Husqvarna 350 to 346

[J. Dirt]

Thanks !! I looked over the parts stash tonight quick and I think I’m going to make two saws. First a 350 with the original 44mm p/c and hda159 and do some grinding on it. The donor saw was shelved by someone since the av springs blew out of the tank so the p/c look pretty clean, although I grabbed a caber ring for it any way.
The second is going to be the 350>346 conversion. Im not sure which carb is on the donor saw, but I know it’s not the 159. Is there one carb that’s better than the other?

 

[Dub11]

Thanks !! I looked over the parts stash tonight quick and I think I’m going to make two saws. First a 350 with the original 44mm p/c and hda159 and do some grinding on it. The donor saw was shelved by someone since the av springs blew out of the tank so the p/c look pretty clean, although I grabbed a caber ring for it any way.
The second is going to be the 350>346 conversion. Im not sure which carb is on the donor saw, but I know it’s not the 159. Is there one carb that’s better than the other?

Alot of peeps like to step up to the 357 intake track system.

 

[jmester]

I like the Zama C3-EL17/18 carb that I have on my other 350/346. I have asked others about running the 357 carb and was told on a stock or work ported saw there was not much gain, if you have race/cookie cutter saw the 357 carb really shines on the 350/346.

 

[jmester]

Well no more progress. Got in a rush getting the bearing/seal installed on the crankshaft and rolled the spring of the seal. Tried to get it back on and couldn't. Tried to get the seal off the bearing and messed up the outer seal surface. So now it is on hold till I get another bearing/seal. Haste makes waste.

 

[KYsawman]

I always pack my seals with grease where the spring rides so that the spring will not pop out. The grease quickly gets washed out after you start the engine.

 

[jmester]

Well finally getting back on this project. Got my bearing/seal. I first started with mounting the ignition module ground strap to the crankcase so would not forget about it.

 

[huskyboy]

Check your cylinder screws to make sure they don’t bottom out before they completely tighten the cylinder. It can get close. Same for transfer cap screws if you use the 350/353 cylinder. Don’t use 518 sealant on these. Dirko or 1184.

 

[jmester]

Then I packed grease in the seal behind the lips of the seal in the hollow where the spring that holds pressure on the lips of the seal to help hold the spring as I get the seal on the crankshaft.

 

[jmester]

Then got the bearing/seal on the crankshaft. The flywheel side will slide right on. The pto side is a little more tricky. I used a pick with a broken tip to help walk the lips of the seal over the shoulder of the crank.

 

[jmester]

Then I applied dirko to the crankcase and installed the crankshaft. I also applied dirko to the riser as well. I used a q tip to apply it then use daily my finger to smooth.

 

[jmester]

Then installed 4 riser to case screws and torqued the to 15nm. The SM says 14-16nm. Which is 10.32 ft bs-11.80 ftlbs. 15nm is 11.06 ftlbs. More to come tomorrow.

 

[jmester]

Check your cylinder screws to make sure they don’t bottom out before they completely tighten the cylinder. It can get close. Same for transfer cap screws if you use the 350/353 cylinder. Don’t use 518 sealant on these. Dirko or 1184.

Thanks for the reminder. I went over that on the first page. I am not a fan of 518 I know it has it uses just not in this application.

 

[jmester]

I also forgot to mention that the riser is directional. The stampeded made in Sweden goes towards the exhaust.

 

[usmcbuckwild]

Looking good.

 

[jmester]

All I got done today was washing parts. But at least it is done.

 

[jmester]

Please dont give me hell for running a silver 346 sprocket cover. Traded jon1212 for the orange one that came with the saw. Plus I don't really care as long as it is whole.

 

[old guy]

Aw!, I have 2 of em now, I don't even see em anymore.
What really bugs me is the chain adjuster in the slot on the side of the 350 up to 359s, it would cost a small fortune to change em all over to the 455-460 clutch cover which puts the screw rite out in the open.

 

[huskihl]

What really bugs me is the chain adjuster in the slot on the side of the 350 up to 359s, it would cost a small fortune to change em all over to the 455-460 clutch cover which puts the screw rite out in the open.

Not such a big deal until you swap bars or chains. What an engineering marvel that adjuster is

 

[Onan18]

Aw!, I have 2 of em now, I don't even see em anymore.
What really bugs me is the chain adjuster in the slot on the side of the 350 up to 359s, it would cost a small fortune to change em all over to the 455-460 clutch cover which puts the screw rite out in the open.

Not such a big deal until you swap bars or chains. What an engineering marvel that adjuster is

~$65.00 for a 455/460 clutch cover, worth it.

 

[old guy]

~$65.00 for a 455/460 clutch cover, worth it.

But I have nine of em! $$$