Flying Tiger MS660

[paragonbuilder]

When I was starting out in the marine engine fitter trade we were taught to feel for bearing problems. If the bearing was small enough to stick one finger in the shaft hole and spin the bearing outer shell any defect can be felt. The experienced hands called this feeling, a hitch, which is the moment any troublesome spot would make contact with the inner or outer races. They had brand new bearings and used ones that were problematic all mixed in with good bearings, our chore was to find the bad ones, after many hours of working them over one developed a feel for a bad bearing, even just one flat spot on a ball will be detectable with time and patience, every bearing,new or used gets a 4 - 5 min test before I use it. I failed a 250 lb, 6" dia shaft size ball bearing just this week, it has a bad spot in it and will be returned.

Is this done with no oil? Obviously debris could cause a hitch, so blast it out with brake cleaner?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Basher]

Is this done with no oil? Obviously debris could cause a hitch, so blast it out with brake cleaner?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cleaned but with no oil, we always clean every bearing before testing. Washed in solvent several times and blown out with low pressure air. An oiled bearing can mask a defect.

 

[Basher]

That is some big bearings!!!

Not really but a hefty one just the same, the bearing below is a big bearing,

 

[MustangMike]

Just did a pressure test, and there was a very slow leak, just like I thought, the clutch side seal is kaput!

Just ordered a new one. Plenty of work still to be done on it while I wait.

FYI, squish with the base gasket was 045, so looks like the gasket will be out and the bottom may get sanded!

 

[Moparmyway]

 

[MustangMike]

I have been taking some, just have not had time to post them yet.

Just printed a degree wheel off the net.

Got to get back to work, this takes a lot of time the first time you do it.

I sanded the base just enough to remove the coating (so it will stick w/o a gasket) and my squish is .021, close enough. I always remove that protective coating before I install a cylinder.

My gasket was about .021.

 

[MustangMike]

You want #s, I got #s:

Exhaust 105
Upper Transfer 121
Intake 83
Squish w/o base gasket .021

What do you guys think, are these #s good for a saw that I want to have torque? Or should I try to raise the Exhaust a bit??? Can't do anything about the intake, it is what it is.

The Exhaust Roof is very flat, but I could just really bevel it.

Any thought appreciated.

 

[MustangMike]

OK, so you want pics: My mods to the covers, and the intake that need to be modded to match the boot.

 

[MustangMike]

The dimples on the piston, the flaw in the squish band, and the flat Exhaust Roof:

More later, dinner is ready!

 

[Deets066]

Seems like these numbers are all over the place

 

[Termitebuffet]

Seems like these numbers are all over the place

Could be the difference in the way we read the degree wheel..

 

[MustangMike]

The assembled case, and my printed at home degree wheel. My wheel stays still, and my pointer rotates. Instead of drilling a hole in the center, I just cut an X so it would self center. I taped the printer paper to Oaktag (from a file folder), and folded the bottom flush with the table so it would not move. I think it worked well, and the price was right!

 

[Termitebuffet]

Could be the difference in the way we read the degree wheel..

Or they could be all over the place [emoji2]

 

[T.Roller]

I'm new to it but doesn't seems bad to me. I'd raise the exhaust a few degrees, same with the transfers and intake

 

[MustangMike]

Could be the difference in the way we read the degree wheel..

My measurements from the squish band reveal that this Cross Cylinder does not have the same timing as the first.

Cyl #2 the Exhaust is lower, the Upper Trans is the same, and the intake is higher.

As best as I can guesstimate from the measured distances, I'd say the #s on cyl #1 were 98, 121, 86, and the OEM was 96, 118, 83. (These are all my estimate w/o a base gasket, the OEM had a base gasket).

 

[MustangMike]

I'm new to it but doesn't seems bad to me. I'd raise the exhaust a few degrees, same with the transfers and intake

How can I raise the intake, it opens from the bottom. Only way would be to add a gasket, and that messes up the rest of it. Also, I think the transfers are about right.

 

[MustangMike]

A couple of more pics, rotated the cover (looks better) and my informal measuring stick (the top to the squish band).

For OEM, Cross #1 (C1) and Cross #2 (C2).

 

[T.Roller]

How can I raise the intake, it opens from the bottom. Only way would be to add a gasket, and that messes up the rest of it. Also, I think the transfers are about right.

Lower I'm sorry

 

[paragonbuilder]

How can I raise the intake, it opens from the bottom. Only way would be to add a gasket, and that messes up the rest of it. Also, I think the transfers are about right.

Jb weld


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Termitebuffet]

My measurements from the squish band reveal that this Cross Cylinder does not have the same timing as the first.

Cyl #2 the Exhaust is lower, the Upper Trans is the same, and the intake is higher.

As best as I can guesstimate from the measured distances, I'd say the #s on cyl #1 were 98, 121, 86, and the OEM was 96, 118, 83. (These are all my estimate w/o a base gasket, the OEM had a base gasket).

Are both cylinder cross ?