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Hutzl stihl 390 replacement engine question

DND 9000

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Oh and does anyone know were I can get one of these...it's the part that covers the decompression valve hole...the saw I just rebuilt does t have the piece and I can't find a PN on the IPL.....it's very strange

The part you are looking for is 1127 084 7400 Grommet. It`s on Illustration J Handle Housing of the IPL part no. 10.
 

Khntr85

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The part you are looking for is 1127 084 7400 Grommet. It`s on Illustration J Handle Housing of the IPL part no. 10.
Thank ou sir....see my ipl doesn't have it...
IMG_2319.PNG
 

a. palmer jr.

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I would and if your doing that swap the circlips from the 290 there a nother week point
I think some of us agreed to try some Echo circlips, the ones with the two short ears in place of the Chinese ones. I believe the 590 Echo clips are the same size or so I was told..
 

67L36Driver

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Cobey: Save the crank out of the roasted one ifffn its good.

I have one here with the flywheel threads broken off.
 

cobey

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Cobey: Save the crank out of the roasted one ifffn its good.

I have one here with the flywheel threads broken off.
I'll save it, idk how bad it is
The bearings àre real bad, the piston was black
 

Terry Syd

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Heres those holes I was rambling on about

I just don't drill it, I stick a Dremel bit in there and open it up as much as possible. Not only does it allow the airflow through, but it also reduces the amount of metal that can expand and push inward on the cylinder. Those jugs (029-390) tend to seize in that spot from the extra heat and less clearance during a hard run.

Open up the air flow and no more problem.
 

Terry Syd

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I agree about the Chinese decomp valve, it was garbage and I replaced it with OEM (which in Oz was A$33!). I also use a Chinese 066 coil with the 4 degree retard for starting (A$20)

You can bump up the ignition timing without any starting issues. No starting drill, just hit the decomp and pull - no kickback and easy starting.
 

DND 9000

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@Khntr85

I see it`s not in your IPL :confundio1:, maybe there are different versions. Have a look on my attachment and you will see the part that I mean.
 

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  • IPL MS 290, 310, 390 (3-2012).pdf
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cobey

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Well I guess you get what you pay for......
Brokenjoy impulse nipple, and a bent fin.
Someone getting crappy feed back
 

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Khntr85

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@Khntr85

I see it`s not in your IPL :confundio1:, maybe there are different versions. Have a look on my attachment and you will see the part that I mean.


Ya maybe it's old I have never not been able to find a part before....


I use my phone to look at Internet and I can't bring that link up, but I will use the part number you gave me at my parts dealer, thanks
 

cobey

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The seller had the whole motor
Wrapped in bubble wrap in a thin
Plastic envelope. ....
Farmertek gets suck points
 

stihl_head1982

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I've done several and will use em again. But...

1. Had a pto bearing failure using farmertec bearings. That may have been related to a slightly loose fitment of the bearing in the AM engine pan. On the next build up I used Nachis and an oem pan. It didn't completely fail... noticed it during routine maintenance.
2. I use Cabers. The farmertec rings are probably ok but make for a tricky install (easy to break).
3. Use the best quality sealant and be sure to degrease everything before applying. Wash and blow out the p/c, too.

Had a failure on the crank shaft bearings on a recent kit as well. Pain to have to tear down the whole saw again. When it goes back together it will get Nachi's and an OEM crank shaft and pan.

The engine kit I have had tapped engine bolts with allen head's. (These chinese bolts are soft!) The oem bolts have T27 torx and are self tapping.
 

cobey

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Do you all put sealer around your seals also?
 

stihl_head1982

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Do you all put sealer around your seals also?
yes, around the outside of the seals. I put a very thin coat of yamabond on these seals. I also thinly coat the bottom pan area on that side (that takes care of that area well).
 

fearofpavement

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How do these nipples come out???
You'll probably need to pull the cylinder. They can be tapped out from the inside with a proper size pin punch. Seat the new one with a proper sized 1/4" drive deep well socket and a hammer.
 
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