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Homelite super 2

dartman

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I have a homelite super 2 I bought back in the eighties I am trying to repair.When i removed the carb (zama c2s-h5) I did not see a gasket between the phenalic(sp) block and carb.Should there be? It was bought new by me so I nobody has been there before me.
 

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Got the UT number for parts lookup?
 

fossil

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I have a homelite super 2 I bought back in the eighties I am trying to repair.When i removed the carb (zama c2s-h5) I did not see a gasket between the phenalic(sp) block and carb.Should there be? It was bought new by me so I nobody has been there before me.

There sure should be. Homelite used some gasket material that's very shiny. Are you sure it's not on the phenolic block? Some times they blend right in.

Either way, PN is 65016 or you can make one
 

dartman

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The saw model is ut-10454a. If I make one would something thin like craft paper work or should I use something thicker? I dont think there
is a gasket there unless it's thin and clear like saran wrap.
 

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@dartman
You should buy some gasket material. It's pretty cheap. A good one to get is Fel Pro 3046. It's 1/32" thick paper gasket infused with a rubber material. Great for almost all chainsaw applications.
There are others a well you could pick up at an auto supply company. Just make sure it's good for gas and oil.
A leather punch is handy for punching holes and an exacto knife for cutting out large holes and the shape.

An IPL is attached for part numbers and pictures of the saw assembly.
 

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dartman

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Well I found I had some of that paper in my stash and made a gasket but it still wont run right.It will start on chock then stop as soon as you take it off.It ran ok yesterday for 45 min then stopped.The carb is clean,had it off 3 times and the missing gasket was all I could see wrong.What am I missing?
 

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Well I found I had some of that paper in my stash and made a gasket but it still wont run right.It will start on chock then stop as soon as you take it off.It ran ok yesterday for 45 min then stopped.The carb is clean,had it off 3 times and the missing gasket was all I could see wrong.What am I missing?

Did you put a carb kit in it?

If the saw only runs with the choke on you are running lean. Could be that the carb diaphragms are hard or you have an air leak somewhere.
The fuel line needs to be checked as well to make sure it's not perished. Change the fuel filter too.

What are the carb low and high mixture screws set at?
 

dartman

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Hi Tim,The fuel lines were so I replaced them when I did the carb cleaning.The diaphragms looked
ok,I even looked at them through a magnifier with a light behind looking or pin holes.The filter is
clean and I made a new base gasket.The mixture screws are like 1 1/4 on the high speed and 3/4
on the low.I would put a new carb on before a kit.I am thinking it's time for a new saw.
 

AVB

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Just a few comments about the Little Red.
  • Carburetor initial setting are 1-1/2 out on each metering screws.
  • Even if the metering looks good with no pin holes if it stiffen that will cause problems. This will cause the problem of having run on choke even if the metering lever height is set correctly. I numous metering because of this and sometimes that is all is wrong. Also check the fuel pump diaphragm if the flaps are deformed it have problems pumping fuel.
  • If one on the carburetor mount gaskets was missing remove the mount and check the rear gasket that mounts it to the cylinder. I have seen them worn completely away from loose adapters.
  • One thing to be aware of is the oil pump is vacuum drive and if it develops holes the saw will smoke like a freight train or if no oil will allow the saw to lean out. Also beware that the oil pump diaphragm is not available. Too bad these are great little saws for pruning.
 

dartman

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Avb,I will check those things .The needle adjustment was where it was happy when it was running.I am going to save it for when I have more time and can gather parts.Right now I just need a saw that runs now.Thanks for all the help guys.-Alan
 
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