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Foot pounds or inch pounds

Gary Courtney

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Was wondering if Stihl torque specifications were foot pounds or inch pounds. Also what recommendation for a torque wrench in a quarter inch do y'all recommend. Thanks in advance.
 

Tugg

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I have not looked recently at any specs but, the metric equivalent our what they use is NM newton meters. They may reference foot or inch pounds in older specs I do not know. The head bolts, spark plug, and some muffle bolts are the only thing really torqued down with any onion. Most head or cylinder bolts are in the
80-90 inch pound range which works out to be 7-8 ftlbs. or 9-10 NM. So the best wrench for chainsaw work would be inch pounds and its metric equivalent on the other side. There are a lot of calculators to do conversions online so just about any will work. I have a a cheaper craftsman but, harbor freight makes a cheap one too. Some just use a good T handled allen or torx 27 wrench and just keep track of how far past tight they twist the handle.
 

Al Smith

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Torque wrenches,I have a few,these are the small ones .The green handle is a mechanically preset spring break over set at 4.8 KM which can be reset,I have 6 of these .The dial type is a Snap On in both inch pounds and KM up to 30 in. lb . The precision Facom R.203 DA beam is rated from 6 to 36 Nm with an accuracy of 6% .That was sent in as a calibration tool for a precision gauge used in the automotive industry but later scrapped when it wasn't needed .Being an old "dumpster diver " ----
 

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Gary Courtney

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Reason for asking was I had stripped a 5mm at oiler resevoir and retapped to 6mm and all is well but I did this with my hams for hands. and a stihl scrench w/27 torx on end.
 

Larry B

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I have a few torque wrenches but to tell the truth I haven't pulled one out in a while. I use them for cylinder heads but that is about it. As a general rule most folks over torque most bolts and nuts under 3/8". My favorite are the folks who cross thread and over tighten screws in plastic and strip them out. More and more stuff has plastic cases and there is a procedure to put the coarse thread screws back in.
 

legdelimber

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Always do a little back spin with screws.
Using a light touch and not much inward pressure.
You're looking to feel it drop into the already existing threads.
Otherwise you are just chewing out the holes.
For the love Pete guys, don't just grab them and blast 'em in with a drill!

Some fasteners have more than one thread on them. So you need to watch out for one thread being larger or taller and make sure you match it to the threads in the holes.
Might have to back twist it a couple~three times to notice the difference in how the two different sized threads feel.

Some cases may have those folded clips to cacth the screws, but it's still good practice to back spin them.
 

Larry B

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Always do a little back spin with screws.
Using a light touch and not much inward pressure.
You're looking to feel it drop into the already existing threads.
Otherwise you are just chewing out the holes.
For the love Pete guys, don't just grab them and blast 'em in with a drill!

Some fasteners have more than one thread on them. So you need to watch out for one thread being larger or taller and make sure you match it to the threads in the holes.
Might have to back twist it a couple~three times to notice the difference in how the two different sized threads feel.

Some cases may have those folded clips to cacth the screws, but it's still good practice to back spin them.

You sir are correct!
 

Al Smith

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You can get real technical in a discussion of threaded fasteners .This was actually part of my job because the installation of same in the automobile industry is done by computer controlled devices in modern manufacturing methods so here goes .A threaded fastener,screw can be looked at the same way a coil spring is .It's elastic to a certain degree .As such each thread can be compared to an individual coil as far as loading .
All torque specification ,which might sound counter productive are taken with oiled threads .You have to take the screw to yield,which is the stretch then an additional rotation in degrees for final torque .It's been proven more failures are on under torqued than over torqued fasteners .
Another rule of thump being the base metal for the female threads length .On steel it's whatever the bolt size is .On cast iron that number is two times .On aluminum it's 4 times .
All that aside it boils down to tight is tight ,too tight is broken .
 

RD35

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Many years ago my Dad was assembling track shoes on his JD450. He called the dealer and asked the service manager what the torque spec was on the grade 8 track shoe bolts. Manager told him to just keep on tightening them with a cheater bar and then stop just before they twist off!!!:confused:
 

Fish

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Here. Torques are on page 3.5...
 

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Fish

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Here is a great thing to have too....
 

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