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ms200t ring install

Lone Wolf

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I too, am watching. I have been needing a top handle for a while, just have not pulled the trigger yet. I hope you get it sorted. With Lone Wolfs' help, you just might. No shame in sending it out. It's like replacing the timing chain on your kids' Honda Civic. First you find out it's not a chain, it's a belt. Then you realize the water pump and a bunch of other stuff goes with it. Cluster duck. After you do ten of them, you can't remember what the problem was.
I did one on a Honda it was damn tight.
 

jimmorrison

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After not driving a tool box car for years, I have now been working on the kids Cavalier and Jeep. Definite flashback.
 

Husky187

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I just don't know where the issue could be within the saw. I checked the handle assembly and it seems that nothing is bent, rubbing or not pulling smoothly. And it also seems to pull on the carb the correct way as well. As far as the intake boot, I can't seem to find any type of hole, unless it's just so minute that I can't locate it. The one thing that does seem to be a bit binding is the switch, but I feel like I got it to where it should function properly, and shouldn't create the issue of immediately revving when starting.
 

jimmorrison

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Cheap lift kit took out the driveshaft, suspension components suck, starts at 20 below, every time.
 

Lone Wolf

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I just don't know where the issue could be within the saw. I checked the handle assembly and it seems that nothing is bent, rubbing or not pulling smoothly. And it also seems to pull on the carb the correct way as well. As far as the intake boot, I can't seem to find any type of hole, unless it's just so minute that I can't locate it. The one thing that does seem to be a bit binding is the switch, but I feel like I got it to where it should function properly, and shouldn't create the issue of immediately revving when starting.
Did you start it with the linkage off the carb? Send it to me and it will be done in a matter of days. Dont sound like too much is wrong.
 

Husky187

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No i have not. Which one, top left of bottom right? I believe bottom right would control the choke?
 

Lone Wolf

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No i have not. Which one, top left of bottom right? I believe bottom right would control the choke?
Take the carb off and the throttle link on the right, put carb back and run. If it idles high air leak. If fixed bent linkage.
 

Husky187

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So, I feel stupid for this but like I said the switch and choke just seemed to be binding a little bit and not a very smooth transition for choke, half, run, and off. I redid the handle assembly again and I also backed out the front torx bit (t15?) and although it created minimal gap in the handle the trigger was much smoother, I just had to play around with the idle, but it seems to be totally fine now. I actual feel like a total noob.
 

jimmorrison

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Always interested in how these things play out.
 

Husky187

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So I go to run the saw, and when I go to pull on the throttle it will always throw the top connecting rod in the handle off of the hanger that engages it to the trigger. I looked at the rod and it doesn't seem to be bent at all, and when you pull on it you can just tell that it pulls up and off. Any reason this could be happening?
 

Jiles

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So I go to run the saw, and when I go to pull on the throttle it will always throw the top connecting rod in the handle off of the hanger that engages it to the trigger. I looked at the rod and it doesn't seem to be bent at all, and when you pull on it you can just tell that it pulls up and off. Any reason this could be happening?

Is the "bow" installed in the handle?
It is a staple shaped wire that limits the movement if the two rods.
 

Lone Wolf

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So I go to run the saw, and when I go to pull on the throttle it will always throw the top connecting rod in the handle off of the hanger that engages it to the trigger. I looked at the rod and it doesn't seem to be bent at all, and when you pull on it you can just tell that it pulls up and off. Any reason this could be happening?
Send it!
 
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