Well i pulled the cylinder to look at the intake manifold. It all looked good. No cracks, pulse ports were clear. Cylinder looked good. Double checked the fuel line and filter. I'm still not getting pulse and I can't get it figured out why.
Any other suggestions?
There are no transfer covers on the jug. It does have. 44 in ink stamped on the top of it.I once picked up a seized 350 that someone had put an after market cheap 346 jug on, however, the 350 & 346 take there impulse slightly different and they did not grind the port in the case or use the proper base gasket with the port in it.
I don't know how the saw ran long enough to seize.
In your pic of the saw I don't see any transfer cover screws on the cyl. by the flywheel so it is either a 44 m/m cyl. or maybe somebody changed it.
I did not see any ports on the gasket, except for a little square part that stuck out from the main gasket. But I didn't notice if there was a port in the cases. Don't remember seeing one anyway. Might putt the jug off again and have a look.Did you get a look at the gasket on the jug. If it was rebuilt at some point the gasket could be covering the impulse transfer.
I have tried all that. Still no joy...The 350 doesn't have a port in the gasket, it takes impulse from inside the cyl. skirt, maybe you should pull the cyl. and check the passage in it.
Or pull the carb off & find a way to blow thru that impulse line into the cyl or try to make it blow bubbles with soap water when pulling the starter rope.
Yes I did and no fuel present at the fuel line at the carb.Vac/pressure test to check for lower end blowout ala @huskihl thought.
I’ve found lower half pedestal fasteners loose and cause vac check fail.
Why do think there’s no impulse? Did you pull the line off the carb side of the impulse line and crank it?
Didn't really notice. Can I get to the bottom pan to check it by just taking off the clutch and see it there? Never have one of these that far down.A big air leak in the bottom end maybe. Seals or the bottom pan
You can check if the 4 bolts are tight on the bottom of the pan. Have to remove the gas tank/handle to access them I believe. But if they’re loose, I doubt tightening would fix the leak. It would have to be disassembled and new seals/bearings installed. The seals are behind the clutch/oil pump and the other is behind the flywheel for identifying the source of the leak. You’d need to pressure/vacuum test to find the leakDidn't really notice. Can I get to the bottom pan to check it by just taking off the clutch and see it there? Never have one of these that far down.
Got it, thanks.You can check if the 4 bolts are tight on the bottom of the pan. Have to remove the gas tank/handle to access them I believe. But if they’re loose, I doubt tightening would fix the leak. It would have to be disassembled and new seals/bearings installed. The seals are behind the clutch/oil pump and the other is behind the flywheel for identifying the source of the leak. You’d need to pressure/vacuum test to find the leak
I pressure/vac tested before tearing it all down. It passed both tests. Pulled thecylinder again to double check the intake boot. Took it all apart and didn't find any cracks or perferations. Going to order the upgraded boot and metal clamp, though I don't see it as being the problem. I have to order a base gasket anyway as I broke it taking it off this time and don't want to put it back on with case sealer just in case I have to pull it again in the near future.You can check if the 4 bolts are tight on the bottom of the pan. Have to remove the gas tank/handle to access them I believe. But if they’re loose, I doubt tightening would fix the leak. It would have to be disassembled and new seals/bearings installed. The seals are behind the clutch/oil pump and the other is behind the flywheel for identifying the source of the leak. You’d need to pressure/vacuum test to find the leak