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Shanesaw80

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Another option is to bore a pocket for the second wedge right above or below the first wedge. Same as your method, in that the wedge won't slip against the wood. You do lose the kerf width of total lift potential, and you need to make the pocket deep enough to accommodate the wedge, but it does help keep them both in there.

This method works great, just make sure to have two wedges offset from each other in your initial cut. If you have only one set and the tree still has a backward lean you run the risk of the tree sitting back and pinching your bar as you’re bore cutting through it. By having the second wedge set to the side of the first one it will hold your tree in place.

Also if you bore below your initial wedge instead of above it will save wood if your cutting for merch timber. Also your wedge will stay in the stump instead of going with the tree as it falls, doesn’t affect how the tree falls but may make it easier getting your wedge back depending on where you’re cutting.
 

Drptrch

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Think they left too much holding wood
ae3ee6715fb8f1243bc051a91fd269bc.jpg

Luckily unoccupied Sidewalk dining area
a03fce040720aec41063195ba66d7ea4.jpg



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chipper1

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Think they left too much holding wood
ae3ee6715fb8f1243bc051a91fd269bc.jpg

Luckily unoccupied Sidewalk dining area
a03fce040720aec41063195ba66d7ea4.jpg



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Hate it when that happens. Imagine if you were on that ladder :eek:.
Here's a black locust back leaner I step cut and pulled with the tractor.
Screen Shot 2021-01-08 at 10.49.05 PM.png Screen Shot 2021-01-08 at 10.50.13 PM.png
 

davidwyby

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So...if you wanted maaaaax hinge hang time, how? Nevermind trying to keep wood in the log such as in a logging situation. Kinda crazy but what about multiple face and back cuts?


check out this funky old tamarix

Novice at falling, left a lot of hinge and pulled it over.

07032FA0-893F-4504-A216-525774AACBA4.jpeg CAD8EE2C-A68B-46CF-965E-D617EF1B0F9A.jpeg
 

Skeans1

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So...if you wanted maaaaax hinge hang time, how? Nevermind trying to keep wood in the log such as in a logging situation. Kinda crazy but what about multiple face and back cuts?


check out this funky old tamarix

Novice at falling, left a lot of hinge and pulled it over.

View attachment 277661 View attachment 277662

If I wanted something that has maximum time on the stump I’ll normally be looking at a face that looks something like this.
406f88c05de890739ae9fd6cd544567a.jpg

23db3506d7ccb8be7ed0574b89036c24.jpg



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Skeans1

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Wolverine

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Would of a deeper face help vs the 1/4 way in?
Just a firewood hoarder, so you would know better than I. I wanted to mill it, so the least amount of waist was my goal. It took quite the tug too. I was surprised.
DSC07022.JPG
DSC01337.JPG

P210815_11.15_[01].jpg P210815_11.15.jpg


This one was leaning heavily to about 12:00 in this pic. I made it go a bit to the left.
gopr0176.jpg
 
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Skeans1

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Just a firewood hoarder, so you would know better than I. I wanted to mill it, so the least amount of waist was my goal. It took quite the tug too. I was surprised.
View attachment 277699
View attachment 277694

View attachment 277696 View attachment 277697


This one was leaning heavily to about 12:00 in this pic. I made it go a bit to the left.
View attachment 277698

That would depend on what it looks like to start with, also without being there I can’t say. If it’s that “snag” those can be fun no matter what sometimes a deep and steep face can help. One thing I’d get into the habit of is a humboldt face, your stumps are more then tall enough then there’s less waste from the log it will be left in the stump. If I’m production cutting oversized wood 32”+ my stumps will normally be below my knee I’ll start the sight cut in on my knees, the face I’ll kick as much of the dirt out of the front for the bar and power head to clear. When doing the back cut I’ll do a small step an inch or so that way I can hopefully just slick off the butt of the log.


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