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MustangMike

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More like .75 lb, but if you limb with it, you will notice the difference.

The 460 has a larger case and heavier crank, so it is easier to get more torque out of a ported 460, but the recent hybrids seem to run very strong.
 

drf256

Dr. Richard Cranium
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So I have a question - maybe a stupid one.

What is gained by going with an 044/046 or 440/460 hybrid over just a 046 or 460 or 461? I am genuinely curious.
I’ve told a few that they made an updated 1128 case with a stronger crank and more metal, also more Case capacity. They even added a poly flywheel to save some weight.

They called it an “046”

Definitely add another $200 to a standard port job. A lot more work in Jug fitment, muff spacing, fitting covers, etc... plus parts.

Pretty much coolness factor and extra zip from lighter rotating assembly and tighter case compression.

Nothing wrong with an 046, they didn’t make it for no reason. It’s really not that much bigger and heavier empty, but case and tank hold more fluids. I’m not sure on the exact figure.
 

drf256

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I’m curious of your order of assembly. Why do you install the muffler before completing a vac/press test?
I usually Vac test all. It’s a bit of a waste of time in this one as it’s all new OEM, the seals were installed correctly with factory tools, and even the case halves has Dirko applied before the oem gasket was placed there.

Plus, 044 design can leak at the crank spacer and make one chase their tail.

Not saying it’s optimal not to test, but I did all the building and all the work. I think I’ll be ok. If it acts like a leak, it will take me 15 min to check it out.
 

Deets066

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I usually Vac test all. It’s a bit of a waste of time in this one as it’s all new OEM, the seals were installed correctly with factory tools, and even the case halves has Dirko applied before the oem gasket was placed there.

Plus, 044 design can leak at the crank spacer and make one chase their tail.

Not saying it’s optimal not to test, but I did all the building and all the work. I think I’ll be ok. If it acts like a leak, it will take me 15 min to check it out.
I wouldn’t test it either, I only vac test saws if I have an issue
 

drf256

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Looks new
Tank is AM. I’ve located the correct decals. I know that sounds dumb, but I enjoy the factory look and it wasn’t much more expense or time. That is, until it starts to leak.

This particular build is for a guy who tend to be a collector. The point was to make him a saw he could actually use at a lower cost point than an all oem one. The powder shouldn’t rub off and the other parts won’t break the bank to replace. The plastics are all AM, but the guts all oem, even the trigger in the tank. They have been modded and decaled to look oem.
 

drf256

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I wouldn’t test it either, I only vac test saws if I have an issue
I vac test every saw I port if it’s all used, cause it’s a cat in the bag and it’s well worth the time investment.

Guys tend to send saws and overlook any problems. Some honestly think that the redo of the cylinder will fix the running issues-this is rarely the case.

I’ve yet to have an all new build leak. I only go oem on the case parts and bearings as the cost is nearly all labor. One looks at saving a whopping $30 using AM parts there. Would you build a house on a straw foundation?
 

hseII

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I vac test every saw I port if it’s all used, cause it’s a cat in the bag and it’s well worth the time investment.

Guys tend to send saws and overlook any problems. Some honestly think that the redo of the cylinder will fix the running issues-this is rarely the case.

I’ve yet to have an all new build leak. I only go oem on the case parts and bearings as the cost is nearly all labor. One looks at saving a whopping $30 using AM parts there. Would you build a house on a straw foundation?

Last Name Pig, 1st name “the fist little.”


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