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Let's Talk Clutches . . .

Philbert

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Having a discussion with some experienced colleagues about chainsaw use, and looking for some input beyond 'their' opinion and 'my' opinion.

They train people to feather their throttle, using just enough speed to accomplish the task (e.g. limbing), referring to this as 'trigger control'. I was taught to run the saw full throttle / wide open, to make full use of the motor torque, as well as to avoid potential kick back, pull in, or push back situations.

They train people to always use the bumper spikes when bucking. I use the spikes when needed for control of the log, but try to use the whole bar for even wear, and to control the location of the bar tip, for kick back reasons. I have also seen people use the spikes as a fulcrum point to try and force a dull chain through the wood, so I try to be cautions about that.

These might reflect personal preferences, but one of their guys remarked on how fast they go through clutches, which made me think of a causal link. Interested in any feedback, but not any name calling or sarcasm, as I would like to share any comments with them.

Thanks!

Philbert
 

CR888

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I wear out clutches on pole saws faster than normal saws. OEM's all advocate full throttle while operating a saw cutting for more than one reason. You been finding some interesting friends of late Philbert.
 

Wilhelm

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I sometimes go partial throttle on my big saws, but I am aware that WOT is the designed principle of a chainsaw engine.

I have 4 saws, I only had to replace 1 clutch assembly (clutch weights and clutch drum) on my 30 years old Sachs-Dolmar 105 (40cc).
That saw only ever knew WOT, idle and OFF.

I like my chains to self feed, I don't like to force my saws through the wood - but I'll do it in a pinch or to finish the job at hand.
I am OK with exerting down force pressure on the front handle to increase load on the saw.
I mostly use the saws spikes as contact surface between the log and the saw.
I use the spikes as leverage when flush cutting a stump.

Branches need be limbed at WOT.

I don't start my saws with the chain brake on.
Would it be safer? Yes!
Is it good for the saw? I don't think so!
 
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junkman

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I just use enough throttle to get the job done without over revving the saw ,some of my saws tune to 16k though ,if have to use the dogs in a cut your chain is dull ,i cut with the dogs several inches from the log ,with a 32 inch bar if the log is 12 inched ,12 inches by the bar tip does the bucking ,with a good chain the paint won't even burn off the bar ,or overwork the clutch ,low rakers ,dull chains and cutting with felling dogs are clutch killers .
 

T.Roller

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I just use enough throttle to get the job done without over revving the saw ,some of my saws tune to 16k though ,if have to use the dogs in a cut your chain is dull ,i cut with the dogs several inches from the log ,with a 32 inch bar if the log is 12 inched ,12 inches by the bar tip does the bucking ,with a good chain the paint won't even burn off the bar ,or overwork the clutch ,low rakers ,dull chains and cutting with felling dogs are clutch killers .
I would rather tune my saw a bit rich, and run it wide open than run a saw at part throttle. They are not designed for that.
 
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