Measure Twice....

[Agr516]

I have a 394xp that i wanted to put my 36" Stihl bar on. I have a couple of chains for it already that are 114dl, which is a little too short to work on the husqvarna with the bar adapter. I wanted to use the chains without having to add drive links so i decided to lengthen the bar slot. Spent and hour lengthening the slot by 1/2" with files and a dremel only to finish and find out that the bar adjuster on the saw wont screw back far enough to make use of the new 1/2" i just added to the bar slot. Damnit.

 

[cease232]

Hahah. I'm only laughing cause I just did this very thing on my 395.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Wood Doctor]

It might have been easier to make your own shop-made bar adapter instead. I've been able to do this for Makita and Echo saws so that I can use Stihl bars. It requires an adapter with a minimal nose. OR, can you shave the nose of the adapter that you have down to bare bones?

 

[huskihl]

Could drill another set of holes in the bar a half inch forward

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

A 1/2" drill bit works great for making a perfect stihl size slot end. A 3/8 chain round file blows through the majority of material in minutes before finishing off with a flat file. It looks as good as from the factory when done.
On a stihl bar to fit husqvarna I'll drill the slot end to husqvarna stud size so I only need one little sleeve adapter for the back stud.

 

[Deets066]

Or grind the tail a fuzz

 

[Lee H]

Could drill another set of holes in the bar a half inch forward

And make sure the oil hole lines up.

 

[Wood Doctor]

And make sure the oil hole lines up.

That is indeed crucial. The saw's oiler slot has got to reach the bar's oiler hole or the entire exercise is useless.

 

[Deets066]

You could just drill a new oiler hole in the bar, I've done it a few times

 

[Agr516]

It may work to just drill a new chain adjuster hole 1/2" forward of the factory hole in the bar. As it is now, i still have 3/8-1/2" of gap between the bar tail and the sprocket when the chain adjuster is dialed all the way back. Would have to make sure the oiler hole isnt traveling back too far to pick up oil out of the delivery port in the case.

 

[huskihl]

And make sure the oil hole lines up.

That is indeed crucial. The saw's oiler slot has got to reach the bar's oiler hole or the entire exercise is useless.

On the ones I've done, when the Stihl bar tail hits an 8 tooth sprocket, the bar oiler hole is 1/4" into the husky oil output slot. I've only done Stihl bars on Huskies tho. Don't know about other brands

 

[Dub11]

This what I did.


And all I did was drill a hole where I wanted it then took a cut off wheel on a angle grinder to it. It's not the prettiest but the @Homelite410 adapter made it right

 

[Al Smith]

With a little imagination you can great pretty creative adapting bars .A die grinder is certainly easier than a chainsaw file .Where you run into problems is where the tail of the bar is too narrow to hit the oiler outlet .
It certainly is easier to adapt a Stihl mount to Husky rather than Husky to Stihl .

 

[Agr516]

This what I did.
View attachment 117159

And all I did was drill a hole where I wanted it then took a cut off wheel on a angle grinder to it. It's not the prettiest but the @Homelite410 adapter made it right

Yeah that right there is exactly what I have going on. Just need to add the two new chain adjuster holes. Thanks for the picture.

 

[Dub11]

Yeah that right there is exactly what I have going on. Just need to add the two new chain adjuster holes. Thanks for the picture.

And I also took a diamond bar thingy on a dremel and opened up the oiler hole just cause.