(First Post) porting help

[Moparmyway]

I had a few minutes this morning so I changed out the carb to a Zama clone carb, they look alot smaller than the HD 12. At one turn out on the high side it was turning 13,800, so I turned it in a hair and I hit the rev limiter, I thought it was unlimited. I left it there and made aprox 15 cuts and checked the plug. I think it looks good, nice and brown. I'm going to put a kit in the oem carb and see if it can do better. I'm also going to swap out the coil.

At least you know that it isn’t the porting, and you know exactly where to focus now

 

[Stump Shot]

I had a few minutes this morning so I changed out the carb to a Zama clone carb, they look alot smaller than the HD 12. At one turn out on the high side it was turning 13,800, so I turned it in a hair and I hit the rev limiter, I thought it was unlimited. I left it there and made aprox 15 cuts and checked the plug. I think it looks good, nice and brown. I'm going to put a kit in the oem carb and see if it can do better. I'm also going to swap out the coil.

The coil you seek is black in color, if blue is limited. The rpm limit will be printed on the side of the blue coil.

 

[BGE541]

The coil you seek is black in color, if blue is limited. The rpm limit will be printed on the side of the blue coil.

eBay for the unlimited coil they are inexpensive and hold up well.

 

[Ronie]

I have a couple of 350 coils. I think they will work if the coil wire is long enough.

 

[srcarr52]

I have a couple of 350 coils. I think they will work if the coil wire is long enough.

You can unscrew the plug wire out of the coils and swap them over.

Don't be too focused on free speed RPM, RPM in the cut is what really matters. A lot of saws I build may turn 13.5k free, but turn 12.5k in the cut.

 

[Nutball]

No air filter cover on a Husqy doesn't sound like a good idea because it doesn't get the air injection, so it will run with a different tune. My... (wait a minute) I wonder if the air injection setup even works because the air filter cover screws vibrated out of my 2188 while I was cutting and it leaned so far it stalled.

 

[Ronie]

I'd like to thank everyone for there help. I'm going to keep trying to inprove

You can unscrew the plug wire out of the coils and swap them over.

Don't be too focused on free speed RPM, RPM in the cut is what really matters. A lot of saws I build may turn 13.5k free, but turn 12.5k in the cut.

Thanks for the info. I was wondering if the wire was screwed in or glued. Once I get it right I'll tune it in wood for the fastest speed. I have a couple of xtorq 2166 saws that are set around 13,200 but they hold the rpm in wood, I love them saws but I want something a little faster. Once I get this porting down I have a few oem cylinders I'd like to do.

 

[Ronie]

Can someone tell me where you list some of the saws you have? I'm not sure where to list them.

 

[srcarr52]

Can someone tell me where you list some of the saws you have? I'm not sure where to list them.

What do you mean by "list"?

Some people list all their saws in their signature, which shows at the bottom of their posts. I do not as it's too much effort to maintain my constantly in flux heard. The signatures only shows up in web browsers, people using apps like Tapatalk will not see them.

You can edit your signature through your profile dashboard.

 

[Ronie]

What do you mean by "list"?

Some people list all their saws in their signature, which shows at the bottom of their posts. I do not as it's too much effort to maintain my constantly in flux heard. The signatures only shows up in web browsers, people using apps like Tapatalk will not see them.

You can edit your signature through your profile dashboard.

I don't want them popping up on every post. I guess I can put them in the about you section and if someone is curious about what I have they can see them there. Thanks

 

[drf256]

Set RPM in the wood. Don’t be overly concerned with free rpm and make sure the saw is 4 stroking when it not under load.

Make saw super fat and then cut. Slowly adjust H needle so that the the saw is clean under load and burbles when you lift it and reduce load.

As long as it’s clean in the cut and burbling out of it, it’s a safe tune. Look at the tach and start leaning it to point where rpm in wood starts to drop, then richen it a bit again.

Once you port a saw, the safe rpm is anyone’s guess. Limited coils make it hard to hear tune, but generally the saw won’t exceed the limited rpm in wood.

Most saws make more power fatter if they are under a good load. You need fuel to make power, energy is never destroyed it just changes forms. So if you ain’t burning fuel, you ain’t making power. Tune cutting wood is very different than in a race cant. The saw isn’t building up the same heat.

I run my saws on the fat side for work, because that is all I use saws for. I don’t care if I make it through a 36” round 2 seconds faster, I’d rather not spend the time I saved replacing a piston and cylinder.

 

[Ronie]

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to keep working on this until I get it right. I have a little time today so I'm going to get the oem carb rebuilt and try an get a good tune. Hopefully I can get it before I'm out of wood.

 

[Deets066]

Just watched the last vid. Sounds like you need bout a 1/4 - 1/2 turn more on the L screw. Big muffler mods like that always seem to like a lot of fuel on the bottom end.

 

[Ronie]

Just watched the last vid. Sounds like you need bout a 1/4 - 1/2 turn more on the L screw. Big muffler mods like that always seem to like a lot of fuel on the bottom end.

When I get the other carb on today I'll make sure I pay better attention to the low side. I'll be the first to admit I'm not the best at tuning a carb, I have a little hearing loss and it makes it little difficult.

 

[Ronie]

I'd like to thank everyone who has taken the time to help me out. I'm also a member on the other site and have been only posting over there. I think I would be a lot farther ahead if I had posted over here sooner.

 

[BGE541]

I had a few minutes this morning so I changed out the carb to a Zama clone carb, they look alot smaller than the HD 12. At one turn out on the high side it was turning 13,800, so I turned it in a hair and I hit the rev limiter, I thought it was unlimited. I left it there and made aprox 15 cuts and checked the plug. I think it looks good, nice and brown. I'm going to put a kit in the oem carb and see if it can do better. I'm also going to swap out the coil.

Not to repeat to much of what’s been said but this video is a good chance to learn through hearing the sounds the saw makes...

On the top end no burble which means you should fatten up 1/2 turn and lean out from their.

On the bottom after the cut your saw hunts for idle a bit, kinda like you’re running out of fuel because to your saw it’s the same issue (less fuel more air RPM increase).

I would start but getting it tuned right with the ignition advance and go from their your numbers look good and saw sounds pretty good as it is. If you are all about cutting speed try a 8 pin sprocket and work on your chain sharpening skills IMHO.

 

[drf256]

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to keep working on this until I get it right. I have a little time today so I'm going to get the oem carb rebuilt and try an get a good tune. Hopefully I can get it before I'm out of wood.

You have the right attitude, you strive to get better.

So many come here cocky, ask questions, and act like know-it-alls.

Kudos bud. You got the bug.

This IS the site for information and constructive criticism.

 

[srcarr52]

I'd like to thank everyone who has taken the time to help me out. I'm also a member on the other site and have been only posting over there. I think I would be a lot farther ahead if I had posted over here sooner.

We are all AS refugees here.

On your original carb, if it is still fat with only 1/2 turn out on the high side then you have a metering system issue. Check these typical culprits.

*Lever set too high and holding the needle open.
*Diaphragm is old and stiff.
*Needle is not sealing.
*Spring is too weak or lever bent such that the pop off pressure isn't enough.

 

[Nutball]

From the 14,000rpm video I got 13,550rpm, seemed to like cutting roughly around 10,750 +-300, you seemed to try holding it back to around 11,750. I try to make each test cut with a different pressure, then after finding the fastest cutting RPM in that particular wood, I will make a few more cuts at that rpm to try to get the fastest cut overall. Hardwood (oak, ash...) cuts faster at lower rpm, softwood (silver maple, pine, poplar) withstands cutting fast at high rpm.

 

[Ronie]

I changed the coil, advanced the timing and rebuilt the carb this morning. The needle wasn't sealing and it was set to high. I put it on the saw and started out at 1 1/2 turns out and ended up around 1 turn out on the high, It ran better with the with the Zama clone. So I thought I'd give a 385 carb a try. I ended up at 2 turns out on the high and 13,340 wot. Yet again it cut the fastest with the smallest carb, the Zama clone. I think I'm going to open up the exhaust and intake to 65% on the oem cylinder I have, gasket match it and put it on this saw. I can always go back in and make some changes as I get a better handle on porting, I maybe moving a little to fast. I have an ugly 365 for a test saw and a couple of Farmertec cylinders I can practice on. I've learned a lot and will try to apply that knowledge to the next one.