just starting out in chainsaw milling

[quietfly]

Hey Guys,
I'm just starting out in chainsaw milling, and i'm overwhelmed by the amount of info out there. I've have attempted to soak up every piece of info i can find on various other reputable, or in-famous boards.
My main purpose would be to mill small logs no larger than 24 inches, and make boards that are 13 to 15 by how ever long the log would be, to provide me with an abundant "free/cheap" supply of wood for projects.

Based on this would a panther mill II 30 inch be suitable for short boarding work? I've also looked at the
Granberg 777 & the Granberg MK-III. Panther looks bare bones but solid. I'm looking at picking up a used stihl 044 or a husky 281, or 390 as a mill saw. (edit , actually right now a 084 is at the top of the list for my milling choice)

I'm not sure what bar and chain i'll use, as again the amount of information is just staggering. i was leaning towards a ripping milling chain like the Oregon 72RD, but the low pro 3/8's chain supposedly being up to 30% faster also has some appeal.
I'll mostly be milling Maple as that's whats available to me here with some beech and Sassafras thrown in on occasion.

I figure i'd like to do it right, however i'd also not want this to be the start of a Divorce due to spending.
I appreciated any and all advice.
thanks!
-Chris

 

[Wolverine]

Hi Chris, welcome to the fray!
I'm kinda new to millin' myself but I have some insight to share. I've been using the Granberg MKIII. One difference with it and the Panther is weight. Bending over and picking it and the saw up alot takes a toll. Granberg is aluminum vs. steel Panther. I've been using a borrowed granberg and I like it so much that I ordered my own last evening in 48"(found @ $225ish). I figure it'd be best to go larger than expected. Right now my longest bar is 36" but if you get that one large job and need the extra width, it'd be nice to have. I'm a little short on bar for my current log.

 

[Wolverine]

The 394 has been a hoss of a saw milling. It oils great, chuggs through everything I've thrown @ it. I'd recommend giving it (or 395) some consideration. They can be had for not a boat load of cash if you find a non-looker.

Here we are on a hunk of maple, almost maxed on my bar.

 

[quietfly]

Hey Wolverine, Love the avatar, looks a lot like Logan's original mask.
What type of chain are you using?

 

[HighSierras]

Panther looks solid and people seem to be happy with them. It's going to be heavier, which is fine while you're milling, but takes its toll lugging it around. I have a Granberg with two sets of rails and switch out rails and bars on my saw, depending on what I'm milling. Shorter bars and chains are cheaper and easier to maintain.

I like Stihl chain the best, but the WoodlandPro, which is re-branded Carlton, is also very good and much cheaper. I run full-skip and start with the stock/30 degree cutters and gradually drop them to 15 or 20 degrees as I sharpen. 30 degrees mills fine; chain sharpness and depth-gauge height are much more important than top plate angle.

 

[Wolverine]

I have a loop of Stihl RSF. Full chisel that is square filed, angles are not changed for milling and I've been very pleasantly surprised how well it is doing the job and holding an edge.

 

[Guido Salvage]

I have owned a Granberg and a Frick 01 sawmill, any milling I do in the future will be on a band mill.

 

[czar800]

I'm some what new to milling also. I started with Stihl RS chain out of the box it work good. If your tight on cash you can mill without a milling chain.

I did end up buying some woodlandpro chains and I like them. I couldn't see grinding my RS chain when woodlandpro is affordable.

The thing that made milling easier for me was this rail set up. I copied someone else idea and it works great.its so easy the rail just sits in the brackets. One could use angle iron also.

I only have a 36" bar and it gets small really fast!! So bigger is better!

 

[czar800]

Forgot to say welcome!!

 

[Wolverine]

Old aluminum ladder or a 2x6/8 works good too.

 

[quietfly]

Thanks for the info Info Czar800, that's a great idea for a first cut rail.

 

[quietfly]

Old aluminum ladder or a 2x6/8 works good too.
View attachment 10487 View attachment 10486

nothing like a big ole pile of saw dust.... well except maybe a big ole pile of saw dust and a beer.....

 

[lumberjackchef]

Welcome and sounds like you got the bug! Good responses with a lot of good advice. One thing I will add to this discussion would be that 084 on the top of your list is a nice powerhead for milling . Most say the older 084 cylinder porting produced a much more powerful saw than the current 088/880's. However, it is one heck of a hard saw to find parts for. just search Evilbay for a muffler, starter assembly, or oil pump assembly and you'll see pretty quick what I'm talking about. I have built and repaired several. They were long projects though because once I found the actual part I needed, I would have to do a fund raiser(sell more saws) to be able to afford it! The PTO bearing for the crank on the one I'm working on now is about $70 alone! 394/95 Husky are always a good choice. Good power, can be purchased for not a fortune , and most all of the parts are still readily available.

My first mill was homebrewed and just used me a 2x for a guide beam!Saw was a 61 Husky and waaaaay underpowered so I moved up to this.................ported 066 w/48" Granburg.

Much Faster But it still takes forever on hardwoods this wide and long.....these are Pin oak slabs-
8'x24-36" on a few of the widest ones


Here's a couple of slabs of catalpa that I milled with a 2100 CD Husky and used to carve this sign below~!

It is a sickness! Got to watch the pocket book or be creative and either buy smart or fabricate some of your own stuff to save a few bucks but Be sure and post some pics of your progress lot to see pics!!!

 

[lumberjackchef]

I'm some what new to milling also. I started with Stihl RS chain out of the box it work good. If your tight on cash you can mill without a milling chain.

I did end up buying some woodlandpro chains and I like them. I couldn't see grinding my RS chain when woodlandpro is affordable.

The thing that made milling easier for me was this rail set up. I copied someone else idea and it works great.its so easy the rail just sits in the brackets. One could use angle iron also.

I only have a 36" bar and it gets small really fast!! So bigger is better!

View attachment 10485

I like the rail set up . It's a lot simpler than the one I made, which in this case makes it better, and lighter! I will try to get some pics of it up . Oh it is adjustable however and that can be an advantage on logs that have a wandering pith. Those logs in your pic however are primo ! Nice score there buddy. Those I would probably have thrown on my Bandmill and quarter sawn.......

 

[Terry Hennessy]

Hey Guys,
I'm just starting out in chainsaw milling, and i'm overwhelmed by the amount of info out there. I've have attempted to soak up every piece of info i can find on various other reputable, or in-famous boards.
My main purpose would be to mill small logs no larger than 24 inches, and make boards that are 13 to 15 by how ever long the log would be, to provide me with an abundant "free/cheap" supply of wood for projects.

Based on this would a panther mill II 30 inch be suitable for short boarding work? I've also looked at the
Granberg 777 & the Granberg MK-III. Panther looks bare bones but solid. I'm looking at picking up a used stihl 044 or a husky 281, or 390 as a mill saw. (edit , actually right now a 084 is at the top of the list for my milling choice)

I'm not sure what bar and chain i'll use, as again the amount of information is just staggering. i was leaning towards a ripping milling chain like the Oregon 72RD, but the low pro 3/8's chain supposedly being up to 30% faster also has some appeal.
I'll mostly be milling Maple as that's whats available to me here with some beech and Sassafras thrown in on occasion.

I figure i'd like to do it right, however i'd also not want this to be the start of a Divorce due to spending.
I appreciated any and all advice.
thanks!
-Chris

The Lo-Pro is recommended by Logosol, but limited to 24-inch bars by most; (some say) "doesn't fit regular 3/8 bar/ sprockets", requires different bars/ sprockets; (some say) wears (same) bars/ sprockets differently, so use separate equipment, can't swap used bars/ sprockets. The 63PMX Stihl pico (LoPro) seems to run at the higher Granberg/ Oregon prices, and I (and many others) run the lower priced Woodland Pro (30RP) for the 3/8x050. I would love to see user comparison between 30RP and 72RD...
- On the mill, anything that gets you off your knees without injuring your back while lifting is a big boon. Luck to you

 

[TundraRider]

I am new to chainsaw milling as well. I will be following this and soaking up as much information as I can. I have a bandsaw mill that I played around with a little when I first got it, but I scored a sweet deal on a Granberg and a 394 husky so I would like to play with that a little too.

 

[LowVolt]

New to milling also. My BIL bought a panther mill and yes it does have some weight. The plus side to steel is you can weld and fabric to adding mods is easier. The panther mill needs a few mods after using it out of the box. I welded all the nuts to the frame so you don't have to hold both sides. This helps with easier adjusting. I also welded on a push handle in the center of the mill. And lastly I welded on a couple of slide plates to help the mill move easier over bark. I think some people add a wheel but I had some metal that worked well and figured I try this first. I will post up some pics when I get a chance.

 

[quietfly]

New to milling also. My BIL bought a panther mill and yes it does have some weight. The plus side to steel is you can weld and fabric to adding mods is easier. The panther mill needs a few mods after using it out of the box. I welded all the nuts to the frame so you don't have to hold both sides. This helps with easier adjusting. I also welded on a push handle in the center of the mill. And lastly I welded on a couple of slide plates to help the mill move easier over bark. I think some people add a wheel but I had some metal that worked well and figured I try this first. I will post up some pics when I get a chance.

cool i look forward to your pictures. I just got my Mill on Monday, and i have yet to have the chance to put it together. I'm hoping to get a chance to do it tomorrow. I did have the chance to run the 084 through a few pieces of maple, OMG the thing is a beast.

 

[quietfly]

My first attempt at milling sassafras. The 084 cut through it like butter.

 

[exSW]

I have owned a Granberg and a Frick 01 sawmill, any milling I do in the future will be on a band mill.

I kinda miss our old #1. But that old *b-word was work.