Husqvarna 357/359 Repair Thread.

[Onan18]

Ok gang, here we go with another chassis. Not a lot of info out there on the Husky 357/359 or the Jonny 2156/2159 counterpart, hope to remedy that situation.

On the bench is an ugly old 359, rode hard and put up wet, pretty typical of a firewood saw. This one needs crank seals, piston, carb kit, fuel line, standard stuff.


As it came in.




Parts needed.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Oh boy!! Subbed!

I brought my sad old 359 back from the dead a couple years ago... You think your 359 is ugly

Mine was missing quite a bit and the piston was shot. I did a Meteor piston as you are along with a new set of crank bearings and seals and so far am quite happy with it.

Looking forward to this one

Before and after pics of mine,

 

[XP_Slinger]

Sooo glad you got the new recoil handle right away...lol
Gonna be a great thread. Ive got a soft spot for these models.

 

[Onan18]

Top cover and clutch cover off first.

Five screws hold on the front handle...

Three on the side...


And two on the bottom.


The two in the front are shorter, don't mix them up or you will be fixing a hole in the case.

 

[Onan18]

Get the brake flag out of the way.


Careful of the detent.


It just pops out.

 

[Onan18]

Recoil off.


And the air deflector.


Kill wires next.


Pop them out.


Pull them through the case and get them out of the way.

 

[Onan18]

Flywheel off.


Key is cast in.


And the clutch.

 

[Onan18]

Wind the worm gear out.


Two screws hold the bar pad plate on.


Here is the oil pump arrangement...


Get it out of the way.


And down to the seal.

 

[Onan18]

Old seal out...


New seals...


Grease on the lip.


And set it home.


More of the same on the flywheel side.

 

[Onan18]

A wire catch holds the throttle linkage to the carb.


It pops out like this.


Mash the trigger...


Hold the throttle shaft open and release the trigger.


Throttle rod will pull back and out.

 

[Onan18]

Lift the throttle rod and bellows out together.


Also, go ahead and put the oil pump back in before you dump bar oil all over your bench.

Three screws hold the muffler support on.


One on the flywheel side...


And the two dog bolts.


Lower one only needs to be loosened.

 

[Wolverine]

Takes a lot of time to take all the pics and do theses write ups. Kudos for doing it!

 

[Onan18]

Disconnect the fuel line...

There are two isolators that support the air horn.




Release them.


This rubber buffer keeps the top cover from rubbing, it just pulls out.

 

[Onan18]

Remove the cylinder bolts...


And the cylinder, muffler, and intake track will lift off as an assembly.


Here is why the piston is getting replaced, has a bit of carbon smearing.


Two screws...


Release the choke and the carb pulls away from the air horn.

 

[Onan18]

Ok, now that the top end is off lets talk about the differences between the 359 and the 357 cylinders. I have an AM 357 cylinder here for reference.




359 lower transfers.


357 lowers.


357 uppers.


359 uppers.

 

[Onan18]

Here is an easy way to spot a 359 cylinder...


It has caps for the transfer.


The 357 does not.


And a shot of the squish band for good measure.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Takes a lot of time to take all the pics and do these write ups. Kudos for doing it!

I give Onan18 an A+. Learned a lot here and I am impressed, no doubt about it.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Awesome detail! I’ve learned something, had never crossed my mind to leave the muffler attached to the cylinder and remove everything like that.

 

[Onan18]

Piston next, my favorite tool for removing the clips.


Out with the old, in with the new.


Perfect match.


New piston on.


And the cylinder back in place.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Awesome detail! I’ve learned something, had never crossed my mind to leave the muffler attached to the cylinder and remove everything like that.

I noticed that also. When taking an engine down, I usually take the muffler off first thing to get that beast out of the way. My early check for engine problems is to examine the rings and occasionally, I find foreign objects inside the muffler that never got blown out while the engine ran.