High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

Homemade chainsaw brake band.

J & L Creations

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I've been successful at making my own chainsaw brake band, works well. Used titanium, should last much longer. I also used the same rod that the band is attached to with new rivets, so everything fit exactly the same, just had to shape the band and cut it to the correct length, cut the slots and drilled holes where needed. Reason I did this, I was told the brake band was no longer available.
image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg
 

J & L Creations

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Thanks guy's, I guess you could say necessity is the mother of invention.
 

J & L Creations

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now...if ya could just fabricate those pesky rubber chip deflectors as well that are NLA .....

:)

nice job to the OP!
Thanks Mattyo. Say are you referring to the one close to the rear of the chain drive, mounted inside the chain brake assembly cover? If so they would be easy to make and install.
 

Mattyo

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Original 262xp rubber chip deflectors are nla. If you could reproduce them with reasonable accuracy I think you could do very well selling them on the forums.
 

J & L Creations

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Original 262xp rubber chip deflectors are nla. If you could reproduce them with reasonable accuracy I think you could do very well selling them on the forums.
I'll look it up to see what it would take, thanks for the tip.
 

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Are those actual rubber or a flexible type of plastic, looks like they are injection molded.
 

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Double J, what saw did you make the brake band for?
 

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It feels like rubber to me. The outline isn't the issue.....it's the retaining bumps that would be the trick to mould
 

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Double J, what saw did you make the brake band for?
It was on a Husqvarna 61. I own one, a guy on another forum needed a new brake band (nla) and a local friend of mine needed one for the same saws. Made a deal with a guy on the other forum, he sent me his old parts so I could fabricate a new band, then attaching it with rivets to his existing old parts. Shipped them back out to him yesterday. I think I could make different ones for other saws if there was a need. I would just have to figure out a cost effective price, as titanium is a bit pricy but works the best. I could make them from other materials just would not be as good.
 

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It feels like rubber to me. The outline isn't the issue.....it's the retaining bumps that would be the trick to mould
Yes I was going to ask about that. Where or how does it mount? Do the retaining bumps go into slots utilizing one screw to hold it all in place? At any rate this would have to be a molded part, that means a mold would have to be built out of aluminum, two part mold, male and female ($$$), using a release agent once the injection process was complete to remove the finished part. Also you would either have to melt rubber or use a two part mix type rubber to inject into the mold under pressure, more $$$, more tooling, so I don't know how much of a market there would be for it and would it be worth the cost of tooling up for it when only fitting one saw. If it were to be just cutting a piece of rubber it would have been simple, but this is another ball game all together. There might be a way around all of this though, using aluminum sheet metal and rubber combined or 3D printing one, of which I built and run 3 3d printers.
http://3dprintingindustry.com/news/flexible-rubber-like-filament-for-3d-printing-5146/
 
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Mattyo

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I would be surprised if it didn't fit similar saws as well, 257, 261 ... maybe 55, 51, maybe 254xp? I don't know. @Spike60 would know better. There is a replacement, but it only extends to those bumps, not beyond.

The bumps alone are what hold it in, no screw.
 
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