High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

Fun with a saw

smokey7

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Also if your saw has a plastic lower half of the crank case dobt use 518. Use sonething like 3bond derko or motoseal in a pinch. Follow instructions to the letter. As porting goes always make sure the skirt will cover the port and ring ends will stay away from the port edge.
 

I Know Something

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Up to 65% of the bore diameter if the skirts and ring locating pins allow it. But stay at least a mm or 2 inside the skirt to seal off the port

Thanks a ton. That's more then I want to do to this one. But, that might be useful knowledge some day.
 

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Also if your saw has a plastic lower half of the crank case dobt use 518. Use sonething like 3bond derko or motoseal in a pinch. Follow instructions to the letter. As porting goes always make sure the skirt will cover the port and ring ends will stay away from the port edge.

The only plastics is two tabs that have a grove in the side of the cylinder. There is no gasket. Just a ring of what appears to be a black silicone in a grove. And it wasn't an air tight seal. There was a few small gaps in it I didnt know about.
 

1990Husky262

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make sure you use a gasoline compatible sealant, you cant use regular silicone or else it will leak in short time. on clam shell engines i like to take a sheet of glass and sand paper and make sure both half's are flat cause they are usually arnt and can cause problems on getting a reliable seal. My sealant of choice is yamabond #4 but there are plenty of others out their
 

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I'm wondering. Should I removed the plastic separating the middle port and the big port? Would be nice to have some oil get to the top end. And if I do. Would I need more fuel with the added air flow? Maybe shorten up the metering lever spring a bit? If I understand its function correctly. It helps with the pressure needed in determining fuel flow.

I'm also assuming I'll have to disable to top port if I go this route.

Thoughts?
 

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What chain do you have on this? The one I worked on had the crappy vanguard.
33RS 72 is the chain from Stihl I've had on it this year. I really like it. It can handle it in stock. Does cut faster. Also "snags up" in the cut a few times.

The saw has been gone threw quite a bit. I've even massaged open all the plastic intake that I felt it needed. As well as a growing list of other modifications I think of along the way. Just need the snow to stop flying to give it a test.

P.S.
Can you open a muffler to much to the point it's not helpful?
 

legdelimber

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My first question about disabling the strato air valve is:
Will the carburetor venturi be large enough to feed the saw and not just choke it off instead.
My second question would be:
Will the resulting lack of , air flow going through the strato ports cause some funny fuel/oil puddling inside them or splash fouling or some other sort of tuning oddities?
 

Dub11

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33RS 72 is the chain from Stihl I've had on it this year. I really like it. It can handle it in stock. Does cut faster. Also "snags up" in the cut a few times.

The saw has been gone threw quite a bit. I've even massaged open all the plastic intake that I felt it needed. As well as a growing list of other modifications I think of along the way. Just need the snow to stop flying to give it a test.

P.S.
Can you open a muffler to much to the point it's not helpful?

Yes it wont idle worth a crap.
 

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My first question about disabling the strato air valve is:
Will the carburetor venturi be large enough to feed the saw and not just choke it off instead.
My second question would be:
Will the resulting lack of , air flow going through the strato ports cause some funny fuel/oil puddling inside them or splash fouling or some other sort of tuning oddities?
And to both your questions. I don't know the answer. That's why I asked. Lol. It's a thought. I dont know if the strato ports could use some lube or not. Seems like they should.
 

Stump Shot

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As near as I can understand the strato ports are a good thing and should be left alone for the most part. Nothing really to be gained by disabling them, but there would be something to loose.
 

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The thought was disabling the air port. But, removing some if the plastic at the cylinder wall to let the gas/oil mix go threw the strato ports? Or, maybe open just that part up and let it have a mix of both carb air and strato port air?

The reasoning behind it is the wondering if letting it have some oil would help in longevity?
 

Stump Shot

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The thought was disabling the air port. But, removing some if the plastic at the cylinder wall to let the gas/oil mix go threw the strato ports? Or, maybe open just that part up and let it have a mix of both carb air and strato port air?

The reasoning behind it is the wondering if letting it have some oil would help in longevity?

Your saw will be oiled just fine, the air just helps clean out the spent exhaust gasses to make the incoming charge more efficient, this is why the strato saws make excellent power but burn less fuel.
 
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