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Hutzl MS660 build and observations

YZ250

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Ok, so lucky I’m anonymous online so I don’t feel too much like a goose for my oil pump cock up. As predicted above, the tapered cylindrical o ring was completely missing and I had actually put silastic on the inlet side of the pump. I took the opportunity while in there to do the oil pump mod as described on this forum so hopefully I get more flow. Well at least better than zero flow.

I tell you what though - getting that E clip off to remove the clutch was impossible. I had to cut it off with a dremel. I think I may have also got some of that clutch install wrong - can someone share some picture of how the clutch parts go in - particularly the thin black washer that goes over the worm drive for the oil pump? It looks like it goes on two ways and I suspect I had that wrong too which made the whole lot sit a touch too high.
 

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MustangMike

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That metal cover goes on so that it lays as flat as possible, it is contoured to fit over what it is covering.

Various washers/clips come with these kits. Some of them are just impossible to remove after installation, the washer just locks it in place.

Clips are cheap, don't worry about it.

The part you have the silicon on is not where you are leaking, you are missing the rubber that goes against the outlet (above that). It just looks like a short piece of cut off hose, and when you bolt the pump down it compresses against it. It is missing in you picture.
 

MustangMike

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Look at the small hole right next to the upper case bolt in pic #2. There should be a small rubber gasket in that hole.
 

YZ250

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Thanks Mike - I picked up the spares just now and will install tonight. Re the oil pickup line - can you have a look at the attached phone and confirm if I have installed it correctly? There is a little locating tab on the line, I was wondering if it should actually be hard up against the screw casting. I.E - in the photo attached I suspect the pickup line is installed incorrectly - what are your thoughts?
 

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MustangMike

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The tab should be in that void, but otherwise it looks OK.

Open the oil cap and make sure the oil line and filter run across the tank, if they do, I would leave that alone.

Did you install it from the outside or from the inside? I usually put a little Vaseline on it and install it from the outside.

(That stuff makes all rubber parts easier to install, and not as messy as grease)
 

YZ250

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"The tab should be in that void, but otherwise it looks OK"

Should it be in the void that also includes the screw? I.E if installed properly would the tab prevent a screwdriver being inserted? Or should it be in the void immediately to the right of the screw.

Ill look into the tank too.

PS installed it from the outside.
 

MustangMike

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I may be mixing 440/460/660, but I think that void where your arrow is should have a rubber tab (instead of being able to see the case).

It stops the oil pickup hose from rotating. You may have tucked it in.

You can generally pull that line out with needlenose pliers and check it.

The right angle bend always goes straight across, away from the crank.
 

YZ250

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"You can generally pull that line out with needlenose pliers and check it."

Yep, I did that and f*cked the hose (tore it). So i bought an OEM one at lunch today.

Thanks for the tips - i'll get this together tonight and see how we go.
 

YZ250

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All fixed now. I noticed that the OEM oil pickup seems to have a larger diameter bore than the farmertec one when I swapped them - so happy to replace it while I was in there. Oil pumps definitely pumping so now to put some tanks through to see how more I’m using post modification. Thanks everyone for the advice.

Ps mike - I tore the oil pick up all my own before I read your post. Apologies if it seemed I was taking a shot!
 

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I Know Something

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Stuff like this is why I respect this forum and and the people in it. So many times a man runs into another seeking knowledge and gets treated as if an imbecille for asking perceived basic questions. All of witch needs to be gone threw to advance in knowledge. I aploud the people here willing to teach. Otherwise, so many if us would be lost.
 

YZ250

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I bought the OEM parts in January of this year to resolve the common fast idle issue but didn’t put them in as the saw still started relatively easily. Starts immediately after popping with the choke on now though.

This was a cheap and easy fix that I would recommend new builders do straight away.


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MustangMike

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Ps mike - I tore the oil pick up all my own before I read your post. Apologies if it seemed I was taking a shot!

I did not think you were taking a shot, just sorry if my advice caused a problem. Seems like the OEM parts will resolve it.

Thanks for the photos.
 

MustangMike

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All fixed now. I noticed that the OEM oil pickup seems to have a larger diameter bore than the farmertec one when I swapped them - so happy to replace it while I was in there. Oil pumps definitely pumping so now to put some tanks through to see how more I’m using post modification. Thanks everyone for the advice.

Ps mike - I tore the oil pick up all my own before I read your post. Apologies if it seemed I was taking a shot!

That photo looks like they may have given you the wrong part in your kit, the tab does not seem to be in the right place. In 2 of my 440 kits they gave me the wrong brake flags, drove me crazy trying to get them to work (when I figured out the problem, I just ordered replacements).
 

drf256

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I bought the OEM parts in January of this year to resolve the common fast idle issue but didn’t put them in as the saw still started relatively easily. Starts immediately after popping with the choke on now though.

This was a cheap and easy fix that I would recommend new builders do straight away.


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It’s amazing what a slight change will do.

The headaches of AM parts make them not worth it to me. Wastes a lot of time.

Not trying to bash the thread. I realize many carb cant afford the real deal.
 

Jimmy in NC

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It’s amazing what a slight change will do.

The headaches of AM parts make them not worth it to me. Wastes a lot of time.

Not trying to bash the thread. I realize many carb cant afford the real deal.
I am there too Doc and especially if it's a customer saw. Now if it is my saw and I have no time limit to fiddle and tweak I may buy cheap parts. Saws are nothing but a hobby I do not need to me. I do not burn wood. I live in a suburban yard. No need at all. So if I spend 2 hrs of my time when I get around to it to make a cover fit.. I am ok with it.
 

MustangMike

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I was at Doc's place and we were working on a 440 clone (w/OEM crank, cyl + piston) when we could not get the brake flag to work.

Thinking the problem was in the linkage, we spent a couple of hours trying to get the Da** thing to work, to no avail. We ended up running it w/o a working chain brake, and we then only had limited time left to play.

It was only later, when I got home and ripped it apart and compared it to other ones I had that I realized they gave me the wrong brake flag. Many other issues have also been documented by many of us with these clones (like pinched impulse lines causing problems running and bad carbs, etc).

As a result, I fully agree with Doc's assessment.

But I'm semi retired (so I have more time), I don't try to make money working on saws (it is just a hobby for me) and the Asian kits have allowed me to learn a bit about porting w/o breaking the bank, and have enabled me to bring some saws back to life that would not have been possible with the cost of OEM parts.

I noted they made some improvements to the 660 kits, and I hope this continues across the board. However, I think quality control will be an ongoing problem, such as getting the wrong brake flag in 2 of 6 440 kits. It is just something you have to be willing to deal with if you choose to play with one of these kits.
 
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