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Husqvarna 2100 thread

EvilRoySlade

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Pm your address and I’ll get it cleaned up and boxed.

Don’t happen to have a damaged 3120 cylinder you’d want to trade do you? Lol
 
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jacob j.

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Pm your address and I’ll get it cleaned up and boxed.

Don’t happen to have a damaged 3120 cylinder you’d want to trade do you? Lol

I think I does, actually. I have a couple candidates.

Oh great... a third flywheel option.

I prefer the FEMSA set-up myself - the ignitions are very stout and can take more heat than the SEM set-up.
 

EvilRoySlade

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Someone mentioned once they have a better ignition curve for race saws too. I don’t see coils or flywheels hardly ever so I’ve not bothered with them.
 

srcarr52

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I think I does, actually. I have a couple candidates.



I prefer the FEMSA set-up myself - the ignitions are very stout and can take more heat than the SEM set-up.

I have one running with the Bosch setup from a 285, it seems to run out a little further than others I've built. I don't know if it's the ignition or the porting differences.

I actually just sold a ported 2100, down to 2 runners now.
 

raumati01

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I just bought a 298 that needs a new piston , what do you guys recommend seeing as Meteor don't seem to make one?
 

jacob j.

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There aren't many options - I bought a VEC from Northwood Saw a couple years ago and it was ok - better than a Golf,
but only marginally so. I used Caber rings and new OEM clips and wrist pin bearing. I think I used a pin from a Stihl
084.
 

huskyboy

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Have those too, just didn’t get them out. Honestly the hardest thing to find was a new clutch. That’s been a few years of searching.
Just use a 395 clutch. It’s more robust and a upgrade.
 

gurwald

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I was tearing into my 2100 today, split the case and found this. Looks like it got a little hot sometime? Or is this simply from the heat treatment process? First saw I ever split the case on.

What do you think? o_O
 

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Wagnerwerks

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I've seen many that way, but I'm not a 2 series guy to know if they're often blue. The roller bearing being blue is a tell tale sign of overheating. Slide that rod to the side and have a look.
 

gurwald

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I took a look at the bearing and it looks ok no coloration, couldnt really measure any play, no more than 0,05 mm.
I hope its nothing and I will just rejust the crank I got. Have some new and used parts incoming.

Can I order a new wrist pin bearing from the dealer? Is it the same as for a 395 or 3120? I got a meteor piston kit and caber rings but didnt get a new bearing in the kit.
 

gurwald

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Im fairly new to this but I measured port times on the 2100 with squish set at .022~ and I got the following numbers if they make any sense,
exhaust opens at 108 (145 duration), intake at 72 (144 duration) and 19 degrees blowdown.

I cant reach the transferes with my tools so should I raise the exhaust and thereby increase bd duration or what would you suggest. :confused:
Or am I better of with a base gasket, would increase ex and decrease intake duration right? But less compression...
 

treharne Drury

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I just finished building this little 285-2100 hybrid saw. its some very clean 285 cases with a 2100 top end on it. the 2100 case that it originally had has a crack directly under the crankshaft that opens up when the saw warms up and goes lean, the saw was impossible to tune when it warmed up so I went searching for the cause. after a very exhaustive search, I finally removed the tank and found the crack. I think I will try and repair the case with JB weld or something like it.

The saw now runs really well, I did a mild port and base gasket removal, I also blocked the governor and opened up the muffler and removed the baffling.

Pretty fun saw and I sure wish someone would begin making parts for them again....like ignitions and oilers
 

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