get the bar and chain back on their Husky 345 and I told them leave it with me and I'll have a look.
Bar stud missing and rattling around inside the saw... oh man I thought I was getting into a case split to do a favor for a friend, yikes.
Turned out on the Husky 345 clamshell design both bar studs leave through the oil tank. Drained, shook the stud out and it's fine. No long needle nose on hand so I fed a piece of string through the stud hole and out the oil filler. wrapped electrical tape (single layer not too thick) on stud and around the string -- pull the stud through. Put a bar nut on, pry it in to seated position... all set!
Thought I'd be into a project. Put an edge on the chain and a couple of test cuts. Problem solved in short time and cost my friend nothing to fix. I was impressed with the narrow kerf semi chisel on there cut pretty good after hand filing w/ 3/16" file.

That stud stays seated in real nice... now I'm wondering how the heck the owner managed to push it through and have it fall into the oil tank...

Hope you get that saw sorted Mike. I would put my money on MustangMike for the win... no MS250 gonna get the best of you!

Good luck and cheers.

 

[MustangMike]

Thanks Eric, yea I will get it, but I may walk away from it a few times first!

Smart save there on the saw you worked on.

Any word on your 044?

 

[angelo c]

Thanks Eric, yea I will get it, but I may walk away from it a few times first!

Smart save there on the saw you worked on.

Any word on your 044?

Mike, no walking away from a Stihl ....you ask/post pics and yer buddies will walk ya through it....just think of it as a "new tax code" ya gotta lern.
If I remember the impulse connects to the nipple on the back of the handle/ carb mount. Not on the carb itself. For me the hardest part is those stupid bushings in the handle/ frame....little heat, little lube...good to go.
You need an IPL/service manual ?

 

[stihl_head1982]

Mike, no walking away from a Stihl ....you ask/post pics and yer buddies will walk ya through it....just think of it as a "new tax code" ya gotta lern.
If I remember the impulse connects to the nipple on the back of the handle/ carb mount. Not on the carb itself. For me the hardest part is those stupid bushings in the handle/ frame....little heat, little lube...good to go. You need an IPL/service manual ?

I believe he is right from what I remember about the impulse. On the bushings on the handle I use a little WD-40 -- makes things press right in.
These little saws actually run well with a muffler mod. The service manual may not hurt though -- perhaps it can clarify. Or post some pics and ask more questions.

 

[malk315]

Thanks Eric, yea I will get it, but I may walk away from it a few times first!

Smart save there on the saw you worked on.

Any word on your 044?

I'll need to inquire on the 044 end of summer. That will give him plenty of time to clear the trees he wants to do in new Hampshire. You guys will be the first to know if I score that 044. Cheers

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[MustangMike]

Thanks guys, I think I'll be OK w/o the IPL, but will let you know if I need it.

After I put is all together for the 2nd time, then had to take it apart again due to the intake manifold leak, I just had to walk away from it for a bit.

These things were obviously designed to be throw away saws, as you can't just take apart what you want to take apart.

Hopefully, it will run well and the guy will like it!

Any tips on the muff mod, anther strange looking beast! I'm thinking of drilling a hole straight away in the baffle, opening up the round hole in the muffler, removing the screen, and opening the louvered slots (3) with a screw driver. Sound about right??? Will be tough to make sure you blow all the debris out of that closed up can.

 

[angelo c]

Thanks guys, I think I'll be OK w/o the IPL, but will let you know if I need it.

After I put is all together for the 2nd time, then had to take it apart again due to the intake manifold leak, I just had to walk away from it for a bit.

These things were obviously designed to be throw away saws, as you can't just take apart what you want to take apart.

Hopefully, it will run well and the guy will like it!

Any tips on the muff mod, anther strange looking beast! I'm thinking of drilling a hole straight away in the baffle, opening up the round hole in the muffler, removing the screen, and opening the louvered slots (3) with a screw driver. Sound about right??? Will be tough to make sure you blow all the debris out of that closed up can.

Mike. Make sure it has the adjustable carb before you cut the muff. I think it's a wt215...yea the louvres is the common way to muff it. they really wake up afterwards.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Mike et al., I have a brand new MS 250 sitting on the shelf. One thing I discovered is that if the low-speed carb setscrew is open too far, that engine will flood when cold with only two pulls on the rope with the choke on, and it never pops with the choke on. I've never seen any other Stihl saw do that.

I suppose it's possible that the dealer reset the red limiter so that the setscrew is open too far, but regardless, I have never encountered this before. When the engine does start, it seems to run OK, but I've never seen such an easy flood. Mine also has a primer/purge bulb. If you or anyone else has any suggestions, I'd like to hear them. TIA.

 

[angelo c]

Mike et al., I have a brand new MS 250 sitting on the shelf. One thing I discovered is that if the low-speed carb setscrew is open too far, that engine will flood when cold with only two pulls on the rope with the choke on, and it never pops with the choke on. I've never seen any other Stihl saw do that.

I suppose it's possible that the dealer reset the red limiter so that the setscrew is open too far, but regardless, I have never encountered this before. When the engine does start, it seems to run OK, but I've never seen such an easy flood. Mine also has a primer/purge bulb. If you or anyone else has any suggestions, I'd like to hear them. TIA.

Edwin, you have discovered all the common traits of the 025/250 line...they start different then any other OPE.
three pulls max then take choke OFF...NO BURP is often heard. I think you have the "C" version which many of us have never seen.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Edwin, you have discovered all the common traits of the 025/250 line...they start different then any other OPE.
three pulls max then take choke OFF...NO BURP is often heard. I think you have the "C" version which many of us have never seen.

You are correct. It is the C version with that screwy start assist spring mechanism that tends to be unpredictable. The fellow who bought the saw from the dealer unfortunately passed away from a massive heart attack. I bought the saw from his widow who needed estate money.

Before he died, he took the saw to the dealer and paid $50 for a carb "tune up" and a new spark plug. That solved nothing. I doubt the saw has two hours of operation time.