Husqvarna 357/359 Repair Thread.

[backhoelover]

AS ALWAYS JOE BADASS POST!!!!!!!!

 

[XP_Slinger]

AS ALWAYS JOE BADASS POST!!!!!!!!

Right?!? Lots of oracles in this thread and Joe is one of them for sure

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Another good chunk of quality info, Joe. And Bob's input on the early 357 cranks is certainly good to know as well!

Slightly off topic as it applies to several Huskys in general, but is there a preferred sealant to use for a leak around the tank vent? I have a 357xp with a very annoying leak at the vent location. Not the vent or the vent line, but between the vent and the tank. Seems like a snug enuff fit but still leaks. My normal sealant of choice is Dirko but I don't know how it would hold up against direct contact with fuel. Have had mixed results in the past with Seal-All. Don't want to use glue in case the vent needs replaced some day.
It's nothing I couldn't live with myself, but it's a customer's saw so I'd like to tighten it up and not have it come back leaking again.

 

[huskyboy]

Another good chunk of quality info, Joe. And Bob's input on the early 357 cranks is certainly good to know as well!

Slightly off topic as it applies to several Huskys in general, but is there a preferred sealant to use for a leak around the tank vent? I have a 357xp with a very annoying leak at the vent location. Not the vent or the vent line, but between the vent and the tank. Seems like a snug enuff fit but still leaks. My normal sealant of choice is Dirko but I don't know how it would hold up against direct contact with fuel. Have had mixed results in the past with Seal-All. Don't want to use glue in case the vent needs replaced some day.
It's nothing I couldn't live with myself, but it's a customer's saw so I'd like to tighten it up and not have it come back leaking again.

Used 1184 threebond on my 385/390 vent. Hasn’t leaked yet and can be removed if need be in future.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I'm trying some Dirko for now and ordered some 1184 today as well. Never used it, but know lots of guys do..., probably because they think Dirko is actually made by Stihl, which it isn't. Very good stuff made by a company called Elring. Used in the Euro auto industry for years. High temp usage. Nice working time. Never hardens and stays rubberized. Not an adhesive. Only needs to be applied to one surface. Immediate assembly and use. Highly resistant to oil and fuel. Decent shelf life if tube is well sealed after use. 'Bout the same price as TB1184 for a 100g tube. I'm anxious to compare the two. With a tube of each I should have enough for the next 10 years. LOL

 

[Onan18]

There is a nice upgrade for this chassis, you can use a clutch cover from a 455/460 and have a much nicer and easier to use chain tensioner. @ZukiRyder400 this is the upgrade I was talking about.


Remove the old cover.


Spin the clutch off, left hand thread.


Remove the drum and wind the worm gear out.


Two screws hold the bar pad plate on.


It needs to be removed to access the old tensioner.

 

[Onan18]

Remove the old tensioner and discard it.


Reinstall the bar pad plate and wind the worm gear in.


Drop the needle bearing and clutch drum back on.


Grease the bearing.


And spin the clutch back on.

 

[Onan18]

Clutch cover from a 455.


Much more user friendly tensioner setup.


And done.

 

[Duane(Pa)]

View attachment 123622
Remove the old tensioner and discard it.

View attachment 123623
Reinstall the bar pad plate and wind the worm gear in.

View attachment 123624
Drop the needle bearing and clutch drum back on.

View attachment 123625
Grease the bearing.

View attachment 123626
And spin the clutch back on.

I have done this to both of mine.

99% sure it is same for the world famous 346xp too.

I grease the gears on the adjuster to make them run smoother. Easy

 

[Wood Doctor]

My Husky 257 loves this thread, so much so that it performs flawlessly whenever I really need it do so so, like last week when I noodle cut in half six big rounds of cottonwood that were too heavy to lift. Give that saw a sharp chain and it's in seventh heaven.

 

[Duane(Pa)]

Mmmm. Noodles...

 

[M2theB]

Joe
Great post! I picked this guy up about a month ago and have been picking at it since.
Nice project on the bench and your post is an awesome reference!

 

[Dub11]

View attachment 127552 View attachment 127553 View attachment 127554 View attachment 127555 View attachment 127556 Joe
Great post! I picked this guy up about a month ago and have been picking at it since.
Nice project on the bench and your post is an awesome reference!

Holy *s-word that thing is dirty!

 

[M2theB]

Got it running with a 357xp top last weekend, but still has some issue.
Got it a bar and chain to celebrate and provide some encouragement

 

[M2theB]

Holy *s-word that thing is dirty!

And that's all it came with.

 

[Dub11]

View attachment 127557 View attachment 127558 Got it running with a 357xp top last weekend, but still has some issue.
Got it a bar and chain to celebrate and provide some encouragement

Looks good now.

 

[M2theB]

Looks good now.

Thanks
I'm enjoying it

 

[M2theB]

I posted this question on the Husqvarna Thread yesterday but it really should have been here. Sorry if this is redundant.
I got this 359 project saw, a different one than the one in the above posts. At minimum needed the plastic clip at the inlet port modified to the metal band. While I had it apart I saw that the cylinder part number closely matches that of 361 through 372 series saw. It measured about 47mm. (When I say closely, it was missing a "93")
The saw is a 2005.
It ran with the cylinder, but not well. It stalled out when I pointed it down, but I attributed that to the loose boot and as it turned out, a broken impulse nipple on the partion wall.
Does a 503 93 72 make sense on a 359?
The cylinder does have the Husky crown on it, so I'm confident it's OEM.

 

[XP_Slinger]

I posted this question on the Husqvarna Thread yesterday but it really should have been here. Sorry if this is redundant.
I got this 359 project saw, a different one than the one in the above posts. At minimum needed the plastic clip at the inlet port modified to the metal band. While I had it apart I saw that the cylinder part number closely matches that of 361 through 372 series saw. It measured about 47mm. (When I say closely, it was missing a "93")
The saw is a 2005.
It ran with the cylinder, but not well. It stalled out when I pointed it down, but I attributed that to the loose boot and as it turned out, a broken impulse nipple on the partion wall.
Does a 503 93 72 make sense on a 359?
The cylinder does have the Husky crown on it, so I'm confident it's OEM.View attachment 131613View attachment 131614View attachment 131615View attachment 131616

Looks like an OEM 359 cylinder too me. Good catch on the intake clamp and pulse grommet.

 

[M2theB]

I couldn't get it run after I got it put back together. It started sometimes but died. That was a couple days ago.
I figured with all those air leaks gone it really should be tuned. I dialed everything back in today and backed them out 1.25. I wish I had counted how many turns exactly to seat them. I want to say 4 or 5.
It popped on the first pull and when I set it to fast idle start it came right up and settled back down when I goosed it. Starts and runs ok.
The idle does creep up a little as it warms. And it has a dead spot where it wants to die at 1/4 throttle. Maybe a little more tuning before I reach for a new carb. It's an

Looks like an OEM 359 cylinder too me. Good catch on the intake clamp and pulse grommet.

HDA 199, probably original. New vent, filters and hoses coming also.