High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

How to square file

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dilligaf
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Some more pictures. Notice the round corners.

Low
View attachment 139971

Back to center.
View attachment 139972

View attachment 139973

Round and not sharp
View attachment 139974

Round and not sharp
View attachment 139975

I need to put some felt or rubber on the bottom of my base as it slides around now that I sanded and lacquered it.

Advice appreciated.

Ron
My technique is to get the cutter you want to take a picture of up by itself so the camera doesn’t focus on another part of the chain. Then zoom in on it a bit. It usually ends up pointing out my flaws. Like DW mentioned, something right behind the cutter helps focus.
0CB88571-BC82-4864-B7F0-F4D89AC20E9E.jpeg
 

WOODS

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My advise: forget the corner to corner stuff. I only know that people way smarter than me say it's a nearly unobtainable and useless quest. Something white behind the tooth will help with your pix. DW

Thanks. From the pictures, it looks like Oregon’s corners are far less than a 45 whereas the Stihl looks to be real close to a 45. I have found no way to go corner to corner on a Stihl chain with a three corner file short of filing a big notch in the tie strap.

Ron
 

Duane(Pa)

It's the chain...
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Thanks. From the pictures, it looks like Oregon’s corners are far less than a 45 whereas the Stihl looks to be real close to a 45. I have found no way to go corner to corner on a Stihl chain with a three corner file short of filing a big notch in the tie strap.

Ron
Yea, useless may be too strong of a word. Madsen's articles call it (corner 2 corner) a myth or something like that I think
 

Semotony

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Thanks. From the pictures, it looks like Oregon’s corners are far less than a 45 whereas the Stihl looks to be real close to a 45. I have found no way to go corner to corner on a Stihl chain with a three corner file short of filing a big notch in the tie strap.

Ron
I paid attention to Madsens statement about the greater importance of the outside corner (witch is easier for me) rather than both inner and outer being the line up. Makes it possible to touch up in the field and proceed.
Still learning Simmington but there too, I can't see the inside corner to be able to line up. Keeping the file angle consistent and lined with the outside corner throws chips for me while milling 30" and wider.
I'm close enough to crazy without trying to hit the inside corner that is invisible to me while missing the tie straps. The chip is already cut when it gets to the inner corner
 

concretegrazer

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Many things I can't seem to do in addition to sharpening a chain - can't get a clear picture with the cell phone. Anyway, unless it is just me I think this is going to be a tooth by tooth adjustment on the height. Below are some shots of different cutters taking in sequence. As you can see the corner goes up and down. I also noticed some round corners - is the file wearing out? I used it a lot playing with the first chain - as in taking an 1/8" or more off many teeth. One thing is clear in the pictures: to go corner to corner on a Stihl chain you need close to 45 down angle. These were all filed at 30. Ron

View attachment 139964
View attachment 139965 View attachment 139968 View attachment 139969

As skean said you have a beak from running the file to low. As long as the cutters are the same length your process with the jig should be repeatable from one to the other. File a few strokes at x height then adjust to y ect...ect... (I always forget if it's up or down). Then move it back & repeat.
 

WOODS

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As skean said you have a beak from running the file to low. As long as the cutters are the same length your process with the jig should be repeatable from one to the other. File a few strokes at x height then adjust to y ect...ect... (I always forget if it's up or down). Then move it back & repeat.

That is what should happen but I noticed that the more teeth I filed the more likely the tooth would ride up on the jig thus lowering the filing point. Don't know if this is due to operator error, worn file or something else. Soon or later I will get it figured out. Repeat-ability is why I decided to use a jig. Unfortunately, the jig requires me to remove the center clamp bolt from the vice - with the center clamp the tooth wouldn't be going anywhere.

It would be nice to have a pair of surgeon's eyepieces with the built in light. Then maybe I could see what I am doing.

Ron
 

huskihl

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That is what should happen but I noticed that the more teeth I filed the more likely the tooth would ride up on the jig thus lowering the filing point. Don't know if this is due to operator error, worn file or something else. Soon or later I will get it figured out. Repeat-ability is why I decided to use a jig. Unfortunately, the jig requires me to remove the center clamp bolt from the vice - with the center clamp the tooth wouldn't be going anywhere.

It would be nice to have a pair of surgeon's eyepieces with the built in light. Then maybe I could see what I am doing.

Ron
I always had to hold back on the chain or hold the tooth down. I was clamping on the rivets though. Not sure if I had it right or not
 

WOODS

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I am using one of Homelite 410's vices. It grips the drive links. Ron
 

Hedgerow

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I always had to hold back on the chain or hold the tooth down. I was clamping on the rivets though. Not sure if I had it right or not
Clench your right ass cheek and put 65% of your weight on the right leg..
That should take care of it..
 

concretegrazer

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That is what should happen but I noticed that the more teeth I filed the more likely the tooth would ride up on the jig thus lowering the filing point. Don't know if this is due to operator error, worn file or something else. Soon or later I will get it figured out. Repeat-ability is why I decided to use a jig. Unfortunately, the jig requires me to remove the center clamp bolt from the vice - with the center clamp the tooth wouldn't be going anywhere.

It would be nice to have a pair of surgeon's eyepieces with the built in light. Then maybe I could see what I am doing.

Ron

Use the tang of a round file to hold down the cutter just behind the depth gauge.
 
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