First post, first kit saw

[MustangMike]

Thanks for all the info, unfortunately I don't have time to go through it all, so please entertain my questions/comments:

What problems did you have with the Cross P+C, I generally have had good luck with them (after chamfering all surfaces)

I have not had a problem with the decomps, but I pop the top and glue w/PL Premium before I use them.

I run AMSOIL Saber at 40:1, and lubrication is VG.

I like how your guy on the landing prevents cutting through rocks/mud. I do something similar. I'll cut 3/4 through my logs (for fire wood), then roll them with the timber jack. Now the dirty side is up, so I insert my bar in the cut and finish the cut "up" to kick dirt and rocks out and not trap them between the chain and the wood.

Some of the Cross P+C perform very well right out of the box w/base gasket delete.

 

[I Know Something]

I believe he stated in a video that it was a cylinder alignment issue. The bore was slightly off center from what I understood.

 

[afleetcommand]

What problems did you have with the Cross P+C, I generally have had good luck with them (after chamfering all surfaces)


Some of the Cross P+C perform very well right out of the box w/base gasket delete.

I suspect most are just fine, AND they do run strong! ( Have one early on in one of my cookie video's ) I had a few "anomalies" when they went to the testing program I have, therefor quit using them as I had no such anomalies with the Hyway's or even the 54mm Farmer Tech's. Did have some terrible 56mm Farmertec's, plating was thin and the intake was way off center to the point there was break through. Just don't have time to go for strike three. I would suggest to those considering options to listen to those who are doing the types of things you most likely are going to with your saws..

 

[afleetcommand]

And this top end is a great bolt on performance upgrade.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hyway-Modi...191871?hash=item23a2cce33f:g:2eYAAOSwWe1bGy8H

 

[Kalamojakka]

Here's a real time update to the build. I keep a pretty full schedule and save this project for breaks.

I did remove the case bearing seals and flush some shavings out of them, as others have said. The bearings themselves seem fine, so I will keep them and put OEM seals on them. I heated the flywheel side and it popped in surprisingly easily. I heated the other side and it didn't pop in, but the six case bolts reached the other side and easily tightened to snug. A few taps with the hammer centered the crank in the case. The crank spins beautifully. Used a thin layer of gasket maker on both sides of the actual gasket, as well as on the case bolts.

 

[I Know Something]

Good job. They are fun. Enjoy the journey.

 

[Kalamojakka]

Had a rainy day, so I spent a little time in the shop. I'm pleased with how the project is going. So far, I am using all farmertec, except the OEM gaskets and bearing seals. I just clipped the ears off the circlips and used them. Also, I couldn't see anything visibly wrong with the wrist pin and bearing, so I popped the farmertec ones in. We shall see if I come to regret that decision!

 

[Absolution]

Had a rainy day, so I spent a little time in the shop. I'm pleased with how the project is going. So far, I am using all farmertec, except the OEM gaskets and bearing seals. I just clipped the ears off the circlips and used them. Also, I couldn't see anything visibly wrong with the wrist pin and bearing, so I popped the farmertec ones in. We shall see if I come to regret that decision!

I had a blue saw but clips held up really good, with over 7 gallons worth of fuel. so I think you'll be okay with them.

 

[Kalamojakka]

It turns out, that the intake manifold boot has a handy little slit in it, so I emailed service@huztl.net with a photo and description. We shall see how they respond.

Oh, and I asked my local saw shop what they'd charge for an OEM boot. It was just shy of $50!

 

[MustangMike]

I know they are not the same quality as OEM, but I'm glad the AM parts are out there … there would be a lot fewer running saws if they were not!

 

[Absolution]

It turns out, that the intake manifold boot has a handy little slit in it, so I emailed service@huztl.net with a photo and description. We shall see how they respond.

Oh, and I asked my local saw shop what they'd charge for an OEM boot. It was just shy of $50!

Duct tape.

 

[MustangMike]

AM ones are too cheap to bother with that, I don't think the tape would hold.

 

[Absolution]

AM ones are too cheap to bother with that, I don't think the tape would hold.

I was joking.. mostly

If there's anything red green taught me is that duct tape fixes everything.

 

[MustangMike]

I figured you were … but …

Duct tape has a million uses, but I have had trouble with it sealing things (like when you want to vac test a saw). I find rubber bike tire tube works much better.

 

[MG porting]

It turns out, that the intake manifold boot has a handy little slit in it, so I emailed service@huztl.net with a photo and description. We shall see how they respond.

Oh, and I asked my local saw shop what they'd charge for an OEM boot. It was just shy of $50!

Order a stens intake boot there good and don't cost a arm or a leg.

 

[MustangMike]

Source???

 

[MG porting]

Source???

eBay or you're Napa dealer if there as cool as mine lol.

 

[Kalamojakka]

So, huztl have me a whopping $3 credit towards my next purchase. I guess I'll be finding a stens rather than trying another huztl.

 

[Kalamojakka]

Elementary question here: where does this go?

 

[Absolution]

Elementary question here: where does this go?

Under muffler it is a heat shield.