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Husky handheld blower 125b won't stay runnig.

Clemsonfor

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Ok guys I don't post that much here. This place is so busy I can't keep up with your pace. Ha.

I am pretty good with two stroke and saws, but this blower has me scratching my head.

It started showing classic carb problems. Like having to run on half choke to get WOT. Then it got to where it wouldn't do much that fire off and die. No big deal. Ordered it's carb kit from china. Put it in and it started right up and runs. But even once warn ot would run then fall on its face. Yoy can push choke back to half or full and it will got wot on half then you can move it back off choke and it runs 2 or 3 seconds perfect then will bog out like it's starving for fuel. I thought it was still carb, I have had carbs that just wouldn't work even rebuilt. So I buy a China carb off ebay for it. I installed it and it acts the exact same way!? I swapped the kit out of the OE one to the replacement , no change.

I have even pulled of the fuel filter thinking it was plugged. It runs the exact same. I have swapped all the fuel lines so it shouldn't be suckling air out of them. I don't think air leak cause it's so repeatable and not random. Rev it with choke switch it off and it like runs out of fuel, choke again and you can get it back up to speed and then it will bog out again.

I really am scratching my head here.

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countryhog

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Had a blower with same symtoms recetly. Replaced fuel and vent lines. Voila! Thinling the old lines were so sft they were collapsing
 

Clemsonfor

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Had a blower with same symtoms recetly. Replaced fuel and vent lines. Voila! Thinling the old lines were so sft they were collapsing
All this fuel line is new? I meant to write that in the original post, maybe I forgot that detail?

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Clemsonfor

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I would try a new carb from Amazon, about 20.00 I know @Onan18 fixes a good many of these
I tried a new carb off ebay. Yes it was a Chinese copy Zama. But here is my thinking, what are the chances that the brand new one acts exactly like the rebuilt one that I rebuilt if it was bad? The way it acts now if different from before I rebuilt the carb the first time , it wouldn't hardly run no matter what before I rebuilt the carb. Now the rebuilt carb and the brand new ebay copy carb act the very same. There is a chance the new China carb could be bad, but if it were do you think it would act the exact same as the one I rebuilt?

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CR888

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Needing to use choke to get it up to WOT makes me think a press/vac test may be a good idea. Even spray some aerosol when its running in crank seal area both sides and listen.
 

Clemsonfor

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Chk the the muffler's spark arrester screen.
This thing has a cat muffler. Its always glowed red in there after running. But it looks clear.

I thought of the leak. I didnt have a pressure tester, but can use spray.


As to the choke thing, if you leave it choke too long it will bog out too, its not like you can run it forever choked at wot. Its like a fine line between choke and no choke to keep it even running. You have to pretty much alternate between them.

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Onan18

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Replace the coil.
 

Clemsonfor

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Replace the coil.
I just sprayed carb cleaner all around the carb where it mounts to the engine side. It flooded it out, so there is a leak somewhere there, enough to cause it to not pull fuel well, I don't know. Also if I sprayed on the right side by the fan, if I sprayed a lot it would eventually bog down as wrll, but I am not sure of it just wasn't slinging it up toward the carb and doing the same thing?

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Clemsonfor

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Replace the coil.
I had a suspicion of a coil but thought that would be weird it would go the same time the original carb went bad. ....or it made me think carb was bad and it wasnt! I know coil issues sometimes show up as all wonky running issues.

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CR888

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I don't think its your carb, my 'guess' is its a leak somewhere. If you have a compressor you could turn it down really low like 10-15psi and put air down plug hole block intake/exhaust & spray soapy water on seals. But I'd first check carb/intake manifold screws to make sure there not loose & causing the problem. Not familiar with the 125 but it would be a little clamshell.
 

Clemsonfor

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I don't think its your carb, my 'guess' is its a leak somewhere. If you have a compressor you could turn it down really low like 10-15psi and put air down plug hole block intake/exhaust & spray soapy water on seals. But I'd first check carb/intake manifold screws to make sure there not loose & causing the problem. Not familiar with the 125 but it would be a little clamshell.
I got a cheap HF like 20 gallon compressor. Not sure the regulator goes that low? Haha

And i agree at this point i dont thinkbits the carb either.

The intake nuts are tight, but i will tighten the chit out of them, but i have had it off half a dozenbor more times and i dont thinkbi have left it too loose each time for it to act the entire same way. And yea im sure its a clam shell.

This blower is like $130 on sale. I was given it free and due to the initial price i dont want to go too deep into this thing. But it was my mother in laws. Once the fuel line or carb went bad from i think ethonol she gave it to me. I have used it a season and a half. I doubt this thing has 2 gallons of gas through it. She used it for like her tiny under porch area and small walks in the city. She didnt use it for a year or two i bet. And it will run a good while in a tank. She could probably get 3 or 4 uses off a tank of gas.

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Husky268

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I would check the intake manifold and you might have to put a new boot on it ,but to get to it to tighten up you have to take it completly apart. i work on a lot of these and thats what i find 90 percent of the time.
 

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Check the coil.
It will give the impression of a cab issue, low peak RPM, sometimes it runs good then not.
Sometimes you can tune the carb to get good rpm but will not idle or idle tune is good but no WOT.

Coil can make engine appear to run rich due to intermittant/ low spark.

Clean magnets and coil poles. Sitting long periods they will rust.

Electricity is the debil!
It can regulate your heart rate and melt metal welding.
You can't see it or touch it safely you just have to believe it works for you.

Pull the muffler and look for crud.
 

ericm

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I have a 125b. It came with the carb set super lean. It would not run properly straight out of the box. Worst carb set up on a piece of OPE ever. I bought it on line instead of from my local dealer who would have set it up right.

Mine has splined "tamper proof" carb screws. Buy an $8 set of special carb screwdrivers on ebay and tune it properly.

Also when mine has old gas in it, it acts exactly like you describe. It's probably still a little lean even after tuning.
 

Clemsonfor

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I have a 125b. It came with the carb set super lean. It would not run properly straight out of the box. Worst carb set up on a piece of OPE ever. I bought it on line instead of from my local dealer who would have set it up right.

Mine has splined "tamper proof" carb screws. Buy an $8 set of special carb screwdrivers on ebay and tune it properly.

Also when mine has old gas in it, it acts exactly like you describe. It's probably still a little lean even after tuning.
I have a drawer full of those tools and know how to tune a carb, so I am ruling that one out, but thanks for the suggestion. It for sure will help someone that finds this thread in the future who has not tuned theirs or know how.

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AVB

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I just sprayed carb cleaner all around the carb where it mounts to the engine side. It flooded it out, so there is a leak somewhere there, enough to cause it to not pull fuel well, I don't know. Also if I sprayed on the right side by the fan, if I sprayed a lot it would eventually bog down as wrll, but I am not sure of it just wasn't slinging it up toward the carb and doing the same thing?
That does sound you have an air leak. If you have a pressure.vac tester and the block offs do both tests. On the pressure test you can use soapy water to the pressure leakage. On the vacuum test I would not uses the soapy water use fuel mix and look area along seals that dries faster than other areas as the mix is suck in.

These leaks are harder to find without the tester. If you do 2 cycle repair a lot as I do it is well worth the investment in the tool. I regularly use the pressure/vac tester in my repairs from carbs to crankcases, fuel tanks, and oil tanks/systems. Yes there are time the tool sits in the tools for several months but then are times several times a day; just depends on what is coming into the shop at the time.

Just some thoughts.
 

Husky268

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your leak is at the intake boot where it goes into the engine.tear it completly down and you will see what i mean.
 
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