Guide rails

[flying pig]

What are you guys using for guide rails? I need to build a new set for doing boards up to 16' long. I need to use them for every pass as well. Any ideas?

 

[Marshy]

Why do you need them for every pass? Most use a ladder. What kind of mill are you using?

 

[flying pig]

Home built mill simular to a MkIII. I need it every pass to keep the mill from diving off the end of the board. My mill is about 60lbs with the powerhead mounted and it will drop about 1/2" each pass, even if I turn and come off at 90* to the board. What works best for me is to have a guide board or rail that will support the mill all the way off the end every time.

 

[Wolverine]

What works best for me is to have a guide board or rail that will support the mill all the way off the end every time.

Your mill should have a rail that rides down the center of the plank that supports it coming out of the cut. It not, I'd add something that does. Adding railing every cut will be a pain and add to the time involved.

Do you have any pics you could post of your mill?

 

[Iron.and.bark]

If you want to use a single piece rail, look into modular solar panel mounting systems. Usually made from extruded aluminum. For wood, have used a beaut one made off Oregon years ago.

 

[Tim]

I also agree with adding another piece to your mill to give more support at the end of the cut. You can see in the picture of my Granberg mill that I added a second piece so each side of the flat surface is supported at the end of the cut. I later made two from wood and added each to both my Granberg mills. You can probably make one that can be moved to different locations for different sized logs.

As far as milling long logs, I suggest using nails and laying a board on them. I've been doing it that way for over 15 years and it has worked every time. Notch four of the nail heads with a chainsaw file and hammer two on each end of the log with the notches facing the ends and level the nails on each end. Then pull a string making two parallel lines and stagger nails down the log next to the strings at the same height. Then lay a board on them for the guide and slide the board down as needed. I use 40d bright common nails (5" nails). 6" spikes also work well but they cost more and are a little harder to pull out with a crow bar because of the length. Pre drill for hard woods. I use a quarter sawn pine board about 3/4" x 10" x 8'. A thin board will flatten to the nails by the weight of the saw and mill. You might want a little thicker slab board if you have a heavier milling setup.

It's a good method for making floor joists, rafters and long beams.

 

[Iron.and.bark]

My main rails are made out of rectangular 1x2 ali tubing. Can buy this in 20 feet lengths here.

Also tim is dead right when that support brace. Always have to balance on it.

 

[flying pig]

Nice set ups guys, and thanks for the ideas. I've decided to try something a bit outside the box. I picked up some overhead door track and will be making an adjustable length guide rail set up with it using light angle iron for cross bracing. This way I can do whatever length wood I need, and I can use lag boots to help level the rails for first cuts etc under the angle iron. Plus it will fit inside my truck box instead of hanging over as that cost me a lot of money last week (rear power sliding window).

 

[flying pig]

Got them done yesterday. Fairly sturdy and very light. Plus I can build other lengths to add on or adjust the overall length.

 

[Dolmar Junkie]

View attachment 72755 View attachment 72756

Got them done yesterday. Fairly sturdy and very light. Plus I can build other lengths to add on or adjust the overall length.

Good looking work! How did you attach the angle to the track? Weld,bolts,bubble gum? Got any close up pics? Let us know how it performs, better yet get us a video, I like chainsaw movies...

 

[flying pig]

Used stainless rivets, lots of them. Ha ha. It's very straight/true and fairly stout. We were thinking with that light of material that welding may have warped it.