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Husqvarna 55 project

Bryan Barrow

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At the upstate NY GTG I acquired a Husqvarna 55 from @usmcbuckwild.
f9bf3e7223fdcc8c3601c12656c896a0.jpg
Now there’s a story behind this. My great grandfather bought a 55 brand new and when he passed away my grandfather got it. The saw had maybe 6 hours on it. My grandfather is coming with me to the CT GTG and I would like to have a few cant stand races with him. However, the reason he gave me the saw was to be the first saw I port. So after the CT GTG I’ll learn to port and modify and I’ll have a Husqvarna 55 ported work saw. This chainsaw community has done so much for me and taught me more then I could’ve learned on my own. I just want to thank everyone who’s helped me along the way and let you know there will be big things in this saw’s future. Cut safe guys!


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Stump Shot

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My first one was a 51 and I put an extra outlet ahead of the stock one, as for the cylinder. Widened the exhaust a bit not to exceed 65% of the bore diameter straight across. Then accentuate the lowering angle of departure and step down.(look at new saws for inspiration) Also keep the roof well arched for the rings to not snag. Remember its a loop scavenging type system like any other saw, do your best to help that along on the transfers. The intake doesn't need much of anything. Advance the timing about 6-8 degrees forward. Bevel all the ports you work on so as not to scuff your piston. Set your squish to as close to .020" as you can get by removing or changing the thickness of the base gasket. Seal up with a good 2 stroke sealant if deleting the gasket.
Have fun along the way, this is the most important part, the saw will run better and so will the next and the next and so on. It's the best way to learn by doing.
 

Bryan Barrow

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My first one was a 51 and I put an extra outlet ahead of the stock one, as for the cylinder. Widened the exhaust a bit not to exceed 65% of the bore diameter straight across. Then accentuate the lowering angle of departure and step down.(look at new saws for inspiration) Also keep the roof well arched for the rings to not snag. Remember its a loop scavenging type system like any other saw, do your best to help that along on the transfers. The intake doesn't need much of anything. Advance the timing about 6-8 degrees forward. Bevel all the ports you work on so as not to scuff your piston. Set your squish to as close to .020" as you can get by removing or changing the thickness of the base gasket. Seal up with a good 2 stroke sealant if deleting the gasket.
Have fun along the way, this is the most important part, the saw will run better and so will the next and the next and so on. It's the best way to learn by doing.

Very good information. Thank you. I’ll have to get a better Dremel first. Mine is a harbor freight cheapo


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cus_deluxe

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if you plan on doing more than one saw, id skip the dremel and get the harbor freight flexible shaft grinder. lots of guys out there have been using them for a while and have done many saws, and for about the same cost as a dremel kit. then you can add additional handpieces along the way.
 
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Honestly that HF dremel is fine. It doesn’t have to be a Foredom or anything crazy like that. The Dremel brand carbide bits actually work pretty darn good for $6 each.
D1EEE169-D63E-4293-9F67-BDF530939FA6.png

Make a mandrel to use for sanding. I use a long reach allen key; cut the short leg off, split the end down about 3/8-1/2” with a fine rotary cutoff wheel. Now you have a good mandrel with 6 sides to keep it from spinning. @Mastermind does the same with a 16 penny nail.

Most important thing is to have some fun! Learn, do some searching, educate yourself and then spread what you learn to others. Don’t be afraid to make a mistake! But, don’t make the mistakes that others already have. There is enough info here that with a little searching you should feel confidant once you get into it.
 

Dub11

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Check this one out. The little hand piece is handy.
Screenshot_20190506-111421_Chrome.jpg
 

redline4

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@Bryan Barrow I have a Husky 55 jug collecting dust under my bench.
It has some transfer. It may clean up.
If you want it as a practice porting piece, let me know.
 

USMC615

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At the upstate NY GTG I acquired a Husqvarna 55 from @usmcbuckwild.
f9bf3e7223fdcc8c3601c12656c896a0.jpg
Now there’s a story behind this. My great grandfather bought a 55 brand new and when he passed away my grandfather got it. The saw had maybe 6 hours on it. My grandfather is coming with me to the CT GTG and I would like to have a few cant stand races with him. However, the reason he gave me the saw was to be the first saw I port. So after the CT GTG I’ll learn to port and modify and I’ll have a Husqvarna 55 ported work saw. This chainsaw community has done so much for me and taught me more then I could’ve learned on my own. I just want to thank everyone who’s helped me along the way and let you know there will be big things in this saw’s future. Cut safe guys!


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That Jarhead is a pretty good fella for giving you a 55 to do your thing with. It's a learning curve but you'll get it down. Next time you see that Jarhead, give him a good, strong kick right in the sack for us.
 

Bryan Barrow

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That Jarhead is a pretty good fella for giving you a 55 to do your thing with. It's a learning curve but you'll get it down. Next time you see that Jarhead, give him a good, strong kick right in the sack for us.

I mentioned my wrestling team won states and he can tell the rest of the story. I may have played soccer my whole life but I’ll hold back that kick[emoji23]


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I mentioned my wrestling team won states and he can tell the rest of the story. I may have played soccer my whole life but I’ll hold back that kick[emoji23]


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I told him I don’t *f-word around with that “tough guy” bullschitt, he wants to beat my azz; i’ll just shoot him. Asked him how tough he would be after getting knee-capped in both legs. He looked pretty nervous.
 

Bryan Barrow

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I told him I don’t *f-word around with that “tough guy” bullschitt, he wants to beat my azz; i’ll just shoot him. Asked him how tough he would be after getting knee-capped in both legs. He looked pretty nervous.

I wasn’t nervous. We were just messing around[emoji23]


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Bryan Barrow

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So I cleaned the carb and was tuning it. I set the high then set the low. I then held the throttle and after a few seconds it would start to sputter, then come back, then sputtering more and come back, then die. No matter what I did, this happened. I put in a new fuel line and filter so those can’t be the issue


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Junk Meister

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Honestly that HF dremel is fine. It doesn’t have to be a Foredom or anything crazy like that. The Dremel brand carbide bits actually work pretty darn good for $6 each.
View attachment 180234

Make a mandrel to use for sanding. I use a long reach allen key; cut the short leg off, split the end down about 3/8-1/2” with a fine rotary cutoff wheel. Now you have a good mandrel with 6 sides to keep it from spinning. @Mastermind does the same with a 16 penny nail.

Most important thing is to have some fun! Learn, do some searching, educate yourself and then spread what you learn to others. Don’t be afraid to make a mistake! But, don’t make the mistakes that others already have. There is enough info here that with a little searching you should feel confidant once you get into it.
I used 7018 welding rod 1/8" knocked the flux off and made a slit But Wish I had used an allen key it would be MORE rigid
 

Billy Currie

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So I cleaned the carb and was tuning it. I set the high then set the low. I then held the throttle and after a few seconds it would start to sputter, then come back, then sputtering more and come back, then die. No matter what I did, this happened. I put in a new fuel line and filter so those can’t be the issue

If it is a stock carburetor and mostly stock saw, open the Low screw 1 turn and leave the High screw closed. Leaving the High screw closed will ensure that the High speed system is not effecting the Low speed adjustment. Start the saw and set the idle at 3,000 with the idle screw. Slowly turn in the low screw, what you are looking for is about a 200-250 RPM rise before the RPM falls off again. If the RPM rises more than that, then readjust the idle with the Low screw turned 3/4 turn out. If there is little to no rise while turning in the Low screw set the Low screw to 1 1/4 turns out and reset idle and recheck for RPM rise as you slowly screw in the Low screw. Note: with every Low screw adjustment you will need to reset the Idle RPM.

Once you have achieved a 200-250 RPM rise while turning in the Low screw move on to the High screw. Open the High screw 1 turn and check "wide open throttle" RPM. The MAX RPM for that saw Husqvarna publishes is 12,500 RPM. To increase the MAX RPM slowly turn in the High screw, to decrease the MAX RPM turn out the High screw.

There may be other successful ways to adjust the carburetor, but this is what works for me. Always adjust the Low screw and idle first as the Low jet continues to feed fuel at "wide open throttle", then move on to the High.
 
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