How to DIY a tool, putting case halves together WITHOUT A PRESS

[Mattyo]

 

[sean silverwood]

that is pretty cool indeed.

 

[Mattyo]

I thought so.....I know husky makes this same tool...but if it's easily and cheaply made diy...why not??? Now I just wish I worked on this sooner.

 

[Barneyrb]

Get you an all thread coupling nut and you won't have to take it off and put longer spacers in, do it one time

 

[Mattyo]

If I have the right amount /type of washers in there I can do it all at once. But it really doesn't matter whether its all at once or not. I'm not in a hurry, and 99% of the people that might make this tool aren't in a hurry either.

I can make the exact right spacer / part on the lathe, just didn't fee like it. wanted proof of concept it can be done with very simple stuff

 

[stihl_head1982]

Tor had a thread similar of some tools he made. Still wish I could make the ones like he had.

 

[Derf]

Here's Tor's thread about these same/similar tools in the Technical subforum.

Crank mounting tool - crank threads

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?ur...share_tid=4804&share_fid=1392778&share_type=t

 

[Tor R]

Tor had a thread similar of some tools he made. Still wish I could make the ones like he had.

most of those are from Husky, a few is homemade, and more will be homemade in the future

Its possible to make them if you, or if you have a friend with lathe. The most important socket is the one for the 346 kit, I did put a drawing on the crank mounting tool thread for the 346 socket, that one is a must have, its a very simple socket also

50,51,55,154,254,257,261,262,346,351,353,357,359,545,550,550,560,562, to cover those saws you eventually need just two kit.

Here's Tor's thread about these same/similar tools in the Technical subforum.

Crank mounting tool - crank threads

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=http://opeforum.com/index.php?threads/Crank-mounting-tool---crank-threads.4804/&share_tid=4804&share_fid=1392778&share_type=t

its a start, we will make the thread bigger when we get info for the big Huskies

 

[Mattyo]

Yeah, now I remember that thread. He has some very pretty tools. Mine look like crap. Different goal slightly though, I was hoping to be able to diy these tools easily and cheaply ... and amazingly it worked and they don't need to be nearly as pretty. I can do the lathe work similar to Tor, but don't really feel like it, especially when i can make these tools so easily. What I hope to be able to do is to come up with a good method for assembling these china kit saws that is as ideal as possible, but cheap and easy. Tor's tools are basically factory tools and are THE standard I believe. If I can get close for cheap... then my goal will be accomplished.

I'm awaiting my PTO taps for the 372 and 394.

 

[Derf]

What I hope to be able to do is to come up with a good method for assembling these china kit saws that is as ideal as possible, but cheap and easy.

Will you be mass producing cheap tools for the Chinese kit DIY saw crowd, or mass producing Chinese saws from the ground up for the end user?

 

[Mattyo]

Right now I'm just trying to show that it's possible to make your own tools to get a more predictable result with assembly. If there is enough demand for tools then it's possible to look into a production run. That's not necessarily my goal though

 

[Mattyo]

m12 and m14 is up!

 

[Mattyo]

NO more torches...with PERHAPS in the case of disassembly

 

[Tor R]

NO more torches...with PERHAPS in the case of disassembly

I install the bearings using the freezer and our kitchen oven.

No doubt most bearings can be installed without freezing and heat, but its a huge gamble to be honest.
I've seen a few factory mistakes on 550, case a tad tight, cold preasured bearing style, I dont need to highlight where the extra magnesium got stored....
For that reason I always gone use heat when I install bearings.

 

[Mattyo]

See... that answer I can handle. Totally get that someone forced a bearing somewhere it shouldn't have been.

In my brain though, it makes even more sense to cold press the nylon cage bearings rather than heating those things up at all. I've done a 346xp and 385xp with heat... and if I have to do a proprietary bearing in the future I think i'd much rather cold press it.

I did it multiple times on that 262 chassis...and the bearing still sticks very well.

I've got a china 372xp coming up to do... i'm going to see if I can cold press new nachi's into it.

 

[Tor R]

I guess we are very different, proprietary bearings is where I feel the freezer is very important, I'm very precise when it comes to heathing up the cases, 130° C has worked 100% for me, when the bearing is in place I cool down the case a tad also.

I understand your idea Matt, but if we fail with cold pressing we will not see it because all those small bit and pieces is between the seal spot and the bearing, thats what I saw on two 550's, 60 hours and 12 minute was their running time, both with blown bearings and top end as the end result. When I saw what I saw I will never quit using the freezing and heat methode.

Edit: its just my opinion about installing bearings, its not ment to speak down your idea Matt

 

[Mattyo]

No offense taken Tor. I'm gonna run with this for a while...maybe I'll come back to agree with ya.

372xp on the bench now. Gonna try pressing China bearings out ....new ones in...and crank in....all at room temp and I will post the results

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

Cool. I use heat myself but have had to use a clutch spider to pull a crank through after I let things cool too much. It worked, but was annoying to use the spacers/washers.

 

[Mattyo]

I hope so

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

There are a ton of ways to put together bottom ends. Each way has pros/cons.

As a pro Stihl guy, I prefer heat/cold since there are indexing depths for pto bearings (oil pump). Ive heard about problems when they're not at the proper depth. .. Lakeside did reference pressing them in but from the outside. Even he departed from the manual at times.