Husqvarna 562XP Ignition Timing

[srcarr52]

I just finished a couple of 562's and I was comparing them to my old EL44 carb work horse when I decided to try advancing the ignition timing. I was always under the impression that these saws really didn't need more timing and I was always a little skeptical of how the autotune would deal with it. The cut times don't lie, they were faster because I could push on the work chain much harder.

It did take a few throttle blips before the autotune had the throttle response back and it took a few cuts before they behaved. Even with older flashes they figured them selves out pretty quickly.

I ported both saws with very similar numbers.

 

[suttererman85]

How much did you advance it? I have a couple 562’s with el 46 carbs that run surprising well. Decked the cylinders a little bit and did a little port work to them.


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[srcarr52]

How much did you advance it? I have a couple 562’s with el 46 carbs that run surprising well. Decked the cylinders a little bit and did a little port work to them.


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1/2 the keyway.

 

[Deets066]

You do anything to the stratos Shawn?

 

[huskyboy]

I had a pretty good gain on my stock one just advancing it and muffler mod. Even Alan mentioned to me just a advance and muffler mod alone is a big part of the gain on them when I sent him mine to port.

 

[huskyboy]

Hey Shaun the el44 saw sounds different than the 48 saw. Did you mod the muffler differently or something?

 

[Backtroller]

Does the timing advance make the hot starting problem worse? Does that add more heat?

I was considering this, but mine seems to be ok with the el44 and the newer style cooling cut outs. I guess I could always return it to normal timing if it became a problem.

 

[smokey7]

The 545 thru 562 sure sound unique to me. I really like the way they run im just way to concerned about the strength of the strength of the bottom end (rotating assembly) i really dont care for the style of bearings they use and the short lifespan they seem to have. Another saw i dont like the bearing setup on is the 200t. Sure seems like the crank would eventually get worn and end up scrap. @srcarr52 do you think the bottom end of these saws will last as long as the 2xx and 3xx saws before it?

 

[huskihl]

The 545 thru 562 sure sound unique to me. I really like the way they run im just way to concerned about the strength of the strength of the bottom end (rotating assembly) i really dont care for the style of bearings they use and the short lifespan they seem to have. Another saw i dont like the bearing setup on is the 200t. Sure seems like the crank would eventually get worn and end up scrap. @srcarr52 do you think the bottom end of these saws will last as long as the 2xx and 3xx saws before it?

It's not so much the series of saw, but whether or not it's strato. The strato pistons are heavier and they are what takes out crankcase bearings

 

[huskyboy]

Does the timing advance make the hot starting problem worse? Does that add more heat?

I was considering this, but mine seems to be ok with the el44 and the newer style cooling cut outs. I guess I could always return it to normal timing if it became a problem.

Not for me, but I have the 48.

 

[Backtroller]

I’ll have to try it out. However, it’s only going to be highs in the 30-40s this time of year so that might not tell me much.

They do sound unique. I can’t get over how even a modest muffler mod really makes these saws loud. I want something to get the heat out yet not make my ears bleed lol.

 

[angelo c]

I’ll have to try it out. However, it’s only going to be highs in the 30-40s this time of year so that might not tell me much.

They do sound unique. I can’t get over how even a modest muffler mod really makes these saws loud. I want something to get the heat out yet not make my ears bleed lol.

I run "beats" earplugs and earmuffs over them. Soft smooth jazz and chainsaws....perfect together. The duplicity of the complex notes compliments the sweet sounds of the muff nodded saw.

 

[srcarr52]

You do anything to the stratos Shawn?

Yes, I always do a little work to the stratos. I find that the pistons can vary on the opening lip 0.005" per side and I've seen the bottom edge of the transfer port off 0.020" from either side. So I make sure they are the same. Also dropping the cylinder adds intake and strato duration.

Hey Shaun the el44 saw sounds different than the 48 saw. Did you mod the muffler differently or something?

The EL44 muffler has a larger exhaust deflector. It's actually too larger and burns the top cover slightly. They could also have different stock hole locations in the tube inside the muffler, so far I've seen a couple of variations of those. I always add a few more holes but the size and placement are dictated by what is there originally.

Does the timing advance make the hot starting problem worse? Does that add more heat?

I was considering this, but mine seems to be ok with the el44 and the newer style cooling cut outs. I guess I could always return it to normal timing if it became a problem.

I do a few things to combat the hot start issues. For one, I modify the top cover by cutting the lip out by the intake side of the cylinder. But I don't always add the extra hole on the top like Husky did in later versions. Also I put reflective heat tape on the cylinder side of the intake partition and on the top cover partition.

Muffler modding does help let a lot of heat out as well. I've never had a hot start problem on a normal day with just a muffler mod.

The 545 thru 562 sure sound unique to me. I really like the way they run im just way to concerned about the strength of the strength of the bottom end (rotating assembly) i really dont care for the style of bearings they use and the short lifespan they seem to have. Another saw i dont like the bearing setup on is the 200t. Sure seems like the crank would eventually get worn and end up scrap. @srcarr52 do you think the bottom end of these saws will last as long as the 2xx and 3xx saws before it?

I think the bottom end of these saws are plenty strong. I think 50:1 with cheap oil is what kills them. 40:1 with a good oil and I don't think they'll have many problems.

Between the crankcase stuffers, and it being a strato saw I think less oil gets to the bearings than older saws. Also they turn a lot more RPM than the 2 series saws. These are at 11.5-12 in the cut.

 

[huskyboy]

Yes, I always do a little work to the stratos. I find that the pistons can vary on the opening lip 0.005" per side and I've seen the bottom edge of the transfer port off 0.020" from either side. So I make sure they are the same. Also dropping the cylinder adds intake and strato duration.



The EL44 muffler has a larger exhaust deflector. It's actually too larger and burns the top cover slightly. They could also have different stock hole locations in the tube inside the muffler, so far I've seen a couple of variations of those. I always add a few more holes but the size and placement are dictated by what is there originally.



I do a few things to combat the hot start issues. For one, I modify the top cover by cutting the lip out by the intake side of the cylinder. But I don't always add the extra hole on the top like Husky did in later versions. Also I put reflective heat tape on the cylinder side of the intake partition and on the top cover partition.

Muffler modding does help let a lot of heat out as well. I've never had a hot start problem on a normal day with just a muffler mod.



I think the bottom end of these saws are plenty strong. I think 50:1 with cheap oil is what kills them. 40:1 with a good oil and I don't think they'll have many problems.

Between the crankcase stuffers, and it being a strato saw I think less oil gets to the bearings than older saws. Also they turn a lot more RPM than the 2 series saws. These are at 11.5-12 in the cut.

Thanks for taking the time to write your insight on these saws Shaun

 

[Farmchuck]

I’ll have to try it out. However, it’s only going to be highs in the 30-40s this time of year so that might not tell me much.

They do sound unique. I can’t get over how even a modest muffler mod really makes these saws loud. I want something to get the heat out yet not make my ears bleed lol.

I have a 550 I’d like to let breathe easier but I’m also not a fan of the noise. Any suggestions?

 

[Deets066]

I have a 550 I’d like to let breathe easier but I’m also not a fan of the noise. Any suggestions?

Cut the original deflector off an add a larger one in its place with a large single opening

 

[Backtroller]

That might be my next project. I ground under the deflector as large as I could make it while still having the stock deflector cover it.

 

[srcarr52]

I cut off the original opening as large as possible then gut the tube inlet under that to as large as possible. Then tig weld on a new deflector that only exists out the front. I also port match the muffler with the exhaust port and add a few holes in from the ex port through the large tube.

I don't think they get that much louder, they stay pretty deep toned and really push the noise away from the operator. I wouldn't want to be standing in front of one though even stock.

 

[EvilRoySlade]

Shaun, you think the 550 could benefit from the advance too?

 

[Deets066]

562 is the next saw on my list. Soon as I get these few done I’m doin now.