McCulloch Super 44A rebuild

[Sleeper]

Figure I should start a build thread for a saw I'm currently working on. This saw has either been built or rebuilt with a Super 55A block, which had the numbers X'd out.

Parts are hard to find for these saws... I would like to bore this one .010" over, but finding a piston and rings is like searching an Earth sized ball of needles for a 3" piece of hay. Might lose an eyeball over that.

Anyhow, onto what I've done so far.

Here is the first bit of disassembly...

Here is the look of the cylinder and piston through the exhaust port...

Here's another picture of disassembly...

Found out why it would not go to TDC... yes, that is saw dust and crud in the cylinder, and yes, this saw has a removable head.

Split the fuel tank...

This is why all of that crud was in the cylinder... yes, there is supposed to be flocking on that wire screen.

Torn down completely, except for the old bearings still being on the crankshaft...

These early saws are not exactly user friendly... takes some finesse and a little bit of thinking to remove some of the parts. Also, special tools like flywheel pullers and a small bearing splitter.

Got the new bearings and seals at the bearing supply store. These are about the only parts you can find for these saws... air filters, carburetor kits, fuel wicks (big felt thing in the fuel tank) and such are NLA, as far as I know.

Hope someone finds this interesting.

I like this saw and I haven't even run it yet...

 

[heimannm]

Parts can be found but you need to be diligent in your search. E-bay is a good start but you won't find everything you need with a point and a click.

Bob Johnson, Discount Marine, M and D, Randy's Engine Repair, cheapchainsawparts, the list goes on.

Check with Terry Ives (Terry Ives Industries, Granite Bay, California) for the piston, he can bore it for you as well. Terry is a kart Guru but many kart parts interchange with the saws, particularly with the early models. As you noted, the D-44 family and the MAC10 are very close relatives.

Mark

 

[Mark71gtx]

If you know part numbers for some of the parts you are looking for, I may have them. I have a lot of NOS wicks, air filters, and rings that I have no idea what they fit... there are several other parts as well in a box I got this weekend that I have yet to go through.

 

[Lee H]

Nice project. Parts can be found but as Mark stated you must be patient.
Ebay is a great start as well as all those Mark listed. Terry Ives has pistons
that may fit in .004 increments. Any automobile machine shop should be able to bore the cylinder.

 

[Sleeper]

If you know part numbers for some of the parts you are looking for, I may have them. I have a lot of NOS wicks, air filters, and rings that I have no idea what they fit... there are several other parts as well in a box I got this weekend that I have yet to go through.

Part #51157 for the air filter... and #51309 for the felt wick. Also looking for gasket part #'s 51357, 51334A, 51481, 36093, 51242, and 51240.

Thanks for looking through your stuff, and to Mark H. for the help for locating some parts suppliers... will be bothering some of those guys for parts.

 

[Mark71gtx]

For the boxes I have gone through so far, I have written down all of the part numbers and what box they are in. I will check my lists tonight.

 

[Mark71gtx]

If you get a chance, measure the air filter for me. The filters are loose, so I don't have a part number for them.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

 

[Sleeper]

If you get a chance, measure the air filter for me. The filters are loose, so I don't have a part number for them.

5 1/8"x5 5/16" (5.125"x5.3125") Hole for the filter cover screw should be in the middle of the filter.

 

[TJ the Chainsaw Mechanic]

Subbed.

 

[hseII]

Awesome.

 

[Mark71gtx]

I haven't forgotten about you. I checked all of my part numbers and I have nothing from your list. I am holding out hope on the filter though. I will let you know one way or the other.

 

[Sleeper]

Thanks Mark71gtx, let me know what you find for a filter.

Got an update for you guys...

Got a potential piston candidate... we'll see if it will work for sure once it gets here... piston size is 2.130, so just a fuzz over what the bore is now. Have a shop nearby that will be able to hone the cylinder to size, and accurately too.

I did not get a picture of it yet, but the new crank bearings have been installed. They roll over much smoother than the old ones did, which those old ones might be original. It was real easy... bagging up and then freezing the crankshaft overnight and tapping the bearings in place with a deep well impact socket on the inner race, and small hammer worked well. Didn't take much tapping to get the bearings on.

People wonder why I spend money on these old things.

 

[heimannm]

All of the large frame saws from the D-44/55, 1-40/50/60 all the way through the 200/300/400/500/600/700/800 and CP125 use the same air filter. For that matter, the 73A/77 use the same one as well. There are several different part numbers for the same filter, there is even a special filter for use with the cold weather kit that ducts warm air off the muffler to the air box on the CP125.

There was an e-bay seller that was offering filters cut from max flo material.

In addition to OEM parts there were pirates back in the day making copies as well.

Just keep in mind that on different model saws they fit in the air box in a different orientation. If it does not fit properly, try rotating it 90º.

Mark

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

That piston looks like it can be cleaned up and used without any performance decrease.

 

[Sleeper]

That piston looks like it can be cleaned up and used without any performance decrease.

Even when standard bore is 2.125"? I measured the bore of this cylinder and it's 2.128" .003" worn...

The bore is also smoother than a freshly shaved bald head, no way for the rings to re seal without honing, and I figure honing it will just take it to 2.130" anyways... plus I really don't want to have to tear this thing down again later, at least not for a long time.

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

Even when standard bore is 2.125"? I measured the bore of this cylinder and it's 2.128" .003" worn...

The bore is also smoother than a freshly shaved bald head, no way for the rings to re seal without honing, and I figure honing it will just take it to 2.130" anyways... plus I really don't want to have to tear this thing down again later, at least not for a long time.

I'd clean it up and run it like it is until I find the replacement parts. It'll store better that way and you won't risk losing any parts.

 

[Al Smith]

You're worried over nothing .from the book,s44A bore 2.1250 to 2.1260 .Recommend rebore if 5 thou over on chainsaws ,7 thou on go kart engines .Max taper or ovality of 5 thou .

I'd just stick it back together and run it unless the rings are shot .

 

[Sleeper]

You're worried over nothing .from the book,s44A bore 2.1250 to 2.1260 .Recommend rebore if 5 thou over on chainsaws ,7 thou on go kart engines .Max taper or ovality of 5 thou .

I'd just stick it back together and run it unless the rings are shot .

The rings look okay. So a light hone and put it back together that way it is? I can do that.

Even so, I will check the piston that is headed my way and see if it would even work for this application... we'll know for sure once it's here. If it will work, I will likely buy it anyways.

 

[Sleeper]

Some were probably wondering how this project is going...

It's getting started on being put back together. Have some stuff to get yet. All gaskets have been made (by me) and some more parts are soon to be ordered. Only concern is PTO crank seal.

Seems that a SKF 6640 fits a bit tight and bends a bit in the flat spot that you use to install it. In other words, the seal isn't straight across (perpendicular to) the crank, it's a little off. Is that a problem?