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tree monkey

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Trying to learn something here, what attributes/running characteristics lead you to that conclusion?

I tested the saw with a stock piston, timed cuts. I then swapped the piston with one with a 4deg duration bevel n the exhaust port. tested and timed cuts. saw was faster and stronger. this tells me to raise the exhaust 2 deg and test again. if I get a gain, then raise 2 deg more. repeat till either no gain or it starts going south. put stock piston in and it will be 4 deg shorter timing. doing this allows me to back up without starting over with a new cylinder.

the other pistons are for the transfers. I was to cheap to buy a 4th piston for the intake, so I ended up grinding it to far. easy fix but loose time for testing.
 

ABarrick

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I tested the saw with a stock piston, timed cuts. I then swapped the piston with one with a 4deg duration bevel n the exhaust port. tested and timed cuts. saw was faster and stronger. this tells me to raise the exhaust 2 deg and test again. if I get a gain, then raise 2 deg more. repeat till either no gain or it starts going south. put stock piston in and it will be 4 deg shorter timing. doing this allows me to back up without starting over with a new cylinder.

the other pistons are for the transfers. I was to cheap to buy a 4th piston for the intake, so I ended up grinding it to far. easy fix but loose time for testing.
I think I worded my first question wrong. I understood what you were doing with the grinding on the piston so you could test timing without being permanent, but I was looking for what is it that you feel when your running it that makes you say I think this saw needs more or less of a certain part of the porting scheme?
 
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