Husqy 350 45mm build help

[Landmark]

Ok so i started a new thread about a friends grandfather's husky 350 he took in for seals at local dealer. I pressure ckd after a tank or so threw it and it leaks air like crazy around both seals and base plate. I have never been this deep in this type saw so is this orange silicone oem and are these seals oem? I sent am seals with him to deal and they were either blue or grey as memory serves me. Perhaps deal used oem stuff instead? Who knows. Anyway, what type of sealant do i use to reassemble the base? I generally use 4bond when deleting gaskets but will that work here. Any help is appreciated and i know alot of you guys have built these so chime in please. Also can i reuse bearings if they are good?

 

[Chainganger]

ok, I am not an expert but I have rebuilt one and have one torn apart and clean for a rebuild. My experience has been:

1: OEM sealant was an ivory color, not red.

2: Original crank bearing seals were brown. Seals are so stuck to the bearings that trying to reuse either is a waste of time.

3: New crank bearings and seals are cheap compared to the labor you have into it, get new. Lots of info here on how to mate the seals to the bearings, it is a tight fit. I think you can buy OEM already mated to one another but that is pretty spendy.

4: I used Permatex Motoseal on the recommendation of others here, it is more impervious to fuel but you want to go thin with it, because excess sealant could come loose on the inside and mess things up. Too early to vouch for its longevity. Others use an anerobic sealant (variant of loctite 515 or 518) for base gasket delete, but do not use it to try to seal the bottom of the bearing cap to plastic case, does not adhere to plastic. Tor confirmed this later in this thread.

5. Review everything MattyO has written or videoed about this to save yourself headaches down the road.
a. Remember the ground before mounting the bearing cover.
b. Remember to make a channel in the rear of the bearing cap for the impulse if applicable.
c. Remember to use new OEM metal boot clamp kit on manifold boot.
d. Remember that the manifold boot, etc., has to be mounted on the cylinder with your new OEM boot clamp kit BEFORE you bolt the cylinder to the bearing cap. I recommend getting a couple of those metal clamps to do this, I about stroked out trying to get mine to clamp properly.
d. Remember to use OEM circlips on the piston.
e. Remember to make sure all mounting bolts (bearing cap to base and cylinder to the bearing cap) are the correct thread (some variants are course, some variants are fine threaded) and the correct length before sealing up.
5. Get the muffler bracket and use it. Use new muffler gasket and make sure owner checks the muffler bolts often so muffler does not rattle loose and burn the case.
6. Because of heat around the muffler and cylinder, I bought and used 3M high temperature aluminum tape on the case around the cylinder and muffler before putting saw back together. Couldn't hurt
7. Review MattyO's wrtings and videos on after market vs OEM P&C kits before buying new, looks like that one is fried.
8. Muffler mod and gasket delete are easy to do, see MattyOs videoes.

 

[Tor R]

The oem sealant is white so that shop has done something, but Husky may have changed thge sealent thery used.
I'll see what is marked on my oem seal, but I think it's CFW.

Other then what is posted over me, sandpaper and place it on flat surface, sand the bottom of the bearing cup a bit, mine wasnt perfect and everything who is flat will help.

The muffler bracket you need come from 346,351,353, or JRed 2147,2149,2152,2153.
Use locktite on all bolts for bearing cup + muffler bolts.

What are this red/orange things to left on your first pic Dave?
And was you able to clean up the jug?

 

[Landmark]

The oem sealant is white so that shop has done something, but Husky may have changed thge sealent thery used.
I'll see what is marked on my oem seal, but I think it's CFW.

Other then what is posted over me, sandpaper and place it on flat surface, sand the bottom of the bearing cup a bit, mine wasnt perfect and everything who is flat will help.

The muffler bracket you need come from 346,351,353, or JRed 2147,2149,2152,2153.
Use locktite on all bolts for bearing cup + muffler bolts.

What are this red/orange things to left on your first pic Dave?
And was you able to clean up the jug?

Thanks for the tips guys. I have watched a few of @Mattyo videos and will continue to use them as references. The orange stuff piled up is the silicone the dealer used Tor. So i guess they had been in a tried to change the seals. Just a poor job i guess. So yamabond will not work on the base? I need to get somthing else? And i did hear Mattyo say use locktite that is fuel resistant.

 

[Mattyo]

Whatever that stuff is
...it's the wrong sealant.

Just get new bearings and seals

.....and watch my vids

Best of luck

Btw....awesome advice summary guys!

 

[Landmark]

Whatever that stuff is
...it's the wrong sealant.

Just get new bearings and seals

.....and watch my vids

Best of luck

Btw....awesome advice summary guys!

I have been and i have to pause them everytime you use your power tools. My T-handles can't keep up.

Btw thanks for the vids

 

[Landmark]

Can i reuse the bearings/seals or do i have to replace them. I believe they were installed new oem from the dealer who used the orange stuff. They probabaly dont have much on them.

 

[Chainganger]

The 350 conversion is not that hard now that others have been so kind to share their knowledge here. It is super fun and the saw a beast.

 

[Chainganger]

Can i reuse the bearings/seals or do i have to replace them. I believe they were installed new oem from the dealer who used the orange stuff. They probabaly dont have much on them.

That is your call.

Did he get or can he get an itemized invoice for parts and labor? Can that dealer be trusted?

You could always put saw together with correct sealant and pressure test and vacuum test before running.

 

[Landmark]

Dealer is not to be trusted to some extent. I have will pressure/vac test the saw before i send it out. I am trying to keep cost down enough to where he doesnt spend more on fixing than on the value of the saw. Exploring my options.

 

[Mattyo]

if they are new....or nearly new, i would use them personally.

CLEAN the base / plastic case well before installing the bearing cap.... whatever sealant you use HAS GOT TO BE FUEL RESISTANT SPECIFICALLY .... on the Brad Snelling one I just pulled apart he used loctite 515 or 518 for the base gasket delete. it was WELL stuck on there. i would do the exact same thing.... I used 515 at first, then switched to 518. I think i'll go back to 515... 518 is a little thicker.

also, filing / sandpaper FLAT the bottom of the bearing cap, it'll seal better against the plastic case.

blue loctite on the bearing cap / case bolts for sure.

you've got some great advice so far in this thread...love it

 

[Tor R]

Can i reuse the bearings/seals or do i have to replace them. I believe they were installed new oem from the dealer who used the orange stuff. They probabaly dont have much on them.

if you know they changed seal&bearing in the shop I would use them, the saw has under 10 tanks after they did the job.
Even they used sislicone sealant it should not start to leak so fast, for me it look more that they did lousy cleaning, or did not torque the bearing cup properly.

Sand the contact areas, try to straight sand the bearing cup, and clean the areas 100%.

Any sealant that is chemical resistance, it's also has to be able to be used on plastic, rubber and aluminium&magnesium. The sealant also has to be able to build tickness because in the split between plastic cage&bearing cup&seal seems to be thick on the 350 I have.
518 has limitied tickness and I will probleby use another sealant on my 350 due that reason.

 

[Onan18]

Does the shop work on a lot of Stihl stuff? That might be Dirko.

 

[Landmark]

Does the shop work on a lot of Stihl stuff? That might be Dirko.

no. the local stihl dealer is outstanding. they almost make me want to be a stihl guy, if only stihls would run like Huskys.

 

[David Young]

One thing as an absolute, clean every thing up. even the best stuff will be compromised with oil residue.

This is the biggest tip of all in my mind.

clean clean clean!

I recommend denatured alcohol and a fistful of q tips. really scrub it. you can feel it with your finger when it is oil free.

 

[Chainganger]

Data sheets for loctite 515 and 518 state "...not (normally?) recommended for use on plastics..."

Maybe OK for making a gasket between top of bearing cap and cylinder, not so much for between plastic base and lower part of bearing cap.

 

[Chainganger]

Aftermarket 346 is the deal of the day here, if you use it get a caber ring and OEM circlips.

 

[Onan18]

Aftermarket 346 is the deal of the day here, if you use it get a caber ring and OEM circlips.

Unless this is strictly a no budget (as in no money) build I wouldn't bother with an AM cylinder when an OEM 346 P&C is $101.86 at the local dealer.

Joe

 

[Landmark]

this is a repair for someone else so I doubt he will opt for a 346 kit. If I end up with the saw and then I might do something like that.

 

[paragonbuilder]

Thanks for the tips guys. I have watched a few of @Mattyo videos and will continue to use them as references. The orange stuff piled up is the silicone the dealer used Tor. So i guess they had been in a tried to change the seals. Just a poor job i guess. So yamabond will not work on the base? I need to get somthing else? And i did hear Mattyo say use locktite that is fuel resistant.

Yamabond is just fine Dave, it's fuel and oil resistant.