Husqvarna 137 e-series chainsaw. Looking for workshop manual.

[Mr. Bendt Hvid Kristensen]

I have purchased a Mityvac 8500 vacuum / pressure pump, and is studying a Husqvarna 137 e-series hobby saw for leaks, the saw will not start and I found out that the rubber ring between the carburetor adapter and the cylinder was cracked in the longitudinal direction. I replaced the rubber ring with a new original spare part.
Then the saw could start but run irregularly, it runs at an irregular idle speed and after sowing a little, it stops.
I have replaced the fuel hose. I have pressure-tested the needle valve in the carburetor, and it holds pressure.
I wanted to test the engine housing, to check if the oil seal rings were leaky. Together with the above-mentioned Mityvac, 3 wedge-shaped rubber plates followed to seal between the muffler and the carburettor. I can put them between the muffler and the carburetor, but since the carburetor is mounted on an adapter plate, the pressure is released through the above-mentioned rubber tubes and impulse tube, and I can not build pressure at all.
I pump the air into the engine housing via a spark plug adapter, and the piston is in the bottom position.


Someone who has experience with this saw, what is the reason it runs irregularly? ........ the saw has only been used for a few hours and has always been running Aspen 2T, but the saw has stood still, Few years.

I'm from Denmark, so have indulgence with my bad English.

 

[huskihl]

I have purchased a Mityvac 8500 vacuum / pressure pump, and is studying a Husqvarna 137 e-series hobby saw for leaks, the saw will not start and I found out that the rubber ring between the carburetor adapter and the cylinder was cracked in the longitudinal direction. I replaced the rubber ring with a new original spare part.
Then the saw could start but run irregularly, it runs at an irregular idle speed and after sowing a little, it stops.
I have replaced the fuel hose. I have pressure-tested the needle valve in the carburetor, and it holds pressure.
I wanted to test the engine housing, to check if the oil seal rings were leaky. Together with the above-mentioned Mityvac, 3 wedge-shaped rubber plates followed to seal between the muffler and the carburettor. I can put them between the muffler and the carburetor, but since the carburetor is mounted on an adapter plate, the pressure is released through the above-mentioned rubber tubes and impulse tube, and I can not build pressure at all.
I pump the air into the engine housing via a spark plug adapter, and the piston is in the bottom position.


Someone who has experience with this saw, what is the reason it runs irregularly? ........ the saw has only been used for a few hours and has always been running Aspen 2T, but the saw has stood still, Few years.

I'm from Denmark, so have indulgence with my bad English.

On the opposite side of the carb from the needle, there is a reed diaphragm that pumps fuel. It may be stiff. There is a screen in there too that may be plugged.

Also, take note of the diaphragm / gasket positions. On the side with the needle, the gasket goes on the carb. On the fuel pump side, the gasket goes closest to the cover.

Make sure the needle isn't sticking also

 

[AVB]

Also check plastic carburetor adapter impulse tube. I had that was partially melted that gave me fits until I found it.

 

[Sty57]

IPl's

 

[Mr. Bendt Hvid Kristensen]

Thank you very much for the contributions, just pt. I do not have time to test the tips that you have contributed as I am busy harvesting hardwood for firewood sale. It's the last call before the buck hunt starts, it does it on May 16th
I buy hardwood self-logging, at a manor near my home.
As soon as I have time, I will look at the saw, right now it has a sense of cornea, it's my impression that basically it's a bad saw, badly constructed if I had to buy a cheap saw, I had chosen an Echo saw, Echo's Better for the price.
I'm tired of throwing money in it, without a guarantee that it will work ok.