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FergusonTO35

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Sweet, will keep that in mind. Now, please explain to me the deal about putting a 346 muffler bracket on this saw.
 

FergusonTO35

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The Jonny is on schedule to arrive this afternoon. I've already ordered an 18" Oregon Pro Lite bar and 20LPX chain for it. Hopefully everything will be GTG on it, this recent attack of CAD is getting expensive!
 

FergusonTO35

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The 2150 showed up today and I ripped open the package soon as I got home. It looks even nicer in person than the pics showed. Looks like it hasn't been used much or the previous owner actually cared about it. The bar and chain appear to be factory. Tonight I will dig deeper into it and add it to the fleet in the garage in a subtle manner so the wifey doesn't suspect a new arrival.;)
 

FergusonTO35

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Got into the 2150 some before work today and it definitely hasn't been used much. The bar and chain are original and dull as dull can be. Surprisingly, not much saw dust caked inside it. The mesh air filter is quite clean, the spark plug has a nice coffee color to it. The carb screws are fully adjustable although the limiters are still there. I think the carb makers have been giving EPA the bird with limiters that just take a bit of extra twist to overcome. Probably helps keep down the warranty claims for fried engines too.

She starts and runs easily and has that nice lopey top fuel sound at idle. Of course, with the dull chain it's cutting nothing fast but the bar does oil quite well. The chain appears to be an Oregon VP series and is .058 gauge. They work ok in my experience but not something I would want to spend an hour filing on in hopes of getting more use out of it. When the 20 LPX bar and chain show up I'm going to give it a proper test drive with the tachometer.
 

Dub11

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Got into the 2150 some before work today and it definitely hasn't been used much. The bar and chain are original and dull as dull can be. Surprisingly, not much saw dust caked inside it. The mesh air filter is quite clean, the spark plug has a nice coffee color to it. The carb screws are fully adjustable although the limiters are still there. I think the carb makers have been giving EPA the bird with limiters that just take a bit of extra twist to overcome. Probably helps keep down the warranty claims for fried engines too.

She starts and runs easily and has that nice lopey top fuel sound at idle. Of course, with the dull chain it's cutting nothing fast but the bar does oil quite well. The chain appears to be an Oregon VP series and is .058 gauge. They work ok in my experience but not something I would want to spend an hour filing on in hopes of getting more use out of it. When the 20 LPX bar and chain show up I'm going to give it a proper test drive with the tachometer.
Whats stamped on the top of the cylinder a 44 or 45? Does it have removable transfer covers? Plastic intake clamp?
 

FergusonTO35

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Stamped 45. Plastic intake clamp that is still tight. Don't know how to tell about the transfer covers, will post some pics when I get a chance.
 

FergusonTO35

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Got the Jonny out to try on the noodle pile today. I think someone filed the chain with a 7/32 file, the inside radius on the cutters looked awfully big. I sharpened it with the correct 3/16 file and got it back in shape. Started it up and it was four cycling big time at WOT (air filter is clean). Required a full half turn on the H screw to get it back to what sounded like a normal speed. I noodled some to get it warmed up, then hooked up the tach to get the numbers. It idles nicely at around 2800 RPM and accelerates easily. I adjusted the H needle so it runs WOT at around 11,800 which seems reasonable to me and made decent power noodling. The manual says 9000 rpm under load, I don't know what the rated max rpm is supposed to be. Very happy with this saw so far, will post some pics when my phone decides to start cooperating again!
 

Dub11

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Got the Jonny out to try on the noodle pile today. I think someone filed the chain with a 7/32 file, the inside radius on the cutters looked awfully big. I sharpened it with the correct 3/16 file and got it back in shape. Started it up and it was four cycling big time at WOT (air filter is clean). Required a full half turn on the H screw to get it back to what sounded like a normal speed. I noodled some to get it warmed up, then hooked up the tach to get the numbers. It idles nicely at around 2800 RPM and accelerates easily. I adjusted the H needle so it runs WOT at around 11,800 which seems reasonable to me and made decent power noodling. The manual says 9000 rpm under load, I don't know what the rated max rpm is supposed to be. Very happy with this saw so far, will post some pics when my phone decides to start cooperating again!

It can be higher and tune by ear.images (11).jpgAnd the shiny part is the removable covers.

It probably has a dished piston so when you replace the intake boot clamp put a flat top if need be and a muffler mod and she'll be a screamer!
 

FergusonTO35

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Thanks, I will keep that in mind. So, you don't worry about what the tach says but tune by ear? You adjust to where it cuts fastest? Without a tach, I would always adjust the H screw to where it seemed to have the most power and then richened a bit for safety.
 

Dub11

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Thanks, I will keep that in mind. So, you don't worry about what the tach says but tune by ear? You adjust to where it cuts fastest? Without a tach, I would always adjust the H screw to where it seemed to have the most power and then richened a bit for safety.
yup just to the point of it 4 stroking. The tac I have is crappy for tuning. The refresh rate is slooooooow
 

Simondo

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Got the Jonny out to try on the noodle pile today. I think someone filed the chain with a 7/32 file, the inside radius on the cutters looked awfully big. I sharpened it with the correct 3/16 file and got it back in shape. Started it up and it was four cycling big time at WOT (air filter is clean). Required a full half turn on the H screw to get it back to what sounded like a normal speed. I noodled some to get it warmed up, then hooked up the tach to get the numbers. It idles nicely at around 2800 RPM and accelerates easily. I adjusted the H needle so it runs WOT at around 11,800 which seems reasonable to me and made decent power noodling. The manual says 9000 rpm under load, I don't know what the rated max rpm is supposed to be. Very happy with this saw so far, will post some pics when my phone decides to start cooperating again!
Your fine at about 1000rpm higher than that (11800 rpm) at WOT free rpm ...13000 rpm max if you go by the book.
The 9000 rpm under load is a misleading figure in practice as its just a rating measure point for a output ...the top rpm figure gives you the proper settings through the rev band (as long as there is no air leak) .
 

FergusonTO35

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Got my 18" bar, chain, and fleece air filter last night and put them on. I decided to grease the sprocket bearing while I was at it. I installed the piston stop tool in the cylinder and gave the clutch a few forward taps with a hammer and punch. That sucker is on there good, after a few more taps I decided to leave well enough alone. I read that you can grease the bearing by squirting grease through the hole in the center of the crank. I did this, can't really tell if any grease made it in there or not. No grease came out of the drum hub, the bearing did seem a little more lubed though. Are clutches on these saws normally hard to remove? With all my others, a few taps from the punch and it comes off. Should I get an actual tool for it? My Echo tool doesn't fit.
 

Dub11

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Got my 18" bar, chain, and fleece air filter last night and put them on. I decided to grease the sprocket bearing while I was at it. I installed the piston stop tool in the cylinder and gave the clutch a few forward taps with a hammer and punch. That sucker is on there good, after a few more taps I decided to leave well enough alone. I read that you can grease the bearing by squirting grease through the hole in the center of the crank. I did this, can't really tell if any grease made it in there or not. No grease came out of the drum hub, the bearing did seem a little more lubed though. Are clutches on these saws normally hard to remove? With all my others, a few taps from the punch and it comes off. Should I get an actual tool for it? My Echo tool doesn't fit.

I made a tool for mine and I use rope for a piston stop out of fear of stripping plug threads.
 

Simondo

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Got my 18" bar, chain, and fleece air filter last night and put them on. I decided to grease the sprocket bearing while I was at it. I installed the piston stop tool in the cylinder and gave the clutch a few forward taps with a hammer and punch. That sucker is on there good, after a few more taps I decided to leave well enough alone. I read that you can grease the bearing by squirting grease through the hole in the center of the crank. I did this, can't really tell if any grease made it in there or not. No grease came out of the drum hub, the bearing did seem a little more lubed though. Are clutches on these saws normally hard to remove? With all my others, a few taps from the punch and it comes off. Should I get an actual tool for it? My Echo tool doesn't fit.
They can be....I am not a fan of piston stops and use a air wrench when at all posable (with the pull start cover off). Just a short "Brrrrap pulse" shifts most saw clutches iv worked on...Leave the plug in to make use of the compression resistance . I suggest you get the proper clutch tool as you will need to remove the clutch at some point.They fit snug and put the pressure right in the middle of the unit rather than at the edge with a punch .Correct on the grease point...mostly overlooked ! shame as its a nice touch by Husq/J red.
 
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