tree monkey
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rakers at .050 you say
good way for the counter guy to get fired
good way for the counter guy to get fired
Hello! new guy here
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MustangMike
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From your description, it sounds like it may have been to me. Do you know how to check your carb?
Give it an 8 lb pressure test and see it it leaks down.
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Don't file the rakers that low all at once. Drop them slowly until she eats the way you want, in the type of wood you cut most. I have chains that will slice through pine, but are no fun at all in a hard oak log.
Larry B
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Interesting morning with the new saw. It started right up and went through about a half tank of gas tuning and letting it break in. Started a haf dozen times or so. After lunch my brother in law stopped in to see it and BAM! back to kicking back and feeling like it was hydo locked, which I knew it wasn't. JLong story short and some bad words later it was the Hyway decompression valve. Took it out and put in the one from the Farmertec kit and it starts like it is supposed to. Put the Hyway one in and you can't start it. Will be going to the dealer this week and get an OEM one. Took it to my brother in laws and he had a 24" hackberry down. Didn't time the cuts but the Holzforma(?) Bar and chain did pretty well. He said it would smoke his ms290.
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I don't trust any of the am decomps.
No issue's with other am part's.
But they just can't get the decomps right.
MustangMike
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I would hope a 660 would smoke a 290. If not, throw it in the trash!!!
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Give the 290 a proper muffler mod and go again. Lol
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Seriously though that 290 will benefit greatly from a muffler mod and a little timing advance. Trim the limiters and retune. They go from turd to a respectable firewood saw with just a little work.
Larry B
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OK guys, a little baffled here. I have 3 decomp valves Farmertec, Hyway and OEM and they will all do the same thing. If when trying to start the saw and it gets just a little too rich the saw kicks back and rips the handle out of your fingers and it usually snaps the decomp closed so hard it pops the rubber tip off of all 3 of them. You can't start the saw. If I take the decomp out and blow it out with compressed air it will work till I try to start with it rich, not flodded. If I crank it with the choke closed till it pops it is flodded and will never start. If I choke it and pull it through 2 compressions it will usually start when I take the choke off. Once it starts it runs like a scalded dog but sometimes it is a "B" to start. Any thought from wiser gentlemen than me?
thanks
thanks
TJ the Chainsaw Mechanic
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Sounds like timing to me.
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Ask the wife to start it...
Larry B
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Yes, pressure tested and checked lever height. I bought a carb off ebay thinking it had a replaceable jet but no such luck. Even said walbro on it. It checked that carb and swapped it onto the saw an same thing. I am running the mix at about 30:1 for the first 5 of 6 tanks of fuel. Only thing I can figure is oil is getting into the decomp and screwing it up. I had to drill out the OEM decomp valve to 3/32" to get enough decompression to be able to start the saw. Not sure how much PSI compression it has. It has a Hyway 56mm kit with about .025 squish, 6 degrees ignition advance and a dual port muffler. I don't think it is all that modified to be such a PITA to start if decomp valve gets wet.
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Nothing unusual for a saw that has just been worked on and still has oil above the piston rings. Get it going and keep it running and cut with it a bit to get good and warmed to rid itself of this excess oil. should return to normal after that.
