High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

Looking for a tie straps and pre-sets!

Philbert

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Philbert, I tried the grease tip you mention for the spinner I got and it made things worse so I went back the the Magic Tap cutting oil.
Sorry that it did not work out for you. Glad you found something that works.

I keep an old, plastic, Rx container with a little wheel bearing grease with my spinner, and place a dot of it on each rivet with a toothpick. The need to lube the end when spinning was emphasized to me by an Oregon chain engineer, so I was surprised to not see it mentioned in their video. Usually I hear 'a drop of oil', but the grease stays put better for me.

Destroy three sets of presets during the testing.
Yep, they fall under 'consumables', and like most other things, it is a skill that takes some practice to develop.

I can sell a loop this size for nearly as cheap as my sharpening fee.
That's a real challenge. Locally, the big box store sells Oregon 'S56' loops for something like $8 on sale; local shops charge at least $7 to sharpen. Seems wasteful to me to throw them out but hard to make a business case for a sharpening service. Sharpening your own, on your own time, is a different story.

Philbert
 

AVB

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Yes it takes lots practice. Its the 3/8lp that's giving fits with some cracking even lightly increasing the spinning pressure. The .325 and std 3/8 are doing fine. I am learning to do better each time I spin the rivets. I have thought about making conversion to where I can use a low speed drill. Probably will not work but it worth the experimental try.

As sharpening fee I am charging $8.50. This mostly because of heavy worn or trying to straighten out a poor grinder sharpening job. Too many chains are ruin by sharpers here. The chain I did yesterday was actually dub sharpen.; hard to get out without losing a lot of the cutter tooth. Now I got a cheap grinder for rocked chains but I usually finish them by hand. At least I don't burn the cutters or cut the tie straps. I still these grinders chop saw type grinders.
 

Philbert

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3/8 low pro seems to give guys the most trouble, both spinning and breaking. Guess the smaller pitch chains take a more delicate touch.

On AS Grande Dog (don't see him on this site - formerly with Bailey's, then with Left Coast Supplies) advised to punch them out at little at a time, switching between rivets. That helped to preserve the smaller, thinner, tie straps. Similarly with spinning, I try to stop 'early', then do a little more, rather than over tighten on the smaller gauge presets.

I have thought about making conversion to where I can use a low speed drill. Probably will not work but it worth the experimental try.

Drill Operated Spinner.jpg
This was done by @tree monkey 's dad; seen at a GTG several years back. Another 'old timer' told me that there was once a formal conversion kit, but you can see that it is not that complicated.

Too many chains are ruin by sharpers here.
Again, takes knowledge, skill, and practice. Also helps to have good quality wheels and to dress them frequently - something that guys with cheap grinders often don't understand.

I can ruin a new cutter with just a few file strokes, if I 'do it wrong'. If they don't know what they are doing, a grinder just lets folks ruin cutters faster!

Philbert
 

Altamaha

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"Again, takes knowledge, skill, and practice. Also helps to have good quality wheels and to dress them frequently - something that guys with cheap grinders often don't understand.

I can ruin a new cutter with just a few file strokes, if I 'do it wrong'. If they don't know what they are doing, a grinder just lets folks ruin cutters faster!"

Philbert



Yep, I agree with the saw shops messing up chains. Usually the low guy on the payroll with the least experience does the grunt work. I took two chains in a month ago to one of the shops here for sharpening, came back with the cutters burned. This is why I bought the Super Jolly. No way will I take my chains for the 6 foot milling bar to someone to sharpen!
 

Junk Meister

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Sometimes they do. I have some Oregon 1/2" presets that will not fit other Oregon 1/2" chains (different style)! In general, I try to use Oregon presets on Oregon chains, STIHL presets on STIHL chains, etc.

Gauge is funny. Most STIHL drive links are .063 at the top (where the preset goes), and are swaged down at the bottom for .058 and .050 chains. Most .050 and .058 Oregon drive links are .058 at the top; except narrow kerf .050 (which is .050 at the top and bottom); 063 is .063 at the top and bottom.
Thanks Philbert Your in-depth detailed explanation Brought issues to my attention that I was clueless about. Could have been a hard education without these kind of threads... And Thanks to everyone else TOO
 

countryhog

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Anyone know how to find that seller on a phone. Havent figured that out after 7-8 years. Figure whats the hurry, eh
Ok, got on my desktop. Went to “advanced”, “seller”, typed in “saturdaybounty” and no dice
Same result when searching for item no.
Guessing no longer available or im a nidgit. Highly possible
Found it. Sold out
 
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