High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

First post, first kit saw

Kalamojakka

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Hi ope people. I'm new here. I found the forum when looking for info on 660 builds. I was tickled pink upon learning of these saw kits and couldn't do other than order one forthwith. It came yesterday (9 days from huztl.net). I didn't order any other AM or OEM parts with it, thinking I'd rather examine what comes in the kit before spending any more money on it. A gasket arrived torn, and the gasket kit might be the most oft recommended OEM replacement on here, so that was a no brainier. Plus it's a pitiful thing to have fail, if it is to fail.

Now the question: in your vast experience, is there any other part/s that would be pitiful to need to replace later, because I didn't just start with OEM?
 
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Spladle160

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MustangMike

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I always use OEM piston pin bearing (only $10 at your dealer), piston pin clips, and the Stihl Elastostart pull rope/handle will have a better feel and make your recoil starter last longer (it has built in cushion).

I used the Cross P+C on all my 660 builds, but if I were using the jug that comes in the kit I would get a Meteor piston (about $40 on Ebay). They come with Caber rings, which are top notch.

Always check the ports and make sure the edges are chamfered, you don't want to hang a ring. I also always lube the control lever and recoil with Fluid Film, makes them work much better.

Always flush the case bearings and crank bearing with WD-40, they are often shipped with grit in them that will ruin them if not removed.

Usually you have to modify the chain adjusters to get them to work right. Sometimes I chuck the large gear in a drill and file it down a bit, and sometimes it needs a washer under it for proper alignment (and don't forget that rubber O ring that goes in there, and lube it all).

If you ever wanted to learn saw porting, now is a good time … they will run much better properly ported.

Welcome to the site, and best of luck with your build. I have done 6 of these so far, so feel free to ask any questions. My most recent one (with a ported Cross P+C runs very strong).
 

Kalamojakka

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Thanks all! I'll be building it slowly and lurking around forums and videos the whole way, as I've never done this before, and have less mechanical experience than most on here. I've found Matthew Olson's and donyboy73's videos particularly useful. I will take tips seriously. It's a pile of fun!
 

Kalamojakka

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Yup, I'm planning to freeze the crank and heat the case. If it doesn't work, well, I guess I'll be back to waiting for more mail to arrive.
 

MustangMike

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I don't bother freezing the crank … can add condensation. I do the flywheel side first, which is always easier, heat the bearing then just tap the crank to the right place. Make sure the rod is lined up with the opening! I place 2 pieces of 2X wood under the case to give the crank room to drop.

The other side often has a nylon race in the bearing, so don't over heat it, or you will ruin it. 30-40 seconds with my heat gun on Hi (a HF model). Make sure you insert the gasket and lube all bearing and seal surfaces. As soon as the case locates on the pins, it usually freezes, so I start the screws (all of them, a little at a time) and tap the case a bit if it starts to hang up. I just keep doing a "torque sequence" with my cordless drill gun, set on a very light setting, again, and again and again, etc till it is all the way down.

Then, tap the crank back and forth a few times to get it to spin freely. Sometimes I need to replace that second seal, you will know when you look at it (2 of 6 times).

Good Luck.
 

MustangMike

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By the way, I always use the HD Loctite on most bolts … first to lubricate the dry hole, and secondly to preclude them from vibrating loose. Do it once, do it right.
 

Wonkydonkey

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Sorry, I didn’t notice we were all ready here. I guess it’s just automatic thing (are we nearly there yet, lol...)

I was just hoping/pushing for a new build thread ;) and Just Because It was so cool to wake up and read pages of peeps building China 660's...

Cheers..
 

I Know Something

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First off. @afleetcommand has case assembly tools he can make for you that are worth the money.

Second. Order bearing and seals from Farmertec. You may be replacing the installed ones because of debris that will probably come in them. Its metal shavings in them from the cases being milled.

Third. The OEM parts your going to want to look into (in my experience. It will vary).
1138 664 2400 stud bolt. The ones that come with are soft and strip out just tightening them the first time.
1122 122 6602 collor screw. For the carb. Same reason.
1127 141 8600 Impulse hose. Both of mine blew off causing problems.
1122 182 0902 switch shaft. The included one is super flexable making improper operation and will break from bending to much.
1122 185 0400 Rope rotor and 1124 195 7200 pawl. The included wont last long.
1122 029 2301 .5mm base gasket. Neither of mine are ported and it's just a half mm more squish.
1122 029 2306 1mm base gasket. If you need it.

Fourth.
20190527_221802.jpg
Your going to probably want this. It's for your chain tensioner. In the end of the shaft with the gear.


A video there for advice for how to make that work. Also, pay attention to how the metal cap fits over the tentioner assembly. The case and cap may need to be ground on to fit properly.
 

MustangMike

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I have shimmed some of them with .010 flashing material (only need 180*), and sometimes put modified washers under the large gear to get the alignment right.

I'm not sure if they are consistent enough that each one will work with the same fix. I just play with em till I get them to work.
 

MustangMike

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I have done 6 - 660 kits and always use OEM piston pin bearing, and flush all of the other bearings with WD-40 before I rotate them, and I have yet to have a bad baring other than the piston pin one. Ruined 2 PTO side seals during installation, but the only tools I use are a heat gun and a hammer.

I put Loctite on all bolts, partly to lube them, and have only had to replace one intake collar bolt after putting it on and off a few times (but the OEM ones are much better). I have not had any problems with any other bolts, or the impulse hoses.

Control levers are flimsy, but if you lubricate them with Fluid Film I have not had any fail to work (except no high idle).

I have had rotors and pawls fail on the 440s, but not on the 660. I also lube them with Fluid Film and replace the rope/handle with OEM Elastostart.

With the Cross P+C, I delete the base gasket.
 

afleetcommand

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Have evolved a build recipe over a few years, here are three of the "development" saws. Actually have more out with a couple of pro loggers. And all are doing well.....now. :) BUT this is representative of their lives.... Wonder if all of those cookies saws combined have as much run time as ONE of these...:)

 
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afleetcommand

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But to the OP, here is a list of parts that I had to either modify or replace on MOST ( not all ) to get them reliable:
Bar studs and nuts ( too soft for sustained use, go OEM )
Shim ( a modification ) the chain adjuster
Handle Bar ( too soft )
Choke and trigger controls....to OEM ALL three. Needed to get a "high idle" on some NOT all!
Tweak carbs to get throttle plate to shut....or just replace to Walbro's
Decomp to a better Stihl or Husqvarna OEM
Clutch, throws springs so put a HyWay clutch on all of them.
Chain Brake spring, handle ( too soft ) and occasionally the linkage....
Fuel and Pulse lines. (OEM)
O-rings on the fuel and bar oil caps...
I had NO issues with Hustle bearings and seals....none. They last, cases are good too.
I would pick a OEM Meteor or HyWay top end option over the other "non" Huztl AM's every time. Reason is buried in the video series...pure empirical data. The kind you can only get with sustained heavy use by multiple pro level folks.

Finally, and this is important to the "pro", a muffler from HyWay with the spark arrestor

And I would recommend many start with a "Big Blue" g660 :)

Documented most of the highs and lows from 2015 to 2018 on YouTube, but not in a nice orderly way. Just real time as it happened.
Half way through this video I cover a summation of the 660 experience:

 
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