Metal roofing install

[Dustin4185]

We are about to wrap up spring planting and are starting to get some better weather to start our shop roof restructure and roofing.

Here is the big debate:
Screw in the flats or the ribs?

From the contractors I have asked, it is about 50/50. Morton screws in the ribs, but their metal is much thicker. The metal supplier/manufacturer says it doesn’t matter as far as warranty goes. Most metal roofing contractors say the screws need replaced every ten years.

There were NUMEROUS issues with the other roof that has caused it to fail. I have always screwed in the flats with a screw next to each rib and one extra on the last flat. I also screw each side of the ribs on the bottom run.

The current roof is too flat(2/12), the purlins are 1x6, the screws were over tightened, the lap is bass ackwards, and the transition from the 4/12 roof to the addition wasn’t done correctly. Also there is gable end flashing which has caused some water damage underneath. The original section is screwed in the flats into 2x6 rough cut poplar and only has a couple leaks. These are mainly screws/washers breaking down. It is over 25 years old.

Our plan is to set mono trusses on the addition and stick build to the ridge of the original shop. Then 2x6 roof purlins and metal.

Any metal roofers in here want to give me their two cents?

Thanks

 

[kfd518]

Screw in the flats, laps run the right way with TEC screws in the laps careful not to over tighten. Use tacky tape between the sheets on the laps. If you can afford it use ZAC screws. Bottom row, 1 screw each side of the rib.

Caulk gun and grey butyl rubber sealer is your friend!

 

[Deets066]

Always in the lows bud.

 

[Big1066ih]

We screw flats here

 

[Dustin4185]

Screw in the flats, laps run the right way with TEC screws in the laps careful not to over tighten. Use tacky tape between the sheets on the laps. If you can afford it use ZAC screws. Bottom row, 1 screw each side of the rib.

Caulk gun and grey butyl rubber sealer is your friend!

Link to said screws? I found some, but not sure they are what you are referring to. Morton uses a SS torx screw.

 

[kfd518]

https://www.sfsintecusa.com/mo/us/e..._to_wood_screws/long_life_capped/woodzac.html

They keep the washer out of the sun and prevent over tightening the field screws. Still have to be careful about the lap TECs though.

 

[Dustin4185]

https://www.sfsintecusa.com/mo/us/e..._to_wood_screws/long_life_capped/woodzac.html

They keep the washer out of the sun and prevent over tightening the field screws. Still have to be careful about the lap TECs though.

Ok, they made the ones Morton used as well. So they have the metal shield that covers the washer. I’ve used similar in heavy R panels before. I will see if I can find a vendor locally. We have a few big fastener supply houses nearby.

 

[kkemp]

Here's the screws we use on all our metal . Self tapping tip , they start very easy . We screw 99% on flat .

 

[kfd518]

Dustin if everything is built square you can pre drill stacks of roofing about 15 sheets at a time.
Measure your ribs and make a clamping jig as wide as the sheets with spacers at least as deep as the ribs are. Then use a piece of angle or tubing on the bottom of the stack. Clamp together with just enough clearance for your drill then drill a row and move up to continue the process w the next row. This helps prevent stray holes. Just be sure to clamp the top or bottom edge of the sheet stack at both outside edges to keep them from shifting when you move you clamping jig for drilling.

 

[huskihl]

View attachment 181618Here's the screws we use on all our metal . Self tapping tip , they start very easy . We screw 99% on flat .

That's mostly what we use here. 5/16 heads if going into osb.

Gotta watch some of the screws with washers that cup over the rubber. I've seen the 5/16 heads strip or twist off and there's a 5 sided 3/16 head underneath.

 

[Big1066ih]

Dustin if everything is built square you can pre drill stacks of roofing about 15 sheets at a time.
Measure your ribs and make a clamping jig as wide as the sheets with spacers at least as deep as the ribs are. Then use a piece of angle or tubing on the bottom of the stack. Clamp together with just enough clearance for your drill then drill a row and move up to continue the process w the next row. This helps prevent stray holes. Just be sure to clamp the top or bottom edge of the sheet stack at both outside edges to keep them from shifting when you move you clamping jig for drilling.

FYI if ya pre drill, wear eye protection if you're pushing sheets up. Ask me how I know

 

[Lightning Performance]

I acquired some old panels already drilled/used for my p&b project.

Pops roofs are a in the gutters/flats. The screws are thirty years old and holding well. 2x4 perins on a wood truss A type 4-12 pitch on four foot centers. The stripped screws suck and they leak. How do you repair the holes if I make that mistake, JB Weld or?

 

[Deets066]

Have you looked into ProSnap metal roofing? It’s a residential panel wiling hidden fasteners.

 

[Dustin4185]

Have you looked into ProSnap metal roofing? It’s a residential panel wiling hidden fasteners.

I haven’t looked at that brand. One of the suppliers around here will come out on site and run off a type of standing seam roofing, but it is HIGH! It only cover 16” and is twice as much per LF!

 

[Dustin4185]

FYI if ya pre drill, wear eye protection if you're pushing sheets up. Ask me how I know

Been there, it SUX! Still not as bad as the wire wheel bristle......My wife about beat me over that one. Now I keep a pair of safety glasses on my face most of the day if doing any sort of work. I had implantable contact lenses done 6 years ago. It cost me close to $12,000! If something happens to them, I would have to do it again on that eye. I have been warned!

 

[Dustin4185]

Dustin if everything is built square you can pre drill stacks of roofing about 15 sheets at a time.
Measure your ribs and make a clamping jig as wide as the sheets with spacers at least as deep as the ribs are. Then use a piece of angle or tubing on the bottom of the stack. Clamp together with just enough clearance for your drill then drill a row and move up to continue the process w the next row. This helps prevent stray holes. Just be sure to clamp the top or bottom edge of the sheet stack at both outside edges to keep them from shifting when you move you clamping jig for drilling.

We usually pre drill or use a scratch awl and punch the holes in 3-4 sheets. One time we forgot to take half the stack off and flip it! We had to move purlins to match the screw holes then! It was a small wood shed so it didn’t have but 10 sheets total. None of us forgot that screw up and always remember to triple check! This job is going to have 34’ metal on one side. That’s going to be fun to keep the laps right on.

 

[usmcbuckwild]

View attachment 181627 I acquired some old panels already drilled/used for my p&b project.

Pops roofs are a in the gutters/flats. The screws are thirty years old and holding well. 2x4 perins on a wood truss A type 4-12 pitch on four foot centers. The stripped screws suck and they leak. How do you repair the holes if I make that mistake, JB Weld or?

You can use a small rubber plug with some butyl sealant. Or, scab in a piece of framing under the hole and put a screw in it.