Fixing a 15 year old 066 Magnum/need advice

[BuckthornBonnie]

The “bar” holding the piston in is called a wrist pin or piston pin. There’s no guarantee that it will work in an aftermarket piston (even Meteor). It will probably fit, but there are sometimes differences depending on the batch or saw model. The Meteor supplied pin works well and may just be a bit heavier than OEM.
I usually use a new OEM wrist pin bearing for top end rebuilds.
Did you turn the saw over a lot with the cylinder removed? Sometimes just doing that will cause the harmless mark you referenced before. The connecting rod smacks that part of the case if it’s not held true by the cylinder.

 

[Jungleman]

Once I got everything pulled apart? Hell yes I was turning it over. I acted like a raccoon holding something shiny turning everything this way and that to look at it from all angles.
What you say makes sense, thanks.

 

[Spladle160]

you won't be the only one with a little chip in that area, I promise. That steel rod carries a lot of momentum and slap against that thin mag edge.

 

[Jungleman]

I'm slowly piecing this thing back together but I'm still working on it when I can.

Here's my next dumbarse question of the day. I cringe to think that the piston and cylinder have no lubrication until I fire it up for the first time. Can I pour a little tablespoon of 2 cycle oil into it from the spark plug hole? I could take the cylinder back off and wipe the inside with a clean rag soaked in 2 cycle oil but I'm lazy I guess. Or maybe its cause I dont have the proper tools. The end of a caulk tube was what I used to close the piston rings and get the cylinder over it but it sure took a while!

Also. My box of parts is getting smaller as I am putting it back together and i am missing a part that HL Supply sent me when i ordered the new piston.
I'm not sure if I somehow missed it and it fell on the floor and rolled under my work bench but I swear I never seen this tiny bearing before. The piston rod bearing I think it's called? Perhaps this is what caused the clicking sound when I would pull the cord before I took it all apart.

 

[Jungleman]

Can anyone tell me what this is. It's the only thing I have left after putting the saw back together and i have no clue where it goes.

 

[huskihl]

Decomp grommet

 

[Jungleman]

Well I'll be damned. Thank you everyone for putting up with my questions!!!!
First time this saw has run in over a decade!!!!!!
I was worried at first cause nothing was happening after 5 pulls on full choke but around the 10th pull it fired! Then it fired right up on the first pull!!!!!!
Now I'm gonna tear it back down again and put some 518 on the cylinder gasket. Waited to see if it would run before using that.
Thank you again! This is an awesome forum!

 

[Jungleman]

I sure seemed like an excitable fella near the end there....

Saw is still up and running. Was running it rich just cause it hadn’t been used in so long. Now I got it set right to normal and it runs good and clean.

One thing I have a question about that has just started in the last week. I can’t fire it up anymore(when it’s warm) without flipping the switch to semi choke or whatever you call it. Not all the way down, 1 up from the bottom.

To clarify, a couple minutes it will still start like normal. More than 10 minutes it won’t fire every time and I gotta put the switch down like I said.

Thoughts? What should I look into?

 

[huskihl]

I sure seemed like an excitable fella near the end there....

Saw is still up and running. Was running it rich just cause it hadn’t been used in so long. Now I got it set right to normal and it runs good and clean.

One thing I have a question about that has just started in the last week. I can’t fire it up anymore(when it’s warm) without flipping the switch to semi choke or whatever you call it. Not all the way down, 1 up from the bottom.

To clarify, a couple minutes it will still start like normal. More than 10 minutes it won’t fire every time and I gotta put the switch down like I said.

Thoughts? What should I look into?

The metering needle in the carb is leaking. Pressure in the gas tank over-powers the spring and bypasses fuel into the engine and floods it. Might be a dirty needle or weak spring or maybe the diaphragm is stiff and not letting the needle close completely

 

[Jungleman]

Well I’ll be....

That perfectly explains what happened last week. Before I realized it was having this issue I put it on full choke to start it back up and ended up flooding it. When I took it back to the shop and took off the muffler a little gas was in muffler and even more in the cylinder itself. Had to pour it all out. Never had that happen before.

Thanks @huskihl . I’ll pull off the carb and check the needle.