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Modifying Oil Pumps

CR888

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Thanx 4 this thread Randy, my MS261 was not oiling as well as I wanted so today I bit the bullet & did the control bolt mod. The 261's oil pump is very similar to those in this thread. It turned out well with the piston travel end pin moving out much more than it did prior to the mod. It also gave me a chance to clean the canola crud build up on the spring and gear. This thread explained things simply and easily unlike other oiler mod threads. Good one!
 

Leafy

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Is there a comparable 372 version? My chuztle oiler should have BP stamped on it, I want to slow it down, it uses like a tank of oil per tank of fuel. Bar oil is expensive and messy. But really I believe the chuztle 372 oiler works differently than the Stihl ones shown here. The adjuster screw is threaded in, figured it was like a needle valve that just blocked flow as you turned it in and if you really wanted more flow you could just pop the spring off and turn the screw one notch over, then put the spring back on.
 

CR888

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Another alternative is to switch to a veg oil like canola or olive oil that you can source cheap/free. Then it don't matter how much spews out, it can drip on your lawn, hands & clothes and not cause issues. I have an unlimited free supply of canola so that's what I use although it does have some problems you need to keep on top of. Olive oil would be my choice if I could source it really cheap/free. No gumming up, no chains seizing/nose sprockets, no chain adjusters getting jammed up with crud. But I'd still prefer paying for olive oil than go back to petroleum stuff. Running saws near every day, its been near a decade now on veg oils.
 

drf256

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No insult meant at all to the OP. He is one talented Monkey.

This is an old thread.

@huskihl did an 044 pump mod thread that’s good to research.

http://opeforum.com/threads/stihl-044-oiler-mod.9271/

If you put the plunger and control bolt together in proper geometry you’ll find the this control bolt only mod will do little to nothing. Unless one modifies the ramp, the stroke at WFO will remain unchanged by a control bolt mod alone. It’s the lower part of the ramp that comes in contact with the control tab, not the upper. So unless one lowers the bottom of the ramp, the stroke will remain exactly the same.

The ramp rides on the lower round (not top offset) area. The offset allows a limit to how much the low hits the lower round portion.

So to mod a pump, one must do the above mod to the offset plus mod the ramp so the the piston rod tip is allowed to move up att the way to it. Unless this is done, the lower will just ride in the same spot and the tip just won’t ever touch the control bolt.

I’m all ears if I’m seeing it wrong. Perhaps the factory was off on the low ramp and the above mod will increase output. I just don’t see it.
 

67L36Driver

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Take a good look. It’s certainly tricky.

View attachment 132231 View attachment 132232

I’m with drf.

Total stroke (displacement) is controlled by the ramp. Control bolt only limits the usable portion of the total.

Make the ‘pitch’ (travel per revolution) longer for more displacement will get more oil flow.

Shop for a better piston now, we will. [emoji848]

Built a Farmertec 066 for a client focused on milling with it.

Going to need an aux oiler anyway, regardless.
 

Lightning Performance

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If your going beyond the bolt mod or buying oe parts it is easier sometimes to retrofit other parts or pumps if you want more oil. Sometimes it isn't possible and you need to do all that work Doc mentioned and it sucks. Fat human fingers and small parts = pia.
 

FergusonTO35

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I love all saws even the wild things. Gotta have something aroud to cut rootballs out the ground.

Honestly, that is the biggest problem with most cheap and homeowner grade saws. They just don't oil enough for extended cuts, even if the saw is up to it. With my Poulan, I would usually let it rest between cuts so the oil would catch up or shoot oil into the bar groove with a squirt can.
 
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