High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

HOMELITE Homelite Thread

J. Loe

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J. Loe

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So, this is my pops xl-850 I believe.
Been sitting in storage for twenty years or more.

Nice and strong feeling compression.
Needs some felling dogs and gas/oil and a 28” bar...

Probably a carb rebuild.

I think it’s pretty clean as far as it goes.
I don’t ever remember this one running.
He said he got it for milling and that it had been rebuilt.

The stank sludge that came out of the tank kind of looked like sta-bil , so I suppose it’s possible he put something in it before storing.

Any ideas where to start with this fugger?
 

J. Loe

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Oh yeah, the muffler and exhaust port were really really carbonized but the plug looked clean and new.
The fuel tank doesn’t seem to have leaked and I can’t find any cracks in it..

Any reason I shouldn’t mix up some 16to1 and give her?
 

sweepleader

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Check for spark, if no spark go after that. If spark is good, shoot a little fuel mix in the carb and pull. It should pop and run a little. If not, check the compression, if it does clean the fuel system and carb.
 

J. Loe

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HAH! Runs like yer mom from all those pilled up linebackers!
I thank you gentlemen.

Thing feels great. Lots of zoom and the freedom of no chainbrake.

I got her to start and idle and piss reva bit. Was having some trouble idling at 1st but I didn’t want to really run her that long to settle down without some 16to1.

Is that stupid?


Needs a real bar and some felling dogs.
 

sweepleader

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I run all my stuff on 40:1, modern oils are so much better. I know a guy that runs 80:1 synthetic in everything, I won't go that far. Mine are all from the 60's and 70's when they called for 16 and 32 :1.
 

Milkman31

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Ok guys I walked away from a 923 today priced at $70. I was in the wife’s 4 runner and I don’t think she would have liked it in the back of her car lol! Would you go back and get it or let it go?
 

Hardhack

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67L36Driver

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340 Evilbay snag.
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Seller stated it had a vacuum leak.

Well, I guess!
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Some turd head had attempted to seal up the juncture between the manifold and cylinder with JB Weld. [emoji849]

Threads were stripped so we used Helicoils.
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Went back with 5 x 16 torx head for accessibility.

These thing have a ‘secret handshake’ to get the engine in and out of the chassis.[emoji29]
 
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Anyone have any experience with Super XL 12?

Got one that I am working on for a fellow ad Marine; brought it to me non-running and asked if I could look at it. Got it up and running but it breaks up horribly anywhere above an idle. Initially thought was a fuel delivery issue but that is now perfect. Spark is clean and very, very strong. Compression is awesome, hurts to pull it over, cylinder looks perfect, piston still has original tooling marks.

Suggestions?
 

sweepleader

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Sounds like it has a "chip" in there, in place of the points. Pull the starter housing and check for a postage sized part, stuck on in a "non-factory" way. It will have a ground wire and a wire going to the coil. There will be no wire connected to the points which are under the flywheel. Chips are commonly installed to "fix" bad points or condensers and can advance the timing to cause hard starting and/or erratic running. If so, you could try swapping the ground and coil leads on the chip to see if that helps. Or reconnect good points and condenser. If there is no chip, I would pull the carb and look at the reeds, they are held in with the same screws as the carb. No cracks, splits or bends allowed in the reeds. It might have a plugged muffler blocking exhaust or carbon build up in the cylinder too, raising compression.
 
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Sounds like it has a "chip" in there, in place of the points. Pull the starter housing and check for a postage sized part, stuck on in a "non-factory" way. It will have a ground wire and a wire going to the coil. There will be no wire connected to the points which are under the flywheel. Chips are commonly installed to "fix" bad points or condensers and can advance the timing to cause hard starting and/or erratic running. If so, you could try swapping the ground and coil leads on the chip to see if that helps. Or reconnect good points and condenser. If there is no chip, I would pull the carb and look at the reeds, they are held in with the same screws as the carb. No cracks, splits or bends allowed in the reeds. It might have a plugged muffler blocking exhaust or carbon build up in the cylinder too, raising compression.

No chip: points and condenser. Cleaned, re-cleaned and verified points are at 0.015. Makes amazing spark. Plug is good. I’m going to tackle the carb next and I will verify the reeds are good. Muffler is clear, no obstructions at all.

Thank you for the info!

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sweepleader

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Dang, I was counting on it being a chip...

Nice saw, good you got rid of the zip tie on the fuel line. The felt wick in the tank has been blamed for problems in the past. You might try an external fuel tank connected to the flexible fuel line if nothing else shows up. Have you put an air hose to the fuel line (on an empty tank of course) ? That filter could be blocked. I know you said the fuel system was good but...

The saw does not look like it has a lot of miles, very nice.
 

fossil

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It does sound like an ignition issue. If cleaning and gapping the points doesn't work make sure the plug wire isn't shorting to ground. I had a MAC doing that.
 

KYsawman

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I had the kill switch go bad on mine and caused the same issue. It would spit and sputter on the throttle but idle fine. Took me forever to figure it out, I had the flywheel off about ten times trying to get it figured out all to have it be is the switch grrrrrr!
 
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