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Husqvarna 36 tank vent removal? -solved- New Troubleshooting question

RCBS

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Trying to revive a Husky 36 for a buddy and fuel starvation was one of the symptoms when I got the saw. The saw has been neglected for a while and even though I think it's venting OK, I'm going to replace it. Also replacing impulse pipe and rebuilding the carb.

How the hell do you get the little gravel slug out of the tank? Can it be pushed through from inside the tank? I know that a wood screw is the method used on the white disks, but this one is the "brass stone" material covering the duckbill and I'm at a loss on how to remove it.
 

RCBS

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Got the vent out by drilling a small hole, then running a drywall screw in. Saw is now reassembled. New stuff: impulse tube, tank vent, fuel filter, carb kit, carb gasket. Everything looks OK, but I can't get it to take a tune. It will sit & idle, but any throttle input results in bogging. Have tried various settings on the H/L's on the carb and it just won't take any throttle. Best results so far are with L at 2+ turns out from bottomed. The carburetor did have a little gunk in it when I put fresh rubber in it.

Sound like the carb or air leak? I'm hoping carb as I don't have a way to pressure test. Intake boot was in good shape and still nice & pliable, used some loctite 515 on it and the impulse tube to ensure a good seal.

Any ideas?
 

heyduke

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Got the vent out by drilling a small hole, then running a drywall screw in. Saw is now reassembled. New stuff: impulse tube, tank vent, fuel filter, carb kit, carb gasket. Everything looks OK, but I can't get it to take a tune. It will sit & idle, but any throttle input results in bogging. Have tried various settings on the H/L's on the carb and it just won't take any throttle. Best results so far are with L at 2+ turns out from bottomed. The carburetor did have a little gunk in it when I put fresh rubber in it.

Sound like the carb or air leak? I'm hoping carb as I don't have a way to pressure test. Intake boot was in good shape and still nice & pliable, used some loctite 515 on it and the impulse tube to ensure a good seal.

Any ideas?

Some will disagree with me but I prefer to install a new carb rather than rebuilding an old one, especially on a pre-ethanol saw. A carb kit usually costs $15 and up. For a small saw like this one, a new carb from amazon or ebay might not be much more. And, it might come with ethanol resistant materials. If this saw has been sitting idle on a shelf in the garage with fuel in the tank (usually the case) a carb rebuild is a crapshoot.
 

Mark71gtx

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2+ turns sounds like an air leak. The last two 36's I have worked on managed to vibrate the clamshell bolts loose, creating an air leak. It is not like a Stihl, where the 4 clamshell bolts holds the engine to the housing. The Husqvarna (at least the 36) has 4 bolts holding the clamshell on, and another 4 bolts holding the engine to the housing.
 
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