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Flying Tiger MS660

MustangMike

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Well, on the Fuel Cap front, I found one that worked through D Dave. Note it came with a O ring instead of the flat oval washer.
 

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MustangMike

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And, I got 2 more Flying Tigers in production! Did my best to correct the "out of round" intakes the other day (I envy those who can do that real nice port work, but this will work).

I also got both cases together today, the most dreaded task (for me) of putting these darn things together. I always get the first half of the crank to slip right in (after a little heat from my HF heat gun), but the second half never seems to go, no matter how much I heat it.

My hammer and socket are my friends!

I ruined one seal on the first one, but not on the second one, which is great cause I only had one extra seal!

Tomorrow I'm busy, so this may take a while, but I will work on em when I can.

Oh, the case pins on these two are glued into the case halves, not loose + sloppy like on the first one! They must have corrected that issue.
 

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MustangMike

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The case on the first one was filthy, I really cleaned it out, and excess metal from the holes was not cleared and was everywhere, but the bearing felt great.

The next one, the case was very clean, but both main bearings felt gritty. I put a little two cycle oil on all the bearings, and they all seem fine now.
 

MustangMike

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I was running Flying Tiger and it felt like the AV was failing, not bad, but just a vibration that I noticed. So I ripped the saw down, but for the life of me I can't find anything wrong with any of the bearings.

Do you think I'm just getting a bit paranoid, or is it more likely there is something I'm missing? It has about 10 tanks through it.

So I have the cylinder pulled and the piston off, but I'm not sure what to do. Any opinions are welcome!
 

Fruecrue

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I felt much less vibration after I had the piston cut to a .040” pop-up and lightened it anyplace else I thought wouldn’t destroy it.
That does nothing to explain your situation, but it was noticeable in my saw.
 

MustangMike

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Hmmmm, perhaps change for an OEM piston pin, that would likely save the most weight!
 

MustangMike

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I have concluded that my Piston Bearing was starting to go bad, even though the bearing was not frozen.

It developed a bit of side to side play, that allowed the piston to touch the squish band on one side. That caused the vibration I felt. Taking it down now averted disaster.

I will put OEM Piston bearings, as others have recommended, in all my kits (3).

Can't seem to find a source for OEM Piston Pins, and I want to use them as they are lighter. Ironically, 460 + 461 piston pins are too long! Why do they use a shorter piston pin in a wider piston???

I'm thinking of using a step drill bit on each end of the AM Piston Pins to reduce weight. Max strength is only needed in the middle, and OEM pins are tapered.
 

Flyguy

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You might try Bailey's for the wristpin and bearing.

The part # for the OEM wristpin bearing is: 9512 003 3281.

The part # for the OEM wristpin is: 1122 034 1500.

I just got a bearing from Bailey's for my Chi-Com MS660, $10.99 ea.
. The wristpin does show up on their website. $25.99 ea. Ouch!
 
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mdavlee

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Definitive Dave should have it all in his eBay store.
 

MustangMike

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I did not contact my local dealer. They take about 3 weeks to get me fuel filters.
 

Canadian farm boy

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I don't have any OEM that are not currently installed, but the Cross 660 pin is 1.295 in my caliper.

460 + 461 are noticeably longer.
I found 1 good 066 wrist pin. Yours if you want it. Just say the word and I'll get it mailed off.
 

MustangMike

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You might try Bailey's for the wristpin and bearing.

The part # for the OEM wristpin bearing is: 9512 003 3281.

The part # for the OEM wristpin is: 1122 034 1500.

I just got a bearing from Bailey's for my Chi-Com MS660, $10.99 ea.
. The wristpin does show up on their website. $25.99 ea. Ouch!

Thanks, I just ordered some OEM bearings from them, great price, and I needed some rope anyway!
 
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