Homelite 2000 Restoration

[oologahan]

I got this saw from Missoula Montana last year for 150 bucks, it didn't have any spark, well a few weeks back I decided to fix it. The piston and bore were like new, but I replaced the points, condenser, and coil and bought complete new gasket set, the carb had been gone through before I got it so that was good, but the tank had a deep dent in the cover and I bought a new cover, put in new tygon lines and new fuel filter then painted and then applied new decals. It has two coats of synthetic alkyd enamel with a poly converter hardener and a synthetic reducer, The saw was clear coated with a two part gloss epoxy. Decals were courtesy of Sugar Creek Supply, the only place to buy decals.

 

[67L36Driver]

Very nice job there! [emoji106]

 

[stihl_head1982]

Some of the best restoration work I've seen. I'm mesmerized at the detail!

 

[oologahan]

Some of the best restoration work I've seen. I'm mesmerized at the detail!

Thank you, all the work on the air filter cover was done by hand 1/2" foam brush and frog tape.

 

[Lee H]

Very nice. Good looking saw.

 

[Al Smith]

Very nice job indeed .I'm not certain if the 2000 and the 2100 had the same paint or not .When I did my 2100 it was supposed to be some off the wall red flambue or something .It wasn't Allis Chalmers or JI Case Orange .I just gave up and painted it safety OSHA red and called it a day .

 

[oologahan]

Very nice job indeed .I'm not certain if the 2000 and the 2100 had the same paint or not .When I did my 2100 it was supposed to be some off the wall red flambue or something .It wasn't Allis Chalmers or JI Case Orange .I just gave up and painted it safety OSHA red and called it a day .

I mixed safety red and safety orange until I got the right color that matched inside the air box. I've mixed paint for over 20 year. no way anyone was going to match the original color any better than I could. The hard part is even inside the airbox you have to take in consideration a small amount of fade of the years, so you need to make it not really darker, but just a hair brighter when dealing with reds, but that rule is different with each color

 

[mgr1]

Nice paint job! Nice restoration! Is it possible for a link of the used paint products?

 

[Al Smith]

I haven't painted one in a long while .However for an upcoming project of two Partner P-100s I may try to totally restore the McCulloch version and soup the other one up .I do know the Mac yellow which helps get it correct .

 

[oologahan]

Nice paint job! Nice restoration! Is it possible for a link of the used paint products?

We have a local company that has produced industrial coatings here since 1950. Stuff for towers, tanks, and well equipment. I used their industrial alkyd enamel safety red/safety orange 75/25 (I think rustoleum professional series silver can is a great product too, if you can get it) and added a product called poly converter which acts as a hardener and a synthetic reducer, thinned about 35 percent, as the enamel is a heavy bodied product. the hardener allows it to set up and dry quickly without much overspray or runs. I'm using a cup gun with about 25 PSI. After it cured two days I shot it with a two part epoxy gloss clear. It was a product that comes in a spray can that you activate by pressing a button on the bottom to release part B. I used a whole can on the parts by shooting them twice while hanging by wires in the shop. The epoxy was 20 dollars, but well worth it, no mixing , no mess

 

[Al Smith]

Not to get off the saw but with paint I like rustoleum .I made all the metal trim pieces for my shop because there was no commercial stuff make for it .Garage door panals for siding .I used 22 gauge galvanized sheet metal .I used triple etch to prep the metal,then a shot of yellow chromate ,then red oxide primer followed by rustolem white .That was in 1996 and it looks as good today as it did 22 years ago . I use a Binks number 7 spray gun,oldie but a goodie .I've used the product in rattle cans on a few saws too .Good stuff .

 

[oologahan]

Not to get off the saw but with paint I like rustoleum .I made all the metal trim pieces for my shop because there was no commercial stuff make for it .Garage door panals for siding .I used 22 gauge galvanized sheet metal .I used triple etch to prep the metal,then a shot of yellow chromate ,then red oxide primer followed by rustolem white .That was in 1996 and it looks as good today as it did 22 years ago . I use a Binks number 7 spray gun,oldie but a goodie I've used the product in rattle cans on a few saws too .Good stuff .

I think anything about techniques or products used for a restoration is on topic. Thanks a bunch for adding your experience. Rustoleum makes two lines of alkyd oil based products The silver label Professional Series and the white label Stops Rust brand. If at all possible I would use the silver label Professional Series and if your local Home Depot or Lowes doesn't carry the Professional Series or color you want you can get them to order it or have it shipped to you. There also many good farm and Implement paints as well, Van Sickle seems to be another good brand sold at many farm stores. If you want it to retain its shine and the bright color you must add Poly Converter or other hardener. White or black color is less of a problem as the titanium and black pigments in white are very strong. Just remember to thin at least 25- 30% and recoat after no more than one hour depending on temperature; in warmer temps it can be as little as 15 minutes to a recoat. By recoating while tacky the next coat burns into the first coat and creates a stronger bond. If you wait overnight or longer you could have many problems such as poor adhesion, bubbling of the previous coat or fisheye.

 

[USMC615]

Very nice resto...damn good looking Homie 2000!

 

[TJ the Chainsaw Mechanic]

Very nice work man