High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

Husqvarna 50/51/55 repair thread.

Stump Shot

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Another good thread @Onan18

I have a 55 open port mostly torn apart. The P&C is smoked and it needs several other bits and pieces and some TLC. Once my 242 is done I'll probably dig into that one. I'm thinking I might try the Huztl 55 Closed Port P&C kit on this one. I don't really NEED another saw in this size as I have a solid 359 and a ported 357, but the chase to make something out of nothing is where the fun lies.

Good tips on the oil pump worm gear removal @Stump Shot . Do all 51 and 55 have this setup?

I can see why these saws remain popular. All of the benefit of "professional class saw" construction but at a lower price point and a bit less performance compared to the XP counterpart of it's day. Not unlike how the 359 related to the 357xp and the triple-nickel relates to the 562xp now.


Yes, as far as I know. Also older saws like the 254 have this arrangement. Later 254's had a plastic gear driven by the drum. I did convert an older 254 to the newer gear, so that is possible.
 

Stump Shot

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Steve, lathe out a seal adapter system, special on models you often swap seals on.
The one I plan to use as a base is the seal mandrel to 550, #575 34 70 01

I can recommend them seal protector sleeves, I don't have the 55 sleeve (not yet), but I've used the sleeves for 242 and 346&550, they are worth every dolar.


Question for your 55 guys (for some odd reasons I've never got any 50,51,55 projects from my dealer).... There is two different crank mounting kits from Husky who both are ment for this serie.
502 50 30 09, 50>9250856, 45>9251168, 40>9101116
502 50 30 12, on them newer ones.

Anyones knows if there was different crank threads on them 40/45/50's through their life span?


Yes, I plan on making a few tools over the cold winter months. Always striving to make things easier on myself the older I get.
Not sure on the crank threads Tor.
 

Stump Shot

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Another note for this series of saw's: On the subject of the carburetor screws. To increase the odds of successfully hitting the same threads and not cross threading and subsequently stripping out the plastic. Turn the screw backwards until you feel it click and drop into alignment, stop and turn clockwise, it's all lined up.

IMG_20171123_201401379.jpg
 

PogoInTheWoods

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Here's the phantom nut location for the air filter that secures to the base with a screw. If you haven't lost (or found) one you'd just think the plastic had a threaded insert like a heli-coil, but it's actually a nut slid into a slot and only held in place by minimal friction. A little dab of Super Glue is good insurance for this, too. But if you lose one I think it's just a 5mm nut that you probably have a couple of laying around..., that you don't know where they came from.

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Onan18

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PogoInTheWoods

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Wonder how much Joe Salva at Sugar Creek Supply would charge to whip up a batch of recoil cover stickers for the 50 (if he doesn't already make em.) Seems like they're all missing no matter how nice the rest of the saw is. I had him do one for my McCulloch SP81 and it was around 16 bux but he had already started the design before I came along and asked for one. Not sure what it would be from start to finish, but the Husky sticker would be a lot less complicated than the one for the Mac.
 

huskihl

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Wonder how much Joe Salva at Sugar Creek Supply would charge to whip up a batch of recoil cover stickers for the 50 (if he doesn't already make em.) Seems like they're all missing no matter how nice the rest of the saw is. I had him do one for my McCulloch SP81 and it was around 16 bux but he had already started the design before I came along and asked for one. Not sure what it would be from start to finish, but the Husky sticker would be a lot less complicated than the one for the Mac.
I asked him about a set for a 394, mainly just the recoil and clutch cover decals and he wanted about $25, but it got cheaper if I could get some more guys in on it. I'd bet you could get just recoil decals for $10 each if you ordered a dozen
 

RIDE-RED 350r

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He didn't offer 394 decal sets till someone here advised me to contact him. Once I contacted him he asked me to take a rubbing of the decal area on the clutch cover and mail it to him as that was all he needed to start making sets. Now he makes two or three different sets for the 394 for the different types they had over the years. My bet is that if someone asked, he would probably do it.
 

huskihl

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He didn't offer 394 decal sets till someone here advised me to contact him. Once I contacted him he asked me to take a rubbing of the decal area on the clutch cover and mail it to him as that was all he needed to start making sets. Now he makes two or three different sets for the 394 for the different types they had over the years. My bet is that if someone asked, he would probably do it.
That was about the same time I contacted him. I was considering asking around to check interest. You and I were working on 394's at the same time
 

PA Dan

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Hey Joe great threads you have going! The timing is perfect! I stopped and checked out a clean 51 at a buddy's shop. When I fired it up it sounded like something was scraping on the clutch. I shut it down and tried to activate the chain brake and it sounded like something snapped. I told the guy running the store that day to tell Tom I was here and broke the saw! Lol! A couple days later Tom calls and says come get this saw and fix it for me.
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Onan18

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Dang Dan, looks like it was ran with a loose muffler. Chain brake assembly is part number 503 49 81-03 lists for $74.99 as of 11/24/2017

Joe
 

PA Dan

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Dang Dan, looks like it was ran with a loose muffler. Chain brake assembly is part number 503 49 81-03 lists for $74.99 as of 11/24/2017

Joe
Muffler was tight Joe! Got me to thinking where all that heat came from though!
 
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