High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

Husqvarna 55 closed port

kyle.kipple

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Went to the flea market last weekend and noticed a 55 on a shelf. To my surprise it had +++++ stamped. It was clean as hell and he wanted 100.00. Missing the side cover and I told him to keep the bar so I could get it a little cheaper. I took it outside and did get it to start after 7 -9 pulls...immediately died. Didn't haggle after that knowing I was likely pulling the top end. Told him my price and sat it back on the shelf. Brought it home pretty cheap and sure enough scored to hell and back. Cleaned up the cylinder nice but during the final passes the plating around the exhaust started to flake.:BangHead:.

I don't know much about these other than what little I have read on the closed ports. Obviously OEM closed cylinders aren't popping up very often. Anyone care to share some experiences with the few aftermarket closed port kits?
 

Wood Doctor

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If the piston is scored badly, that means compression is probably lousy. Here's a quick check: turn the saw's crank over a few times and then hold the saw by the pull cord. See if it drops by its own weight. If it does, that means the compression is probably shot and the saw need a new top end.
 

kyle.kipple

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If the piston is scored badly, that means compression is probably lousy. Here's a quick check: turn the saw's crank over a few times and then hold the saw by the pull cord. See if it drops by its own weight. If it does, that means the compression is probably shot and the saw need a new top end.
Top end is shot. That's what I created this thread for. Was hoping to get some input from others that have the AM top ends and what they have thought of them.
 

Wolverine

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I doubt you'd notice much difference between the open & closed.
I 2nd this comment. My son and I messed around with both types on the same bottom end. Not much difference at all. He thought the larger 46mm OP had a more torquey feel. The CP was 45mm and the only piston I could find for it was the Little Red Barn one on ebay.
 

radio

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I 2nd this comment. My son and I messed around with both types on the same bottom end. Not much difference at all. He thought the larger 46mm OP had a more torquey feel. The CP was 45mm and the only piston I could find for it was the Little Red Barn one on ebay.

Just for clarity, the top end kit in the link I posted above is a 46mm CP!

Would be nice to know how that one compares.
 

Motorhead

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I think I would try the non windowed piston in the closed port cylinder.
 

David Young

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You either need to cut away the bottom of the piston, the bottom of the transfers or both. You can use an aftermarket piston from lil red barn he seems to be the only on to produce them.

David
 

Jimmy in NC

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Motorhead

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Meteor Sells a close port kit which includes the non windowed piston,Which is where I got the idea,Maybe they put the wrong piston in the picture,might be worth checking out,Saw it on ebay.
 

radio

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I built one with that top end for a small clearing and grading contractor over a year ago. It wears a 20" 3/8 setup. While it does not scream with that setup (I think it needs an 18" .325) it has held up and does pull it.

That's my $0.02.

This is good to hear. I bought that top end to upgrade one of my 51's but haven't made the time to experiment. I plan to use a .325 setup with an 18" or 20" bar and I'm hoping to see a significant increase in power.
 

David Young

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the meteor kit is like the hyway kit they are bottom fed and can get by with the solid piston an oem is not bottom fed they are like a 272 jug.
 

Jimmy in NC

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One thing I would do if I did another would be to replace both of the rubber pieces on either side of the oiler and a fresh bar pad. I think it's less than $10.00 worth of stuff and the oil pump only moves 9 mL/min when new. These items help to make sure it works at it's fullest potential. Lots of research and some old posts on Aroborist Site by Rupedoggy shared that info.

Now before everyone flips out... that 9 mL/min is constant.. even when idling a 51/55 keeps oiling as opposed to a clutch drum driven oiler. When you stop cutting to move to the next spot or saw is idling while you scratch you rear, it's oiling. Due to that, 9 mL/min is enough oil. When the rubber bits get older and the bar pad deforms, the little pump starts sucking air, oil seeps other places, etc and it is not efficient.

*Ok I just looked and the pickup is ~10.00 new OEM now.. still, in my opinion, if you are building a saw, do it up proper. A sharp chain is no good with out enough oil on it.
 
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