Husqvarna 350/346 Repair Thread.

[psuiewalsh]

Is the carb check valve leaking?

 

[M2theB]

Is the carb check valve leaking?

How would I check that? I've never torn into a carb.

 

[Onan18]

There is a nice upgrade for this chassis, you can use a clutch cover from a 455/460 and have a much nicer and easier to use chain tensioner. Shown is a 359 but the procedure is almost exactly the same for the smaller saws.

Remove the old cover.

Spin the clutch off, left hand thread.

Remove the drum and wind the worm gear out.

Here is the only difference in procedure. The 357/359 has two screws that hold the bar pad plate on, the smaller saws only have the one close to the bar studs.

It needs to be removed to access the old tensioner

 

[Onan18]

Remove the old tensioner and discard it.

Reinstall the bar pad plate and wind the worm gear in.

Drop the needle bearing and clutch drum back on.

Grease the bearing.

And spin the clutch back on.

 

[Onan18]

Clutch cover from a 455.

Much more user friendly tensioner setup.

And done.

 

[Tor R]

There is a nice upgrade for this chassis, you can use a clutch cover from a 455/460 and have a much nicer and easier to use chain tensioner. Shown is a 359 but the procedure is almost exactly the same for the smaller saws.

Remove the old cover.

Spin the clutch off, left hand thread.

Remove the drum and wind the worm gear out.

Here is the only difference in procedure. The 357/359 has two screws that hold the bar pad plate on, the smaller saws only have the one close to the bar studs.

It needs to be removed to access the old tensioner

Remove the old tensioner and discard it.

Reinstall the bar pad plate and wind the worm gear in.

Drop the needle bearing and clutch drum back on.

Grease the bearing.

And spin the clutch back on.

Clutch cover from a 455.

Much more user friendly tensioner setup.

And done.

Awesome post and description, thanks Joe!

 

[Tor R]

XPG build

First we need to start with the rear element:


Drill out those two holes:


Second, we need to cut out this square area also:


Time to mount the rear heat element:


Let both wires goes down through the trottle area, there is enough space to get the wires up after the heat element is in place.

 

[Tor R]

Fuel tank with rear heat element is done (the red wire to the front handle bar is attached in an eye in the fuel tank):


Generator:


Saw start to get together, generator wire + rear heat element goes through the same eye:


Cable protector mounted:


Grounding for the XPG system:

 

[Tor R]

Front handle bar connections:


Switch area:


And there we are, left is to be careful when we turn it around a bit and mount it on the front handle bar.

 

[Onan18]

Bringing this one back, a few things need to be done if putting a 346 top end on a 350.


First, you need one of these.

 

[Onan18]

The 346 cylinder draws pulse signal from a different place than the 350 cylinders. In order for it to work the bearing cup has to be modified.


346 cylinder, notice the pulse passage in the center on the top.


Stock bearing holder, if you just bolt the cylinder down your carb will get no signal.


Modified bearing holder, all that is really necessary is to grind in the notch in the center. But while you have the burrs out anyways...

 

[Onan18]

On the 346 cylinder the transfer bulges are wider than on the 350 cylinders.


On the PTO side you have to grind them down a bit or they will interfere with the case.

Other than this it is pretty much plug and play.

 

[Fishnuts2]

I think your threads are extremely helpful! And, a whole lot faster way to gain knowledge on a particular saw. You get to the point that you're trying to make with very few words, and provide awesome pictures to go with it so it's easy to go back and study if needed. I couldn't ask for more.
Thanks so much!

 

[J. Dirt]

The 346 cylinder draws pulse signal from a different place than the 350 cylinders. In order for it to work the bearing cup has to be modified.

View attachment 147335
346 cylinder, notice the pulse passage in the center on the top.

View attachment 147333
Stock bearing holder, if you just bolt the cylinder down your carb will get no signal.

View attachment 147334
Modified bearing holder, all that is really necessary is to grind in the notch in the center. But while you have the burrs out anyways...

I thought that riser piece wasn’t needed on a 350 to 346 conversion?

 

[old guy]

It's allready in there.

 

[Onan18]

I thought that riser piece wasn’t needed on a 350 to 346 conversion?

Needed on a 350, not on a 351 or 353 as they are the same cases as a 346.

 

[J. Dirt]

Got it! Did some re reading earlier and looked at the pics closer, now I got it!

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Bumping this thread for some opinions on bearing and seal replacement options for these saws. The OEM pricing is simply unacceptable by anyone's standards (except a Husky dealer, of course) and the SKF's I see on ebay are even worse! Anyone have any good, bad, or upside down experience going the aftermarket route? I could go with Nachi 6202 C3's at around 5 or 6 bux each, but what about the aftermarket seals? Are they all basically from the same Asian source? I did read a review indicating fitment issues...

And I just saw Matt's vid about installing the bearings into the seal/retainer with a hammer and a couple of sockets. Seems like a nut and bolt (or c-clamp) and a pair of washers to draw the bearing into the retainer would be easier and less apt to deform it as could possibly be the case by a glancing blow from a hammer cocking the bearing on the way in..., or worse. Any preferred methods by those of you who've had success buying the bearings and seals separately?

Tia for any input or enlightenment.

 

[PA Dan]

I get Nachi and SKF on ebay for $4-$6 each. OEM seals are $8-$10 at my dealer. That's the route im comfortable going.

 

[Onan18]

I get Nachi and SKF on ebay for $4-$6 each. OEM seals are $8-$10 at my dealer. That's the route im comfortable going.

The seal is not available without a bearing from Husqvarna on the 350 Dan.